Need help

[Pete Revenidis]

Hi guy's having boost issue again when I bought the car back in march it was over boosting so I turned it down to 15psi and all was good till last night went to some street racing in Philly and caught a race with 2 Evo's I did one run with dump closed and boost was fine at 15 but crazy black smoke when I got on it fuel press. is set at 40. Then I open the dump it is electronic and when I got on it the boost spiked to 21 I back off and got a backfire thru the exhaust. then I closed it and it was fine again at 15 Why would the dump open cause it to spike like that????????? And about the black smoke is my fuel press. to high???
I also want to do plugs this weekend what is a good recommended plug for it.

 

[theCATman]

What muffler(s) ??

A seriously chitty, restrctive exhaust will do just that.

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Exhaust is restrictive. Turbo cars need a thru design muffler. My car has no spike at all with SLP exhaust.

 

[Pete Revenidis]

2.5 test pipe back with flowmasters but its fine thru the mufflers it spiked when I opened the dump

 

[theCATman]

2.5 test pipe back with flowmasters but its fine thru the mufflers it spiked when I opened the dump

EXACTLY the results you will get with a shitty exhaust.

Flowmaster suck donkey balls on a turbo car. Get rid of them ASAP if your budget allows. Get Magnaflow,Hooker, or SLP muffler(s)

The muffler(s) are so restrictive (poor flowing) that when you open the dump, there is ZERO resistance & the boost goes up.

Boost numbers or PSI is only a measurement of restriction. EXAMPLE: say you need to run 25 PSI to achieve 400 HP thru restrictive exhaust, cut the exhaust off & now it may only take 20 PSI to make the same power. Again, boost is only a measurement of restriction.

I put an electric cutout on my car this spring. I have ZERO PSI difference open vs closed. Says alot for my Hooker Aero muffler.

 

[mgmshar]

What you are describing makes perfect sense if your exhaust system is restrictive and you are running stock boost control. Read this thread, pay particular attention to Post #18.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/index.php?posts/3216281

I'm guessing you are running a stock MAF? Therefore, it's maxed out when you are running any significant boost. Therefore, your chip is set up to fuel a specific amount for a specific boost level. If you run lower than the design boost, it will be rich - might explain the black smoke at 15 psi. If you run higher than the design boost, it will run lean, which will lead to knock, spark retard, popping, and eventually a blown head gasket if you keep doing it.

Maybe this will help.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Pete Revenidis]

I cant turn the boost down anymore I have the wastegate rod all the way out and yes have the stock MAF and boost controller so other than change the mufflers what do I do about controlling the boost with the dump open. The shop that had done the setup on the car said they had it set up to run at 18psi but when I bought it it was knocking at 18 so I turned it down.

 

[Pete Revenidis]

What you are describing makes perfect sense if your exhaust system is restrictive and you are running stock boost control. Read this thread, pay particular attention to Post #18.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/index.php?posts/3216281

I'm guessing you are running a stock MAF? Therefore, it's maxed out when you are running any significant boost. Therefore, your chip is set up to fuel a specific amount for a specific boost level. If you run lower than the design boost, it will be rich - might explain the black smoke at 15 psi. If you run higher than the design boost, it will run lean, which will lead to knock, spark retard, popping, and eventually a blown head gasket if you keep doing it.

Maybe this will help.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Read the post so I need to get a better boost controller

 

[aminga]

I cant turn the boost down anymore I have the wastegate rod all the way out and yes have the stock MAF and boost controller so other than change the mufflers what do I do about controlling the boost with the dump open. The shop that had done the setup on the car said they had it set up to run at 18psi but when I bought it it was knocking at 18 so I turned it down.

