Multiple issues: readings, wires and smoke

[MAK507]

3/31/2016****MOST RECENT UPDATE:

Please see page 2.. Pictures and video for topic title concerns.

3/23/2016****UPDATE:
Cam sensor installed at 25* AFTER TDC, Casper cam tool used, lit up.. Great!! Then a big oooops to kill off the celebration.. More of this on post 18.****

ORIGINAL POST: Hey everybody quick intro to my situation ... been a long time since my last post. My build had to become the last priority.. Married life. Anyhow, everything is finished and the car has been running. All of a sudden it started running like crap, felt like it was losing power/misfiring. O2 milivolts flying from 750, 780, 800, 450, 47, 580, 740, etc. I'm installing the walbro fuel pump and hot wire kit this weekend. I also bought a new cam sensor and cam tool... The guy that was helping me build the motor had snapped the wheel off of the cam sensor and had the bolt machined back on to hold it in place. I'm guessing he installed it without the proper instructions?? I'm going to change the IAC valve as well then reset it with the new TPS I put in. My speedometer/rpm is not working, but scanmaster at WOT showed maxing 2300 rpm... Crazy.
Currently
Ta49 turbo, turbonetics external waste gate, 38lb Lucas D1163AA 621030 fuel injectors, accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, lt1 3" maf sensor, 3" maf pipe, new O2 sensor, new radiator, new ignition control module and coil pack from Kirban Performance.. (The ignition control module was MELTED.. I noticed it when I was going to change only the coil pack). The guy that was helping me had the boost gauge hose hooked up to he throttle body.. See attached picture. I just noticed that as I followed it back. Obviously boost gauge isn't reading anything. What hooks up there???

 

[earlbrown]

that nipple on the upper plenum isn't stock. It does see manifold pressure so your boost gauge will work there.

Your CDI box is fried. When it gets hot enough to gooify the potting material it's toast. It's generally a good idea to replace the coil pack at the same time. You have no way of knowing for sure what caused the failure and it might have been the coil pack that took out the CDI. If that's the case, it could take out a new one too. That alone will cause a crappy running condition.

The cam sensor can make it run poorly if ti's not set right, but that's easy enough to fix.

 

[MAK507]

that nipple on the upper plenum isn't stock. It does see manifold pressure so your boost gauge will work there.

Any way to know if it's larger than stock? I bought the car this way three years ago. Would it cause problems with the TurboTweak chip if it is, and I didn't specify?

Your CDI box is fried. When it gets hot enough to gooify the potting material it's toast. It's generally a good idea to replace the coil pack at the same time. You have no way of knowing for sure what caused the failure and it might have been the coil pack that took out the CDI. If that's the case, it could take out a new one too. That alone will cause a crappy running condition.

Yes, I figured it could take out a new one.. So I have a new coil pack and ignition control module (CDI?)

The cam sensor can make it run poorly if ti's not set right, but that's easy enough to fix.

The tool seems pretty self explanatory and with the new cam sensor I'll be able to rule this possible problem out.


Would a bad/out of line cam sensor cause this type of stumbling and lack of power? Attached is a picture of the cam sensor (how it was broken). He machined it back together.

 

[TurboBuRick]

The wheel should be keyed tight to the shaft with NO turning play or up and down play. If there is any slop in the cam sensor it will cause problems.

 

[earlbrown]

The nipple isn't varied from a stock size, One doesn't come there at all (much like the boost gauge). If's fine if you want to use it for that, the gauge just needs a signal not a large amount of flow.


On your cam sensor, you have a machinist that can't back out a broken screw?

 

[MAK507]

The nipple isn't varied from a stock size, One doesn't come there at all (much like the boost gauge). If's fine if you want to use it for that, the gauge just needs a signal not a large amount of flow.


On your cam sensor, you have a machinist that can't back out a broken screw?

Geez man I don't know how he did it. Honestly working with him made it one of the worst headaches in my life. (He was doing side jobs and never focusing on mine, even though I had him paid. His wife is a really good friend and he's worked on these in the past so I did a favor that shot me in the ass) I'll take a picture of it when I take it out Saturday.


