need audio setup ideas

BKLYN2FLORIDA

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Joined
Jun 10, 2009
im eventually want to install a nice audio set-up, but nothing too crazy loud, maybe more fidelity and great acustics.
i remember growing up the regals, carlos, etc used to make a horrible base sound from the trunk. (plang plang plant), thinking they were cool...lol
im looking for ideas to install something in the trunk but not a box that will take the who trunk. maybe 12 inch woofer set-up, medium sized amp.
please post ur ideas and photos.
i know its hard to get great audio with the rear seat blocking the trunk, and little space where the OE speakers go.
thanks
 
There used to be a GN in car audio competition. I think it belonged to a guy named Richard Clark. Six speakers and championship winning sound and install.

Im looking to redo the trunk in my car as well.
 
There have been several actually, Richard Clarks' is the most well known becuase it was utterly unbeatable - it's one of the best sounding stereo systems, car or home, that I've ever head.

The speaker works car was a masterpiece of engineering, using waveguides horns for mids and treble under the dash, a pair of musical instrument speakers for mid-bass in the rear side panels, and 15" sub woofers in the trunk in an aperiodic enclosure.

It's probably a half-million dollar investment considering the time and labor of all the people that were involved over the cars development., maybe a million, who knows?

Here's the original car before Clark got to work on it.
SpeakerWorks/USD Audio Install Gallery

A very recent world champ setup was done with a more traditional setup, consisting of component speakers in the kick panels and a traditional box.
 
Basic and effective. HTH
 

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remove the rear speakers and put them in the rear door panel card inserts. build a single 12 or 10'' 4th order bandpass porting up through the rear package tray. then give me the specs so I can build mine ;) you won't have ANY rattle in the trunk since it'll be sealed off
 
remove the rear speakers and put them in the rear door panel card inserts. build a single 12 or 10'' 4th order bandpass porting up through the rear package tray. then give me the specs so I can build mine ;) you won't have ANY rattle in the trunk since it'll be sealed off
That's actually a pretty goood idea.
 
That's actually a pretty goood idea.

remove the rear speakers and put them in the rear door panel card inserts. build a single 12 or 10'' 4th order bandpass porting up through the rear package tray. then give me the specs so I can build mine ;) you won't have ANY rattle in the trunk since it'll be sealed off

In theory this should be great, but I've found G-body's a BEAR to deal with doing this.

It seems that they really like having a woofer fired backwards towards the trunk, in as efficient of a box as possible. I'm designing a 13" JL enclosure that I want to be MAPD (multi-enclosure, aperiodic, progressively dampened) but tuning it will require a LOT of time and I dont have that right now.

Again, it's a GREAT idea, it just never sounds as good as planned as I have tried it half a dozen times.
 
"I'm designing a 13" JL enclosure that I want to be MAPD (multi-enclosure, aperiodic, progressively dampened)"

Care to elaborate on this a little? I have done a few multi chamber enclosures, 1 in a G body.
 
It's based off this, with the long flat section being against the back seat (sorry I was too lazy to draw the angle in to match the seat back), where the port tube is pointing towards the drivers side rear tire and the speaker opening is facing the trunk on the right.
YouTube - My idea for the enclosure

This was designed for a pair of SoundStream reference 12's in an ISO-baric configuration, and tuned accordingly.

Here are the specs on the box, let me know what you think.
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I still may go with the two soundstreams for cost, as I already have them but wanted to try one of the new JL's. The soundstreams sound GREAT, dont know about the JL's, and I have never tried the soundstreams in an isobaric loading either.
 
First thing you can throw the port size/length/tuning frequency out the window! The aperiodic membrane will throw that off. The iso will need less space as well, 1/2 the volume required by 1 woofer. You could seal off the spare tire well and iso 2 12's in it, it has 1cu ft volume. The purpose of the aperiodic membrane is to use a tiny box and the breathable membrane makes the woofer "see" a larger box. Try one of these...
The Subwoofer DIY Page - Dual-chamber ported systems
1.5 cu ft total, 1 cuft in one chamber and .5 cuft in the other. Gives 2 tuning frequencies and works really well,did 3 already and all sound well.
 
First thing you can throw the port size/length/tuning frequency out the window! The aperiodic membrane will throw that off. The iso will need less space as well, 1/2 the volume required by 1 woofer. You could seal off the spare tire well and iso 2 12's in it, it has 1cu ft volume. The purpose of the aperiodic membrane is to use a tiny box and the breathable membrane makes the woofer "see" a larger box. Try one of these...
The Subwoofer DIY Page - Dual-chamber ported systems
1.5 cu ft total, 1 cuft in one chamber and .5 cuft in the other. Gives 2 tuning frequencies and works really well,did 3 already and all sound well.

I'm quite capable of designing and building loudspeaker enclosures, and understand how to use the TS parameters for a given speaker; and worked for a shop that has two national sound-off championship titeles and met the best in the business. The design was for a 36hz F3 rolloff as a ported enclousure for the SS12R needs nearly 4 ft! The 1.97 is HALF that #.

Furthermore, you arent technicall correct by stating that the purpose of an aperiodic membrane. It's purpose is to give the speaker a flat impedence response by eliminating frequency-dependent acoustical resistance properties of the box.

You want to make the small box just big enough for the woofer magnet to clear it, as to stop the standing wave, but it is breathable and uses that "other" large enclosure is the actual speaker box. In Richard Clark's grand national - the subs were in an IB setup, with AP mats behind the 15's to controll the impedance curve.

The box you show here, is nearly 1 foot LARGER than the one I have designed and MUCH more complex to build/tune.
The Subwoofer DIY Page - Dual-chamber ported systems

I can even, with my design, make the port tubes interchangable, and the AP mat, so I can select different tunings.
Maybe one for SQ, and another for SPL.

Trust me here, I'll take your advice when I need help making this thing scoot, but I am perfactly able to do the sound stuff on my own.
 
That was a design for that paticular speaker not in an iso configuration. And when you do something out of the norm most box programs are almost useless. I never questioned your ability. Scan speak makes a vent with a type of aperiodic mat in it. Hope it turns out well, take pics and post them.
 
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