LC1 install getting #8 error code. Faulty 02?

[darkred87T]

I installed my new LC-1 wideband last night and successfully calibrated it. I'm logging it with my Powerlogger. When I first turned the key on (without starting the car), it went through it's "warm up" and the indicator light went steady. I looked at the Power Logger and AF read about 22:1. Normal with engine off right?

As soon as I started the car, the indicator light went into "error" mode and the sensor stopped working. I get 8 blinks everytime I turn the key on now. The trouble code reference tells me the sensor is over heating/damaged. It's located at the bottom of the down pipe right before the Cat. so temperature should not be a problem. Do I have a bad sensor?

Also, I used the Pink/black ECM wire for my 12V ignition source. I looked it up on a chart and this is supposed to be a good source with a 10a fuse. They reccomend a minimum of 5a. I'm going to call Innovate a little later on but wanted to get some ideas first.

Thanks in advance for any advice,
Mike

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

If you have a known good 02 sensor laying around you could swap it out and retry it.

 

[darkred87T]

Wish i did...

 

[aminga]

If it's too close then I'm in trouble. Mine is in the downpipe under the heater box.

Where did you put the ground?

 

[darkred87T]

Your's works O.K. right? I'm thinking it's defective. I can't think of any other reason why it wouldn't work all of the suuden.

 

[aminga]

Your's works O.K. right? I'm thinking it's defective. I can't think of any other reason why it wouldn't work all of the suuden.

I haven't powered it up yet. Going to get the bung welded in this afternoon.

But you did remind me I need a fuse on that. I tapped my auxiliary gauge feeds. No fuses.

 

[Pronto]

Welcome to the wonderful world of the LC-1. Hope you can get it to work. I couldn't.

 

[darkred87T]

Welcome to the wonderful world of the LC-1. Hope you can get it to work. I couldn't.

Uh oh, that's not very encouraging.

The funny thing is, it was working until I started the car. I called Innovate and they told me to try a different ground. So, I'm gonna do that and call him back. I'll keep you posted.

 

[DailyDrifter]

Did you start the car without the sensor connected? If you did its done.

 

[Just a Six??]

Those things seem to be picky about their grounds. Make sure its a good solid ground first off. But as mentioned you could have fried it?

 

[darkred87T]

Did you start the car without the sensor connected? If you did its done.

No. The car was never started without it hooked up. I tried grounding it right to the car body and it didn't help. I'm waiting for Innovate to get back to me but we all know how customer service is (generally speaking). I'm probably going to wind having to buy a new sensor.

 

[TurboDave]

No. The car was never started without it hooked up. I tried grounding it right to the car body and it didn't help. I'm waiting for Innovate to get back to me but we all know how customer service is (generally speaking). I'm probably going to wind having to buy a new sensor.

The car body isn't a very good ground at all!! Seriously, it's one of the poorest. The only sure bet ground is the block, and no, I don't mean in intake manifold bolt..... Those are even worse than the body.

There's a reason all the critical ECM and stock O2 grounds are tied to the back of the passenger side head.

 

[darkred87T]

Yeah I figured car body wasn't a good ground but I had to try something different just to see if there was a change and there wasn't. I previously had it grounded to one of the solid black ECM wires.

I talked to Innovate and they said the vendor I bought it from should take care of it and if not I can fill out an RMA with them. What a pain. Good thing it's not drag racing season yet.

 

[Boost231]

i went through this problem as well. i sent mine back and got a new one. i put it in and error again. i changed every wire to different spots tried every thing i could think of with the wiring with no luck.so i took the one out of my other car and swaped sensors and it fixed the problem. i guess when i sent mine back they just changed the boxes and sent me the same sensor back. well now it work. its probley just the sensor

 

[Pronto]

Mine worked for the first 10 minutes before going haywire. I grounded it everywhere, separate grounds whatever was suggested on their website. Nothing worked right. They took it back and checked it out and it was "OK". I went with the NGK A/Fx. Worked great right from the start and still is fine.:wink:

 

[darkred87T]

I think I'm going to let them send me a new one under warrenty but in the mean time I might check out some other brands. They don't last long with leaded fuel so it can't hurt to have a back up anyway.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

I've got both the LM1 and LC1 and the LC1 has been nothing but trouble. I did the new ground straight to the battery and same crap, goes dumb at WOT and shows whatever AF/R was there last. LM1 has been problem free in every car it's been in.

AEM is dirt cheap now at $200 shipped and I've heard fewer problems.

 

[turbojimmy]

Hopefully it's just the sensor. I helped Mike install it and went through the initial start up. We followed the instructions to the "T" and the little LED did exactly what it was supposed to do, ultimately ending with a solid red. It was providing an AFR of 22:1 in open air, so it was working.

As soon as he started up the car, we got the flashing LED with the 8 error code. It's grounded to the ECM ground that runs out to the block. Same ground that we're using for the PowerLogger analog input block, and that works fine. I think the sensor is bad.

I had an LM-1 and it worked great, but this thing is giving my brother fits.

Jim

 

[darkred87T]

I had an LM-1 and it worked great, but this thing is giving my brother fits.

Jim

And from what I'm reading so far, I'm only at the tip of the iceberg. Maybe I'll make them exchange it for an LM-1

 

[turbojimmy]

And from what I'm reading so far, I'm only at the tip of the iceberg. Maybe I'll make them exchange it for an LM-1

I don't think they make it anymore. It's bulky and redundant if you have the PowerLogger. Based on what I'm reading here, I'd send the whole shootin' match back to Full Throttle and get a different brand sensor.

Jim