It may be a HD actuator that runs at a nimimum of 18 PSI. A stock one should allow you to turn it down to 12

 

[mgmshar]

For what it's worth, I'm currently running a simple check valve type boost controller that I bought off eBay many years ago. RJC sells a similar one. The good news is that boost remains very consistent regardless of exhaust back pressure, spool up is very fast, and they are cheap. The bad news is that the boost is fixed in all gears and can't be changed without getting out of the car and popping the hood. RJC's might mount in the car, can't remember.

I've got a HD actuator on my car, and I can turn the boost down to about 10 PSI or so with the check valve. I can also turn it up to at least 24 psi when desired.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Pete Revenidis]

For what it's worth, I'm currently running a simple check valve type boost controller that I bought off eBay many years ago. RJC sells a similar one. The good news is that boost remains very consistent regardless of exhaust back pressure, spool up is very fast, and they are cheap. The bad news is that the boost is fixed in all gears and can't be changed without getting out of the car and popping the hood. RJC's might mount in the car, can't remember.

I've got a HD actuator on my car, and I can turn the boost down to about 10 PSI or so with the check valve. I can also turn it up to at least 24 psi when desired.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Thanks Mike I will order one tonight I was going to get the TT chip and 60lb injectors also I would like to get into the 11's is it possible with out Alky???? on 93 oct Also want to do plugs this weekend what type are you using Thanks Pete

 

[earlbrown]

It sounds like you uncorked the exhaust and overboosted the car.

It would be best to avoid doing that again. If you were making some real horsepower at the time, you'd be pulling the engine and swiping debit cards.

 

[earlbrown]

Read the post so I need to get a better boost controller

No. You need to get rid of any gimmicks you can and make the car run right first. Then slowly start adding stuff. If you're overboosting, you don't need anything that raises the boost level.

 

[Pete Revenidis]

No. You need to get rid of any gimmicks you can and make the car run right first. Then slowly start adding stuff. If you're overboosting, you don't need anything that raises the boost level.

Thru the mufflers the car runs good steady at 15psi a little creep in 4th to about 17 makes great power pulls strong and steady. But when I open the dump last night it hit 21psi this was the first time it did it I have opened it before and didn't have a problem it was at 15psi. I dont want to raise the boost I am trying to keep it under control and apparently the factory controller wont do it

 

[TurboBuRick]

For the heck of it check your hoses to the boost control and wastegate actuator.

RL

 

[Pete Revenidis]

For the heck of it check your hoses to the boost control and wastegate actuator.

RL

will do

 

[mgmshar]

One step at a time here. These cars are finicky and changes need to be made one at a time followed by confirmation that it worked OK.

I'm going to disagree with Earl here and say that you need to get the boost to be consistent whether you are running dump open or closed. So, I am thinking that a check valve type boost controller would be a good and cheap (by Buick standards) addition. Install it and make sure that the boost is the same whether you have the dump open or closed. If you have a decent chip, you should be able to run about 17 +/-1 PSI of boost WITH NO KNOCK. After you install the boost controller, start with it set to a low boost number (say 14 or 15 psi) and verify that it doesn't change with the dump open or closed. Then, slowly adjust it to increase boost, again confirming that it doesn't change with the dump open or closed. As soon as you see any knock, back off a PSI or two to be safe. Like I said, with good 93 octane gas and a decent chip, you should be around 17 psi give or take.

EDIT: Of course, check all of the hoses going to the wastegate solenoid, actuator, etc. first. Good call there. Although, the fact that boost changes with the dump open or closed makes me think the issue is somewhere else.

Once you get to this point and things are running consistently and reliably, then you can try more upgrades. First thing I would do is a different exhaust behind the downpipe, because your current exhaust with Flowmasters is apparently choking your dump-closed performance. Next would be injectors and chip, since your 36-lbers are probably going to be getting pushed to their limits if you run anything more than about 17 or 18 psi. Regarding spark plugs, I've been running NGK UR5's at a slightly tighter than stock gap for years.

