Internals for different power bands question

Turbo6Smackdown

Well-Known Member
I know about changing where your car's power can get laid down to the pavement through things like rear end gear/tire od, stall converter, turbo & turbine selection, and air/fuel ratios in first gear, but I never considered cam profile/lift/duration.

I realize that you can pick the wrong combination of components and destroy your bottom end. Would any of the experts here have a combo that would do that? I mean I want more upper end power than lower end. My car is not a track car, and if I don't have traction on the street the whole point of this car is worthless. Let's stay off of tires & pinion angle for this question because I can assure you it's a moot point. I'm trying to gear up for higher powerband internally. So what would be a decent combo in terms of say compression, & cam selection. I'd ask about the turbo selection too but I'm afraid that might be kicked to the turbo section of this board. Should I just stick with my engine's internals but go to a slower spooling turbo and a super tight converter to take the turbo out of the equation for as long as possible for the launch? Or will that just hurt the launch as when it does spool it'll start a wheelspin all over again. Tell me about cams that hurt the lower end.
 

TT/Ameasap

The White Blur
With my experience, the cam is not anything to look at for what your looking for. I have had stock to wild cams in these cars and the more aggressive you get with the cam, the more aggressive you get with the whole valvetrain. It adds up to a bunch of money you could have spent on turbo, converter, suspension, ect. The biggest trick I have actually done to my car is to go to a large diameter tire and lower gears. This helps with traction on the street big time. It depends on how fast you want to go.
 

rag231

Well-Known Member
You didnt mention which turbo you have. You could change the exhaust housing to a higher A/R to take some grunt off the low end. Exile Turbo made the MSBC-1 that fit nicely under the radio in the location that most people put the oil and water temp gauges. Do a search. Someone did a really nice pod with an engraved plate for theirs.
 

rag231

Well-Known Member
Most replies to a street only car will be leaning toward the low end power for stop light to stop light performance. What gear do you have in the car? I am guessing non 3.42. Everything in your combo screams performance, probably high 10 seconds. Have you ever ran it down the track, just for a testament of its power??
 

ITSAV6

It's my Granny's car!
Do a 2 stage boost controller, say 10-12# on low setting and whatever you want for high. Figure how much boost it will hook in first and make that your low setting.
 

Turbo6Smackdown

Well-Known Member
Most replies to a street only car will be leaning toward the low end power for stop light to stop light performance. What gear do you have in the car? I am guessing non 3.42. Everything in your combo screams performance, probably high 10 seconds. Have you ever ran it down the track, just for a testament of its power??

I just ran it at the track for the first time; 2.2 was the best short time anyone with tires under 4' wide was getting lol. Traction was worthless... I was battling a ton of false knock, and what I later learned was a super minor fuel pressure leak that turned into a full blown leak at the rail gauge aluminum 90* radius. Best this car went was 12.3 on 27psi lol. Yea. Lots of problems. Looking back I'm thinking first gear in my new trans was suffering too... At any rate my signature is up to date; if it's not in there it's stock. And higher than a 3.42 like 373 or higher would DESTROY ANY TIRE on this planet. My car's an oddity, and it's a real stubborn beast. My next guess is pinion angle adjustment even though one the Buick gods say's it's worthless. (I tend to believe him, his builds his own 9 second cars) But I gotta try it. I'm desperate. I gotta find a way to make this car launch on the street by possibly making it a dog down low on purpose. Even though it's a street car, it's actually not bad launching it with the wastegate actuator adjusted all the way out. The boost comes on late and by the time I'm out of the hole, my 27x10.5's can keep the traction.

"Sounds like you're burning rubber when the boost hits. Are you running the ET streets (bias ply?) in your sig?" Do I burn rubber? Nope. I ANNILHATE rubber. And we all know spinning loses races. And no, I'm not running a 30 x 12.5 tire either. The tire that's in my sig. is the biggest I'm going to run.
 

TurboTnZ06

Go on red!
You do not have too much power, you just can't put it down. Try changing things up, remove the ATR rear bar, remove the airbag, try lower tire pressures, one massive burnout, then smaller ones. My car lifts the front tire with stock suspension parts, KYBs and smaller tires (26x10) off the foot brake at the track. On the street it's ok, but I can spin them if I want, nothing will hook well on the street. Are your shocks really stiff? Won't let it transfer weight?
 

ITSAV6

It's my Granny's car!
I have almost the same combo and I have 1.6 60ft on all stock susp/even the bushings were stock. See if you have a extended pinion snubber. I had one years ago and it caused traction issues.
 
Top