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[MAK507]

Hey guys thanks for your support. I took a picture of the old cam sensor (the broken one that had the screw machined back on). There is no wiggle play. Same position as the new cam sensor that I bought. Either way, I'm going to install the new one.

I put the car at TDC. Turned it 25* (using the cam tool measurement sticker). Put the cam sensor in, but it doesn't push all the way in. Leaves a gap. Pics attached. On top of that, instructions say the "window" is facing the driver fender.... How direct to fender? 90* from the front of car or a little pointed more to the driver head light?? Picture attached.

The instructions online from http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cam_sensor.htm have the "window" pointing more toward the driver front tire... So I feel I'm setup wrong. The groove in the block is set in a way I can't replicate the instructions.

With all this being said... Late out at night, wasn't able to put the cam sensor in. Don't want to force it in.


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[MAK507]

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[jiho2]

Not to be annoying, but just to be sure about this -- that nipple on the intake manifold -- you do have a cap on that, right? You're not running with it open like in the picture, are you?

 

[MAK507]

Not to be annoying, but just to be sure about this -- that nipple on the intake manifold -- you do have a cap on that, right? You're not running with it open like in the picture, are you?

Not annoying at all---if anything I feel like the annoying newb -_- lol.
Nipple is currently capped off. It was hooked to a non working boost gauge.


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[Chuck Leeper]

Put the cam sensor in, but it doesn't push all the way in. Leaves a gap.

2 things:
1. Oil pump tang not lined up.
2. O'ring on sensor is tight, going into the cover. Put some "sneaky cream" on it.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Put a line on the top of the wheel with a sharpie indicating the position of the oil pump drive in the cam gear. Makes it much easier to line up with the pump drive.

Grease the o ring too.

May need to lightly tap the sensor down. I use a long screwdriver on the frame of the sensor next to the wheel and a small adjustable hammer.

Rick

 

[turbofrank]

If I recall window is set around 5 o'clock towards drivers front fender. Look up vortex buick and gnttype.org websites for better understanding.

 

[MAK507]

2 things:
1. Oil pump tang not lined up.
2. O'ring on sensor is tight, going into the cover. Put some "sneaky cream" on it.

Can I put a long flat head in there and turn it in the right direction? What is the right direction?

Attached is my drawing..

Put a line on the top of the wheel with a sharpie indicating the position of the oil pump drive in the cam gear. Makes it much easier to line up with the pump drive.

Grease the o ring too.

May need to lightly tap the sensor down. I use a long screwdriver on the frame of the sensor next to the wheel and a small adjustable hammer.

Rick

Cool. I was worried about tapping it in. Thanks for advice


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[jiho2]

Not annoying at all---if anything I feel like the annoying newb -_- lol.
Nipple is currently capped off. It was hooked to a non working boost gauge.

Thanks, I feel better!

 

[MAK507]

Anybody have a take on my drawing ??


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[earlbrown]

The window can point any direction it takes. The only reason, that's a general rule is to keep the wire from folding at an odd angle. It the real world, as long as the signal changes at the right time, it doesn't matter where the cap is orientated.

 

[MAK507]

Just shared this with earl in a message. Wanted to share with you guys too. Probably your first ever witnessing it.

---
I finally got the cam sensor done, LED lit up and all OK. unfortunately it was all at this late of a night. A friend came over to help so I can take a break. He was screwing the bolt in (that holds the cam sensor in place) at the pump. And then this happened..

The coolant is from him undoing the coolant line to have access to bolt.

What should I be worried about, other than buying a new water pump, removing the cam sensor, and re-doing the cam process?
*edit* woke up this morning and immediately said "shit, it was the timing chain cover" lol



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[cork]

That bolt goes into the timing cover, not the water pump. I would source a good used timing cover or buy one from Earl Brown, or TA performance.

 

[TurboBuRick]

That sucks but it should still work. You have to get the bolt started before the sensor is all the way down.