Need some expert confirmation

joseywales2

New Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2014
Changing valve springs and I found several threads, documents, and YouTube videos that show how to do it (attached). However, most videos/directions are about 86-87 GN which looks like there are less things over the valve cover.

The directions are great for the drivers side, but no one shows the passenger side. My questions are this:

1) Do you need to remove the turbo downpipes or the whole turbo?
2) Will I need new gaskets for the turbo? (I have new gaskets for the head covers)
3) What is the easiest way to do the passenger side valve springs?

I plan on doing a head on with compressed air
 

Attachments

  • Changing Valve Springs With Heads On.pdf
    338.5 KB · Views: 64
Before I open up a can of worms tell us why your doing this repair, what's wrong with your car??? Symptoms will help you get a better answer on where to go from here
 
The car sat for 5 years before I got it (106K miles on it) . It still started when I bought it, but the heavy blue smoke came from the exhaust. Understandably the car runs rough and it could be many other issues. According to the repair records that came with the car the valve seals had never been replaced. I changed the spark plugs and replaced the original wires with MSD low resistance wires.

Reading some materials on 84 GNs, one of the first things people do is change the valve springs. Recommended comp cam 203/203 springs. So I figure if I had to change the valve seals I would put on heavier springs (valve spring currently are original).

Not a good idea?
 
I'd check the turbo seal first. The valve guides would haveta be almost nonexistent for it to blow "heavy smoke". Bad valve guides usually present themselves by a large puff on startup, then light smoke at idle. Also, if the car is factory (which it sounds like it is...) there won't be any positive valve seals on the exhaust valves....only in the intake valves. The exhaust valves have a "scraper" on the stem that keeps the oil out of the combustion chamber.
 
I'd check the turbo seal first. The valve guides would haveta be almost nonexistent for it to blow "heavy smoke". Bad valve guides usually present themselves by a large puff on startup, then light smoke at idle. Also, if the car is factory (which it sounds like it is...) there won't be any positive valve seals on the exhaust valves....only in the intake valves. The exhaust valves have a "scraper" on the stem that keeps the oil out of the combustion chamber.
OK I'll check those first, thanks for the info.
 
Found out the turbo was rebuilt just before it was sold to me. The turbo seal looks good.

Before I remove the turbo down pipes and change the springs and valve seals, is that the best way?
 
Honestly bro before you do all that work and it's still smoking check your cam sensor make sure it's set properly you may be on a wild goose chase fix the easy to reach and obvious problems
 
Found out the turbo was rebuilt just before it was sold to me. The turbo seal looks good.

Before I remove the turbo down pipes and change the springs and valve seals, is that the best way?
Just because its new....doesn't mean it's good....(been down that road before) Check inside the throttle body and the exhaust wheel....if either one is wet with oil....then you'll know for sure.
 
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