bmackinnon
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
Gosh! Thank you! :biggrin: -NEED-SCAN-TOOL-DATA-......
many mods promised me 11's but running 14's!
- Thread starter lind12950
- Start date
Gosh! Thank you! :biggrin: -NEED-SCAN-TOOL-DATA-......
Pronto
Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
+1 and can you get any boost while at the line?
Comments on 20" rims messing up your 60' are valid. When you straighten out your low rpm power issues you should have all the power needed to melt them. A drag radial will give you traction that no tire on a 20" rim can. I'm talking at the track when your shooting for the 11s. What you want to ride on when on the street is up to you.
Hint.... take that Red Armstrong chip out and send it to Eric Marshall...... or destroy it....either way.
I strongly recommend getting one of Eric's chips.... Red's chips are notorious for being fat down low.... and no adjustability....or drivability.....
With a TT chip and some tuning.... you will be frying the 20's...without even brake building any boost....a good datalogger will make tuning much easier.... as will a wideband.
Your converter may be a little tight..... but we won't know until we address the tuneup....chip.... launch technique....and boost controller... (What are you using to control boost?)
Oh.... you haven't answered my question about how you launch the car... step by step....
HTH
Just a Six??
OK! Who Farted??
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2003
I BET $100 he has a cracked header or a leak somewhere!! That KILLS Spool!
Then he needs:
Turbo Tweak Chip
9" K&N Breather under the hood
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Hotwired Walbro 340 fuel pump & a Clean gas Filter
Get rid of the 20 year old plugged up catalytic converter
Stock exhaust will lose you 4 tenths so a dump pipe & downpipe are needed
Looser torque converter like a Pats 10" 3000 stall
A scanmaster at minimum for tuning
Wideband is nice to have but not needed right away
Practice Launching the car!
Learn to Fine Tune the car!
Read! Read! Read! GNTTPE.org Vortexbuicks-etc.com Turbobuicks.com
More Practice!
Dont listen to everyone here that likes to pick on new guys who are different. I dont like 20's myself but you do so who cares?
Problem is they 20's have a time & place BUT its Not at the track.
Good Luck!
Then he needs:
Turbo Tweak Chip
9" K&N Breather under the hood
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Hotwired Walbro 340 fuel pump & a Clean gas Filter
Get rid of the 20 year old plugged up catalytic converter
Stock exhaust will lose you 4 tenths so a dump pipe & downpipe are needed
Looser torque converter like a Pats 10" 3000 stall
A scanmaster at minimum for tuning
Wideband is nice to have but not needed right away
Practice Launching the car!
Learn to Fine Tune the car!
Read! Read! Read! GNTTPE.org Vortexbuicks-etc.com Turbobuicks.com
More Practice!
Dont listen to everyone here that likes to pick on new guys who are different. I dont like 20's myself but you do so who cares?
Problem is they 20's have a time & place BUT its Not at the track.
Good Luck!
V8Assassin
100mi away ready 2 strike
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2007
Obi Wan has spoken wisely!
The TT chip is a must, as well as some method of datalogging.
My best advice would be to back up a couple of steps and get a scanmaster, wideband, and datalogger. Info, info, info, can't have enough of it. Also, decide exactly what you want out of this car and take it very slowly, step by step to see how each addition affects the overall performance and tune of the car.
It will be extemely difficult to get the performance you are looking for until the data is gathered.
GNVYUS 1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
Last post until the OP puts up some data from that PGM etc.
If you think that a 20" rim with the same circumference as a 15" will hook the same then
1) Why don't Top Fuel cars run skinny sidewalls with taller rims? That's right, they don't, they have 18" wide tires set to around 5psi at 36" in circumference on either a 15 or 16" rim.
Tires grab the road and the sidewall is an important part of how the tire reacts to the road while being driven by engine torque. Skinny sidewalls spin and don't flex much which is why auto cross etc cars love them vs drag tires.
So I'm not saying you need to ditch the 20's but for the track I'd highly consider it and for performance reasons, which is what this thread was initially about.
But you're not even spinning 20's so let's start there with fueling and launching specs which have been asked for countless times.
If you think that a 20" rim with the same circumference as a 15" will hook the same then
1) Why don't Top Fuel cars run skinny sidewalls with taller rims? That's right, they don't, they have 18" wide tires set to around 5psi at 36" in circumference on either a 15 or 16" rim.
Tires grab the road and the sidewall is an important part of how the tire reacts to the road while being driven by engine torque. Skinny sidewalls spin and don't flex much which is why auto cross etc cars love them vs drag tires.
So I'm not saying you need to ditch the 20's but for the track I'd highly consider it and for performance reasons, which is what this thread was initially about.
But you're not even spinning 20's so let's start there with fueling and launching specs which have been asked for countless times.
- Joined
- May 9, 2002
Welp, I'd like to see future posts in this thread (and all of the tech forum for that matter) be 'tech' in focus....If anyone is going to singlehandedly lecture others, its going to be the moderator (me).
Take your attitudes, name calling and verbosity to the political forum or the Lounge, please, don't post it here. (A word of warning, name calling won't be tolerated there either).