With your combo, the only way you are going to see 11's is with alky or racing fuel, which will allow you to run over 20 psi of boost. Not going to get to 11's with 93-octane and your turbo/stock engine. See my signature to get an idea of what it took to get me deep into the 11's with a TA49 (basically the same as your TE44) and stock engine. You will also need good traction - a set of drag radials or slicks - to get there. But, remember, one step at a time. Get the boost under control first. Take your time, one step at a time. Make sure the car is running well between each step. Trust us on this.

Good Luck,

 

[Pete Revenidis]

One step at a time here. These cars are finicky and changes need to be made one at a time followed by confirmation that it worked OK.

I'm going to disagree with Earl here and say that you need to get the boost to be consistent whether you are running dump open or closed. So, I am thinking that a check valve type boost controller would be a good and cheap (by Buick standards) addition. Install it and make sure that the boost is the same whether you have the dump open or closed. If you have a decent chip, you should be able to run about 17 +/-1 PSI of boost WITH NO KNOCK. After you install the boost controller, start with it set to a low boost number (say 14 or 15 psi) and verify that it doesn't change with the dump open or closed. Then, slowly adjust it to increase boost, again confirming that it doesn't change with the dump open or closed. As soon as you see any knock, back off a PSI or two to be safe. Like I said, with good 93 octane gas and a decent chip, you should be around 17 psi give or take.

EDIT: Of course, check all of the hoses going to the wastegate solenoid, actuator, etc. first. Good call there. Although, the fact that boost changes with the dump open or closed makes me think the issue is somewhere else.

Once you get to this point and things are running consistently and reliably, then you can try more upgrades. First thing I would do is a different exhaust behind the downpipe, because your current exhaust with Flowmasters is apparently choking your dump-closed performance. Next would be injectors and chip, since your 36-lbers are probably going to be getting pushed to their limits if you run anything more than about 17 or 18 psi. Regarding spark plugs, I've been running NGK UR5's at a slightly tighter than stock gap for years.

With your combo, the only way you are going to see 11's is with alky or racing fuel, which will allow you to run over 20 psi of boost. Not going to get to 11's with 93-octane and your turbo/stock engine. See my signature to get an idea of what it took to get me deep into the 11's with a TA49 (basically the same as your TE44) and stock engine. You will also need good traction - a set of drag radials or slicks - to get there. But, remember, one step at a time. Get the boost under control first. Take your time, one step at a time. Make sure the car is running well between each step. Trust us on this.

Good Luck,

Mike will do. I do want to make sure everything is in order and consistent. I have been building BMW race cars for years and triple check all my work and have never had any major mishaps with any of my cars. Just a little new to the Buick world so it never hurts to ask others who have gone thru the trial and error already and know better. I have a set of Magnaflows I can swap out this weekend I bought for another project that I didnt use.
What is the Tin-Man CAI and CAS V2 on your signiture ??
Again new to some of the lingo too

 

[earlbrown]

Thru the mufflers the car runs good steady at 15psi a little creep in 4th to about 17 makes great power pulls strong and steady. But when I open the dump last night it hit 21psi this was the first time it did it I have opened it before and didn't have a problem it was at 15psi. I dont want to raise the boost I am trying to keep it under control and apparently the factory controller wont do it

It's not the factory controller that's not holding your boost steady. You've got your boost set higher than the engine can tolerate and the corked up exhaust is lowering down to a manageable level. Opening the dump allowed the turbo to catch it's breath.

If you haven't replaced all the hoses on the wastegate circuit, do it yesterday and make sure to safety wire or zip tie them. Those things have taken out many a buick v6 by venting signal.

There's many many people that run a plain ole factory wastegates and hold boost just fine. I've got a deep breathing 4.2 with a huge ass cam and a stock wastegate setup. You might just need to port the wastegate hole to allow more exhaust energy around the exhaust wheel.



Then again don't get me wrong, I love destruction testing. I guess it's the romantic in me.

 

[Phoneguy]

With the right mufflers you wont need to open the dump...unless you like the noise...

Bryan