Need new valve springs what ones should i get?

gnkid1987

Member
Joined
May 18, 2004
i have an 87 GN that i owned for about 10 years and i never changed the valve springs yet. i have a pt51 turbo, aly control kit, 55# injectors and the usual upgrades. i feel that its beyond the time to change th valve springs car feels a little sluggish on the top end. what springs and where should i get them from? and any tips while changing them would be awesome

thanks guys
ray
 
Alot of people upgrade to the 100lb valve springs, im in the same boat as u so im thinkn about upgrading myself, since i have my heads off due to a head gasket issue! Sigh
 
i got a set of lunati from summit racing they were for a v8 so i have a few extra springs. and was under 100$
 
I've got some 980's sitting on the shelf with the pressure @ height data to get correct pressures if interested. All you need to do is install them at the heights i have on the data sheet that comes with the springs.
 
be careful, 100 lbs or more could wipe the cam without using an additive or coated cam, if your just using straight oil dont go past 98o-'s
 
be careful, 100 lbs or more could wipe the cam without using an additive or coated cam, if your just using straight oil dont go past 98o-'s

980 springs will be fine if installed correctly like bison mentioned, however if your running a flat tappet cam it's advised that you use ZDDP additive in your oil. Even running stock springs without ZDDP can cause a flat tappet camshaft to fail.


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exactly what are 980's ?? Are they a little less lbs than 100lb springs? and what brand is best in the 980's??
 
980 is a partial part number. They are comp cams springs, part # 980-12. These spring are rated at 91lbs @1.7 installed height.
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If your running a stock cam the 980's will work fine. Set them at 1.7 installed height, and use ZDDP additive.


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ok, i was told to step up to the 100lb springs but the 980's seem close enuf dont u think? Yes cam is stock.. Any idea what they cost?
 
You don't need 100lb springs with a stock cam. I'm sure the more seasoned guys will agree. Considering your stock springs are probably around 50-60 seat pressure at this point, you will be doing well with 980's and the stock camshaft.


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I've seen them as low as $40-45 dollars. I got a nice deal on mine from another board member.


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Ok yeah i have 120,000 on my cam. Should be a noticible diffrence with a valve job, new springs & a little port work dont u think?? i use the brad penn race oil that has the zdpp already added in.
 
Just put a set of 980's on and it sharpen the car right up, pulls hard right thru the RPM range now. Make sure the install height is as close as u can get it . It was recommended to me by racers in the know to heat cycle the springs three or four times after there installed, prolongs the life of the spring :)
 
How do you heat cycle a spring? Drive the car?


Put it in the oven?

This is a goofy suggestion. The springs are heat-treated and tempered at the factory (that's what makes them springs, as opposed to a coil of wire that crushes the first time you compress it), and you need to get steel a lot hotter than you'll find on top of a head to do anything to the metal.
 
When I opened my new PAC springs (which I suspect might be comp craps) they had a 'scaley' finish. I measured them with a spring tester and threw them in a vibratory polisher for about an hour. When I pulled them out, they were silky smooth and measured the same on the Rimac machine.

After that I threw them in my engine and used them just like they're used today.

I've never heard of a 'break in procedure' for valvesprings before. If they have to go through any kinds of cycles to find their happy place, everybody would be running around with incorrect poundages.
 
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