The one single thing that makes this board worth while for its members is sharing reliable tech information to those of us in need. That is the sole purpose of the general tech forum. We have worked diligently to keep this forum talking about tech issues only. Personal attacks are inappropriate. Please be sure your posts comply with that one criteria. Thanks.
Take your attitudes, name calling and verbosity to the political forum or the Lounge, please, don't post it here. (A word of warning, name calling won't be tolerated there either).
The one single thing that makes this board worth while for its members is sharing reliable tech information to those of us in need. That is the sole purpose of the general tech forum. We have worked diligently to keep this forum talking about tech issues only. Personal attacks are inappropriate. Please be sure your posts comply with that one criteria. Thanks.
My Turn!
OK, the 20's aren't killing your times. Your cat isn't killing your times. Your launch probably isn't either. It is more than likely a little of everything.
My suggestions??
If you have other wheels, lose the 20s at least for the track. The smaller sidewall will prevent you from hooking once you get more power to the ground on launches, and the extra weight is probably hurting you now.
If you want to keep the 20s on, even at the track, then there are still other ways to improve it.
Your cat could be plugged. When I first started racing, I couldn't get my stock GN out of the 15s. The cat was so plugged that the guy that cut it off asked how I got the car there. When I told him I drove it, he commented that he didn't think it would even start. So, get the cat off of there, or get a high flow unit. If you are going to spend the money on a cut out, then you might be better off spending the money on a new downpipe. You could get away without it, but in the long run will save a couple of bucks, because you won't be buying a straight pipe or high flow cat twice.
Get a scan tool.
Try again, and leave with as much boost as you can without spinning.
I would start there. There is alot more to do, but baby steps will help you find the problems easier.
OK, the 20's aren't killing your times. Your cat isn't killing your times. Your launch probably isn't either. It is more than likely a little of everything.
My suggestions??
If you have other wheels, lose the 20s at least for the track. The smaller sidewall will prevent you from hooking once you get more power to the ground on launches, and the extra weight is probably hurting you now.
If you want to keep the 20s on, even at the track, then there are still other ways to improve it.
Your cat could be plugged. When I first started racing, I couldn't get my stock GN out of the 15s. The cat was so plugged that the guy that cut it off asked how I got the car there. When I told him I drove it, he commented that he didn't think it would even start. So, get the cat off of there, or get a high flow unit. If you are going to spend the money on a cut out, then you might be better off spending the money on a new downpipe. You could get away without it, but in the long run will save a couple of bucks, because you won't be buying a straight pipe or high flow cat twice.
Get a scan tool.
Try again, and leave with as much boost as you can without spinning.
I would start there. There is alot more to do, but baby steps will help you find the problems easier.
i haven't read all of the posts but it sounds like your not leaving hard enough.
simply flooring it off the line won't work at all for the turbo cars. you have to spool the turbo up.
first you need a set of sticky tires. heat them up real good before your pass.
when you get to the line, put the parking brake on all the way down, stand your left foot on the brake pedal, and push your right foot on the gas to maybe halfway, or when you get to like 10 lbs of boost.
you said traction wasn't a problem...your 60ft was 2.4. that tells me right there that you are not leaving hard at all.
just look at your boost guage.... don't worry about the green light. you can sit there for 5 minutes after the light turns green. it will not affect your ET. but your reaction time will suck but who cares. leave when you are ready, don't worry about the light. my car went 12.5 at 109. my 60 ft wasn't very good but i had very little practice. it's a little tricky to get the whole thing down. i would have had a very nice launch on the one pass but my posi came loose and i smoked up the passenger side tire.
i have a new combo now and am hoping for the 11s next time. i need tires first!
good luck!!
simply flooring it off the line won't work at all for the turbo cars. you have to spool the turbo up.
first you need a set of sticky tires. heat them up real good before your pass.
when you get to the line, put the parking brake on all the way down, stand your left foot on the brake pedal, and push your right foot on the gas to maybe halfway, or when you get to like 10 lbs of boost.
you said traction wasn't a problem...your 60ft was 2.4. that tells me right there that you are not leaving hard at all.
just look at your boost guage.... don't worry about the green light. you can sit there for 5 minutes after the light turns green. it will not affect your ET. but your reaction time will suck but who cares. leave when you are ready, don't worry about the light. my car went 12.5 at 109. my 60 ft wasn't very good but i had very little practice. it's a little tricky to get the whole thing down. i would have had a very nice launch on the one pass but my posi came loose and i smoked up the passenger side tire.
i have a new combo now and am hoping for the 11s next time. i need tires first!
good luck!!
stack1
Senior Stacker
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2006
He's in Columbus, so I guess either National Trails or Marion? I sent him a PM offering my help and a free test pipe but never received a response.
I asked for a step by step launch technique from the OP back on post #79 and then re-asked for it on post #103....... I was hoping to find out what technique he was using... so we might can offer a potential solution based on how he was actually attempting to launch the car.....
Hopefully he will come back and answer some of these types of questions.
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