Internals for different power bands question

[TT/Ameasap]

And by lower gears you mean... (I ask because everyone has a different opinion one what low & high means in relations to gears)

3:55 or 3:73 and 30" tall tire will hook on dirt. Larger dia. tire has more traction than wider, so ideally you want tallest and widest tire you can fit. Dodge guys figured this out a long time ago. For some reason, people just dont do it , but want what your asking. It made perfect sense to me and proved to work excellent. Wheelies with 1.59 60ft and the wheelie in sig is 1.44 60ft

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

You do not have too much power, you just can't put it down. Try changing things up, remove the ATR rear bar, remove the airbag, try lower tire pressures, one massive burnout, then smaller ones. My car lifts the front tire with stock suspension parts, KYBs and smaller tires (26x10) off the foot brake at the track. On the street it's ok, but I can spin them if I want, nothing will hook well on the street. Are your shocks really stiff? Won't let it transfer weight?

I can't put it down? I know; that's why I was asking the questions about the other areas of the car to consider Remove the rear bar? How would that help me? The airbag's doesn't help with 10 psi or 0 psi. It's like it's not even there. Burn outs? No help. I have bilstein shocks/stock springs. You can hook at the track? You better - it's a track lol. No vht on the streets. Though our local track is known for sucking so that's ok if I don't hook at my track; I'm ok with it. I'm mainly there to tune my soft launches; the kind that I must do on the street.

"I have almost the same combo and I have 1.6 60ft on all stock susp/even the bushings were stock. See if you have a extended pinion snubber. I had one years ago and it caused traction issues."
No pinion snubber; Met a guy at my meet that had one and it blew his rear window out on a hard launch lol. This was 2006 - removed it and never looked back lol.

"3:55 or 3:73 and 30" tall tire will hook on dirt. Larger dia. tire has more traction than wider, so ideally you want tallest and widest tire you can fit. Dodge guys figured this out a long time ago. For some reason, people just dont do it , but want what your asking. It made perfect sense to me and proved to work excellent. Wheelies with 1.59 60ft and the wheelie in sig is 1.44 60ft"

I agree, but I'm chasing the stock look. The tires in my signature are the biggest I'll go. Plus I can't be wearing down 340 dollar sets of tires every 8 weekends lol. I know I can figure this out, I was just trolling for some sure fire solutions by some people that may have had the same situation, and didn't want to cruise with tires that made them look like John Force. It's hard to get races with these tires; what makes you think I'm going to get someone to line up with me with a mini tub/rail notch? lol. I still have the tighter converter / 3.11 rear end / or .85 housing / 2 stage boost controller to try. I know a guy that runs a boost controller that is hammering them on the street with it. Just looking for internals as a possible option. I hear big cams can make the car a little slower down low. Was investigating that option.

 

[bison]

You want to build an engine to rev and make power? Don't ask the budget because it won't be cheap. More turbo, more cam, supporting valvetrain components, good heads. Get exhaust pressure to manifold pressure as close to 1:1 as possible. The closer it is the more like an NA engine it will act if you have the valvetrain for it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

I see... Hmmm...

 

[JAMCAR223]

You have a suspension issue, not a power train issue. I had a BBC s10 truck w/ 800hp on a 26x10.5 tire ( we had a special small tire class here in Tx. ). Big power CAN be put down on a small tire. Weight transfer is your subject to research... weight off the front transferred to he rear. Fiberglass front bumper, aluminum radiator, smaller group size battery, battery relocation, front sway bar removal, lighter wheel/tire combo, fiberglass hood, export front bumper brackets, 90/10 front shocks. Rear pinion angle, softer compound tire, adjustable rear shocks, lower tire pressure, air bag psi, adding weight ballast. Keep a log book of the changes you make, and how they affect the ET. Pick up a copy of " Doorslammers" book. I totally agree with a boost controller . Things to consider.....

 

[SHADOWII]

Look into the MSBC-1, boost controller as suggested by rag231. I believe it will more than serve your needs w/all it's separate ramping capabilities and combined w/better wt. transfer for god traction control. The price should be reasonable now also. look for the later model.

