so put some autolite 23's in...man those plugs i pulled out looked pretty bad...like they had been in an old farm truck or something. it runs alot smoother and idles alot better, it feels better power wise but who knows until i get to a track. to me it does seem rich still, im right at 20lbs boost and zero knock with race gas. timing is at 23/21 and my fuel is -3% in 1st and 2cnd gear only. so now my question is if i go to track this weekend, do i give it more timing first? until i see knock? or do i take out fuel until i see knock? which one is first? you tuning guys chime in...probably last time at track this year so i want to make it worth my while and get good times...or it will be a long gloomy winter.:frown::frown::frown:
More boost = slower times...help troubleshoot inside
- Thread starter bluehair
- Start date
You need a powerlogger or DirectScan...... kinda flying blind without one...... if your plugs looked bad.... and they are not real old....you might have some real hardware issues.... but it is hard to tell without good data.....it might just be in the tune.......
Keep us posted....
Keep us posted....
imjoesnuffy
I just break stuff!
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2005
Forgot to ask earlier, do you have your fuel pressure at 42/43? Id bump the timing to 24/22. On the way to the track, or cruising around see how it does. Obviously you want to tune for no knock. I try to base mine off of 3rd gear pulls. But if your only doing eigth mile, Just make quick blasts up to 100 or so on the highway, Gene Snyder is a good spot for this. If you can do this with no knock, then I would start trimming fuel through the chip. Id start by trimming fuel in 1/2, as this tends to be more forgiving, for me anyway. Once you start to see the slightest of KR, lift. Add 2% back to where you were and run it out again. Just to make sure you get no knock.
Third gear same thing again, trim fuel a little at a time, doing it 2% at a time. Keep an eye on your O2 millivolts as well, I know every car is different but Id try to keep it above 740-750 just to be on the safe side. If you are unsure of the age of your O2 sensor, might think about replacing it, $18 last I recall. One thing that helped me was writing down the things that I did and the results as I was doing it so I wouldnt have to start all over because I forgot where I was at.
Thats how I used to do it before I had a powerlogger. Remember a little knock after the 1/2 and 2/3 shift is probably false knock. If you have a knock gauge, make sure it isnt increasing. Once you get done tuning it prior to the track, I'd pull the plugs and replace. Autolite 23's are cheap:biggrin:. You are probably still gonna be running rich now, so they will probably get fouled again while tuning.
thanks for the kind words.
there 18.7's in front with 245 tires, and 18.8's in the rear with 275 tires, bfg's all around, american racing torque lite wheels. there pretty light too.:biggrin:
the plugs looked pretty old, they were ac's and the wrong heat range according to what you guys reccomend anyways....the engine has about 12-13k on rebuild so im guessing they have been in there since then...but not sure. either way it seemed to make a good bit of difference driving around so im pretty tickled just in that.:wink:
im sure i will update to a powerlogger or directscan or whatnot but not this year, got two little babies to take care of so im on a budget for a bit...:biggrin::biggrin:
thanks for your help guys, keep the suggestions coming, i want to be a tuning guru down the road and help others, so learning and listening to those who have been there and done that help a bunch.
six is enough
Tweaked has a new Home
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2002
One thing that is important when running a stock turbo is ignition timing. You will go faster with high timing compared to higher boost and low timing with the stock turbo. I know guys who run 34 degrees of timing with no knock whatsoever. You cannot do this with a larger turbo but with a stock turbo you need timing to go fast.I would limit the boost to 22 pounds after this it is no longer effective. You do need to be able to monitor knock at all times. Now Iam not telling you to run this much timing but you will be faster with more timing rather than more boost. Start off slow and raise your timing a little at a time. You will get faster as you go.
still making power?
six is enough
Tweaked has a new Home
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2002
still making power? I guess runs in the high 11s with stock heads motor intercooler and turbo. So I would say yes.:biggrin:
update:
new plugs autolite 23's at .035
new front shocks
installed drive shaft loop:biggrin:
air bag
first pass was the following:
20lbs. boost
1.80 60ft.
8.05 @ 86.20 mph zero knock crappy burnout
26/24 on timing 110 octane -3% fuel in 1/2cnd
slowed down next three passes upping boost, playing with timing, fuel....so i said screw it and turned all setting on street chip back to default other than timing...set it to 26/26 put boost back at 16lbs., fuel back to default....
and woooh. 8.04 with 1.73 60ft. good burnout. 84.5 mph. so i lost mph but i still went a 8.04 on 16 lbs. on stock turbo...i didnt think that was too bad tuning in the dark with only scanmaster....someday ill get real tuning tools!!!:tongue:
new plugs autolite 23's at .035
new front shocks
installed drive shaft loop:biggrin:
air bag
first pass was the following:
20lbs. boost
1.80 60ft.
8.05 @ 86.20 mph zero knock crappy burnout
26/24 on timing 110 octane -3% fuel in 1/2cnd
slowed down next three passes upping boost, playing with timing, fuel....so i said screw it and turned all setting on street chip back to default other than timing...set it to 26/26 put boost back at 16lbs., fuel back to default....
and woooh. 8.04 with 1.73 60ft. good burnout. 84.5 mph. so i lost mph but i still went a 8.04 on 16 lbs. on stock turbo...i didnt think that was too bad tuning in the dark with only scanmaster....someday ill get real tuning tools!!!:tongue:
When you say it slowed down when you increased the boost...... what were each of the 60' times? the 60' time can KILL a otherwise good run.....
If you look at the 8.05 pass... you went 1.80 on the 60' (decent... but not great) On the 16lb pass.... you went a 1.73 60'.... it may not seem like much but you probably would have gone low 7.90's on the 8.05 pass if you would have cut a 1.73 60' time.......
In summary.... the MPH is the true indicator of if you are making more HP or not..... the ET is so heavily affected by the 60'.... you must look at all the times to get some feel if the car was "really" slower. Comparing the other incremental times also will give some insight..... like the 330' time....
HTH
jasjamz
THS Racer
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2004
What were your Scanmaster readings at the traps? You can watch it and tune according to it. You could use a wideband, but if you aren't watching them its a waste. What was the boost during the run, any spikes or drop-offs. I have seen cars loose 3 psi, and others creep up 6 psi. Last year I had a powerlogger, WB, and the Scanmaster. This year just a scanmaster...simple yet effective.
