Lighter rotors?

[Unsafe6]

Anyone know who makes lighter rotors than stock? I saw somewhere that the stockers were about 18 lbs. and the SSBC replacements were 9.5 lbs. Can anyone confirm the weight of the stockers and/or some of he aftermarket stock replacements?

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Originally posted by Unsafe6
Anyone know who makes lighter rotors than stock? I saw somewhere that the stockers were about 18 lbs. and the SSBC replacements were 9.5 lbs. Can anyone confirm the weight of the stockers and/or some of he aftermarket stock replacements?

The better question is why? Are you running low nines and have a parachute?

 

[Unsafe6]

Do I have to run nines to use lighter aftermarket wheels too? I need rotors and if I can save some weight why not?

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Originally posted by Unsafe6
Do I have to run nines to use lighter aftermarket wheels too? I need rotors and if I can save some weight why not?

It has to do with how brakes work.

When the pad is pressed against the rotor, it produces heat. That heat has to go somewhere or the pads will burn up and your fluid will boil. That somewhere is the rotor. The more mass, the more heat it can absorb before the system fails.

On a car this heavy, going as fast as yours, you want big, nasty, heavy honkin' rotors. Cut unsprung weight anywhere you want, but you want the biggest rotors you can get.

Now, this doesn't mean you can't save weight somewhere else, like the hub. If you can get a two-piece rotor/hub assembly with a billet aluminum hub and an iron rotor (the Wilwood and Baer brake kits use this), you can save a lot of weight, and still get a nice, heavy iron rotor.

Lightweight rotors are sold by lots of companies, but if the car is street driven, you shouldn't use them. They can only take 1 hard stop, then you have to let them sit and cool off.

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by Unsafe6
Do I have to run nines to use lighter aftermarket wheels too? I need rotors and if I can save some weight why not?

If you're running a drag car that is one thing, but on a street car quite another. Part of what's designed into a braking system, is mass. Brakes need to be able to absorb ALOT of heat. Running low mass brakes, means, your sacrificing that ability. For a drag car that just makes 1 serious stop every hour or so that's one thing, but on street car, it means not not being able to stop once you've heated them up.

Just a FWIW

 

[Unsafe6]

These are not thin drag style rotors but factory replacements, stock thickness and diameter. They come in standard and slotted, just saw a post somewhere that they were a bunch lighter and was wondering if anyone could confirm. I figure for $40 per rotor it would be a good investment.

 

[420]

I'd like to hear about the SSBC kit as well, as far as weight savings and streetability

 

[Louie L.]

I did a SSBC front kit on a low mi Limited with a otherwise perfect working brake system. There was a slight increase in stopping power, but pedal feel was less than desirable with the powermaster.

 

[jsta6]

Interesting.

What about going from a heavy 11" to a light weight 12"?

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Originally posted by jsta6
Interesting.

What about going from a heavy 11" to a light weight 12"?

Again, depends on what you consider "light." If you're talking about drag brakes, your lightweight 12" might stop great the first time, but the regular 11" will stop over and over again.

If it's just a 12" rotor that has been lightened, put it on a scale next to that 11". I bet 12" is still heavier. Adding an inch in diameter increases the overall size of the rotor by 10%. You'd have to do a lot of grinding and drilling to take 10% of the material off, and after that, they'd probably crack.