 

[TurboTnZ06]

I bet the rear suspension is binding up under load, and not letting anything transfer. These cars stock can hook in a wet car wash. Look at the reality street racing drag shows on tv, they hook on the street with gobs of power, but they handle terribly. How many episodes are they sideways or in the ditch upside down? Remove the sway bars, 90/10 or double adjustable shocks, ditch the air bag, get ET Drags, not streets, drop air pressure to 15, and it'll hook, but won't handle well at all.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Understood on the boost controller. Will investigate further. And my ET drags did hook pretty good. You guys think the double adjustable shocks will help a lot? And I'm assuming these double adjustables are for the front, correct?
And how will ditching the airbag and/or sway bar help me? Explain further. I'll try anything within reason

 

[TurboTnZ06]

There's a reason folks ditch the front sway bar, add a HR parts rear bar, and add dedicated drag shocks front and rear. The ET streets didn't hook, if you don't have traction. There are soft and stiff sidewall slicks out there. I ran soft 28x9 MT ET Drags for years and could barely spin on the street, but used them to 1.50 in the 60 ft off the footbrake. My wastegate is external, with a 15# spring and a bleeder. I can go from 0-25 psi in about half a second, and if I want traction on the street, I just give it 5-10 psi at most with my right foot. That is 10 psi on 4.2L 109 with TSM ported GN1 alum heads with a low 9 second cam, trust me that is a quick 10# boost. Moving the powerband up means it'll hit even harder since the engine will be making more power. Now, I just barely touch the gas and my car goes sideways on the 1-2 shift, even though there is way more power in it up top. You need to change the suspension, not change the power.

 

[ITSAV6]

I did the 1.6 with IROC front sway bar installed, handling was crap with it off. A video of a launch will help people help you troubleshoot.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Yea I've been thinking about videoing my car during the launch. It's a good idea.

 

[Pronto]

I cut 1.5s with a 36mm TA swaybar hooked up.

 

[20psiofevil]

Yea I've been thinking about videoing my car during the launch. It's a good idea.

This is a very good tool for dialing in a car.

I've had very good luck on the 275 et pro. As for your sig I'd do solid lowers with poly bushings and adjustable uppers so you can set pinion angle if needed. Be careful going to lower numerical gear as it will load the converter faster and could change the flash stall higher. I'd change the 63 ar to 85 or play with the timing curve before digging into the engine for a cam swap. You say street car but want a big cam that's going to move the power curve right? That's back wards to me as this is something you want for track car to allow higher shift points.

Team Z makes very good stuff. http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/G_body_suspension_p/tzm-gbrs2.htm

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Yea I have a good solid lower control arm (trailing arm) with poly bushings, and am in the process of getting the adjustable uppers. And a bigger hot side is definitely a piece I'm going to play with as well. What about a 2400 stall? I'd love lower cruise rpms too.

 

[ITSAV6]

X2 on susp bind and checking pinion angle.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

I remember reading about that when I first got this car 10 years ago; they were talking about that when replacing bushing with the poly counterparts. 1. How do I perform a definitive check for bind? 2. Does bind really inhibit traction that much?

 

[No disintegrations]

I remember reading about that when I first got this car 10 years ago; they were talking about that when replacing bushing with the poly counterparts. 1. How do I perform a definitive check for bind? 2. Does bind really inhibit traction that much?

jack it up by the frame in the rear and watch and listen for odd noises. Do each side separately. The frame should raise up quite a way until the tire starts to lift off the ground.

 

[No disintegrations]

If somehow the wrong length shocks are installed that may cause your problem. Keep in mind on an unprepped road you'll need to pedal the car in 1st and 2nd if you make 400+ to the wheels with cool tires and road temp. even dirt that clings to the tires can cause trouble. This need to be scratched off to help them hold. (tiny burnout at least)

Any pics of your tire tread showing worn out or age?

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

If somehow the wrong length shocks are installed that may cause your problem. Keep in mind on an unprepped road you'll need to pedal the car in 1st and 2nd if you make 400+ to the wheels with cool tires and road temp. even dirt that clings to the tires can cause trouble. This need to be scratched off to help them hold. (tiny burnout at least)

Any pics of your tire tread showing worn out or age?

"jack it up by the frame in the rear and watch and listen for odd noises. Do each side separately. The frame should raise up quite a way until the tire starts to lift off the ground."

My tires are about 9 months old and are in great condition. I have the HD Bilsteins. I hear the only difference between the HD bilsteins and the luxury ones were NOT the valving, but the internal stops that limit travel; to the tune of about a quarter inch shorter on the HD's. Ever hear that before?

 

[silentbutdeadly]

If you simply want to take what you have(power wise) to get the car to play nice on the street....get some adjustable rear/front shocks(i.e. QA-1s), softer tires, remove the front sway bar and get the hr rear sway bar.....removing front sway bar will allow front end to raise higher which in turn helps transfer weight( only suggest this if you get the hr bar). this will help you plant the rear to the ground. Just a few things to get you started......it never ends.