Is this the correct way to set up a distributor?

You can re-index the ring to 50 deg BTDC if you want to run a generic delayed spark ecu. The Buick system is predictive spark and will work just fine with the stock setup and a distrib, as long as you have a points output for your MSD box and the crank signal makes it to ecu properly. The DFI should too. Maybe you could try telling it that the system is a Ford TFI, if the Buick setting is lacking something. The only other thing to do would be to verify with a scope (or even voltmeter) that the crank signal is making it at full amplitude to the ecu pins. Beware, if you simply pull the CCCI module out and just run a wire from sensor to ecu pin, it won't necessarily(!)

TurboTR
 
quickt said:
custom ( if set on Buick DIS will need 5 volt square wave signal will never work)

rising
falling
rising
disable
LT1 Hall effect
Flying magnet
points

The crank hi wire to B on crank sensor If I remember right. Works everytime.

Well I fired mine last night with the settings above and have no issues so far. I'm going to put a timing light on it tonight, I haven't used mine in so long I forgot it was broken.
 
turbobuick said:
Well I fired mine last night with the settings above and have no issues so far. I'm going to put a timing light on it tonight, I haven't used mine in so long I forgot it was broken.

Please tell us if your timing is off? Also how much hp gains would be nice to note. ;)
 
I don't know what to tell you Norbs but I checked the timing and it dead nuts on. Pretty easy swap to be honest. I even used Cal/Caspers coil pack adapter they made for the XFI. I can swap back in minutes and may try it if we have enough time on the dyno Wed. Right now I have a bunch of other stuff to take care of.
 
Well , i have driven tha car a bit, and it definity runs better with the crank trigger/ distributor setup, compared to the coil pack. As for the power i have pickeup i wont know until i race/dyno, but if you can feel the difference at low boost it is a step in the right direction, i will never go back to the dreaded coil pack setup.
 
norbs said:
Well , i have driven tha car a bit, and it definity runs better with the crank trigger/ distributor setup, compared to the coil pack. As for the power i have pickeup i wont know until i race/dyno, but if you can feel the difference at low boost it is a step in the right direction, i will never go back to the dreaded coil pack setup.

Norbs,

2 questions:

1. How was your "idle" affected with the distributor over the coil pac ?

2. How did you make out with your MAF (inlet) pipe ? pics ??

Thanks,

George
 
I made a bracket to pull the inlet pipe forward a bit. I will get you some pics, but someone must make a inlet pipe that fits, Ask Cal.

The idle seems to be slightly better, more consistant in my opinion. You should make big power if you do the switch over, i would not hesitate to do it.
 
which set-up works best, makes more power, easiest to install, cost of ea. to convert

Well this far into this thread, I try to compare these avialible upgraded ignition conversions , the pro's and con's of each. :wink:

Which set-up works the best;this first thread will be on.......

Stock style rel. ring and stock dis ign., stk sensor

POSITIVE POINTS;....easy to do,low cost
mode;b2b or seq.
easy and cheap to phase the stk. reluctor,dont have cost
regs. an adaptor to 3-coil stk ign, dont have cost
regs an ECM to stk wiring harness adaptor, dont have cost
reqs. an adaptor to stk crank sensor, dont have cost
timing can be programed to any curve
some pos. points are determined by the ECM used

NEG.POINTS;.....uses a crank sensor and triggering wheel that is not race engine proven,
uses a DIS coil system that fires on the compression stroke and the overlap stroke [wasted spark] ea. time its triggered, This waste spark system is not opimal for a turbocharged engine,
and alot of fried coils have been an on going problem in high hp use,
also back-firing in the pressurized exh.ie; sets up a chain reaction of events that hurts performance,.
This comb. does not increase hp, or torque anymore than using a well programed chip, or aftermarket mafless controller.

POINTS on a 1-to-10 scale of upgrade,10=highest
3 points, adj timing
 
I think you should give him a free crank trigger kit for advertising ;)
 
I will make him a good offer , Tony e-mail me or pm if your interested. JEFF
Tony ,sent you a pm
 
The next step in ign. upgrade uses the stk sensor and stk. reluctor ring,but now takes away the stk. DIS ign. and the three coils

Replacing them with an MSD Pro-Master coil, billet distributor,and a 7AL-2 Ign.
Cost...7al-2 450.00.....pro-power coil 150.00, distr 350.00, ...total..950.00

positive points
Removing the problem prone dis and changing to a more reliable ign. box and coil that also adds power at all rpms, not just a few, but can add as much as 80 to 150hp depending on the power range that the engine is built to. I came up with the 150hp increase partly by Bill Anderson's World Record setting run.
This set-up allows some very good options on ECM's to be usable[ GEN7 has an over-rev two stage power down that is done right for a turbo engine,7 also has a programable two-stage boost builder option that does double duty as a two step stutter] I believe that alot of guys that have spent aleast 15,000 up to 25,000 will spend 950.00 to have a more reliable ign. that gives a 10% power increase, and is much easier on parts ie; no BIG BANG, fried coil-packs, and stock sensors going bad because they were built for passenger cars. Any racer out to win a nat. championship, or set records, knows that every horsepower that his engine can produce must be paid for if he stands a shot at them. In general terms, the high dollar guys win most of the time.

neg. points
NONE, WINNG IS WORTH EVERY DOLLAR SPENT, but only if there is good marketing behind ea. one
neg. stock sensor is not the best avialible for this purpose, niether is the stamped steel reluctor ring. These better sensors and trigger wheels will be addressed in the next upgrade
My marketing makes an appearance also.
 
Some testing with the crank trigger is with a gen 6 dfi rpm limitations are as follows:


.025 gap 800 rpm until misfire
.060 gap 2500 rpm " " " "
.080 gap 4000 rpm "" " "


I have not opened it up more. However it seems the .080 is working fine with the gen 7. , according to the datalogs. I may have to go until it doesn;t start. Anyone else play with a gen 6 on crank trigger?
 

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Not that great news, but this is a hidden problem of the gen 6 that no one talks about. I think the rpm ceiliing is about 6200. I will have to keep tinkering with it. With a newer systems out there it shoud not be a problem.
 
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