My T/A aluminum motor

[Jeff Rand]

It is now all coming back to me; I also used a different ARP head studs that have longer threads. The block threads are deep but the ARP stage 2 stud kit does not take advantage of it because of the short thread area. I had to order individual studs from ARP.
Jeff

 

[gnxtc2]

Do not use the standard ARP Stage 2 headstuds, they are the wrong ones for the aluminum block/blind holes.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/stage-ii-tech/242510-ta-block-question.html#post1797607

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[HighPSI]

Thinking the new 88 or a 91mm pro mod

Looks great Steve. I would recommend a billet 47-88.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Quick6, where do you live?

 

[XXQUICK6XX]

Chicago

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Where in chicago precisely....

I was always thinking... I always see these guys on here, taking these 109 blocks, and stage blocks, and trying to push 10,000 horsepower out of, when you could just take a t/a aluminum block, with ta aluminum heads, and a total forged lower, with a billet ball bearing hundred & something mm turbo, and just DOMINATE the strip. Is this what you're doing?

 

[XXQUICK6XX]

South side in Chicago. Why? As for my cars sometime I just a little outside the box.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

What's your address, and I'm assuming that block is a one man lift, correct?

 

[XXQUICK6XX]

2700 south California, Tony

 

[fxdxlr8]

Good Info

As usual the members have come forward with some good information. Thank-you. My TA motor is sealed up but after reading the link provided by Billy T. I may have the wrong head studs. Can you tell from the pic? Should the head stud have more of a bull nose like the header stud as opposed to the flat top that they seem to have ? I was about to heat cycle the heads and retorque to 75 ft lbs. Does that sound right? I did open up the lifter valley to assist with drain back as well as oil restricting push rods. I didn't know about any cooling mods. Is this worth taking the engine apart for? Steve are you running a oil line to feed the distributor/cam gear? Again thanks for the info and great looking build Steve!

 

[gnxtc2]

You can't tell the headstuds from the outside. The link in my post has the pic of the end of the stud that goes into the block. Yes, it looks like the bull nose on the exhaust stud.

Are the cooling mods that critical to tear your motor apart.....I would say no. You'll have to tear your whole motor and heads apart to drill the holes, never know where the drill shaving are going to wind up. :frown: The lower cooling holes line up with the exhaust ports.

Torque cycling the fasteners is probably more important than heat cycling them. If you really want to do it right with a new block, you'll have to build it, run it and tear it down. The block and all components should've went through a few heat cycle and should be "seasoned".

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[turbobob924]

Sweet!

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

I'll be by tuesday or wednesday lol. SWEET engine. I can't wait to see your results.

 

[BEATAV8]

Looks good Steve! Can't wait to see it.

 

[WIKEDV6]

Very, very nice Steve. Hey that big tire car is going to need a chute

Prasad

 

[BEATAV8]

Steve, is this your 2nd TA motor? I remember you were working on one last year too.

 

[XXQUICK6XX]

Same one just slow getting everything as fast as I want. And here is a picture on what Dan did for timing chain oiling.

 

[BEATAV8]

Same one just slow getting everything as fast as I want. And here is a picture on what Dan did for timing chain oiling.

Why is timing chain oiling an issue? Does the front cam bearing provide some oil to the cam thrust?

My old 109 is getting a similar setup for oiling the cam gear, but it's a billet cam setup without oil provisions for the cam gear.

 

[Not Avg 6]

Super nice, Steve. Can't wait to see it this summer.

 

[XXQUICK6XX]

A few recent pictures.