Interesting 4.1 Stroker=265 cubes .

This is not a "Stroker Kit", it does not change the stroke only the bore.

What is the piston pin centerline to top of piston measurement??

Are the rods already machined for off-center crank??

Deep Enough
Donald McMullin
 
Originally posted by Donald McMullin
This is not a "Stroker Kit", it does not change the stroke only the bore.

What is the piston pin centerline to top of piston measurement??

Are the rods already machined for off-center crank??

Deep Enough
Donald McMullin


he calls it a stroker kit :) .I just came across it and found it interesting and thought I'd post it for those who maybe interested . the only info on the pistons I have are as follows : Comp HT : 1.31
, Pin Dia : .9272 , Weight 490 , Bore : 4.00"
 
Howdy,

other than having to run custom pistons, what are the implications of running 6.5" rods? I'm debating the rotating assembly for my 4.1 and for some reason it seems easier to find odd length, ie 6.5 or 6.25", for the wide journal cranks, of which I can get an awesome deal on. Any one know anything about using these rods?

Thanks,
 
"Stroker kit"...hehe..the guy is stroking something! FWIW, a 4.000" bore, 3.400" stroke 4.1 is 256 ci, not 265. Maybe he's dyslexic. ;)

Those pistons will result in a 8.9:1 CR motor with a nominal 45 cc chamber. Some of us like that, but it's unlikely to be a 16 psi boost pump gas motor. They are 351W stroker (416") pistons designed for use with a Chrysler rod bushed to a SBC pin..mostly irrelevant as they actually measure out nicely for use in a long rod 4.1 (pin height of 1.310" results in a stackup that's .020" in the hole). If I were going to roll the dice and run those pistons, I'd run them with a BIG ring gap. KB even has a special technical note recommending this.

The other problem with that particular auction is that those Oliver rods are almost certainly wide journal rods...he doesn't specify. If so, they'll need to be narrowed or a wide journal crank will have to be used ($$$). Nice rods, though!

CTX, the longer rods have several effects. They reduce piston speed and side loading, and generally raise the powerband. There are arguments on both sides as to whether short or long rod motors are better. It's a fact that probably every BIG horsepower S2 Buick ever built had longer than stock rods, though.

Avoid any rod longer than 6.5; there are a lot of 6.65 rods out there but with a 3.4" or longer stroke, the piston compression height required is too short for a reasonable ring stack.
 
Thanks for the info, though it does add more questions. First off since I'm using a production 8484 4.1 block I'm always looking for ways to increase the durability without expensive machine work so will going long rod increase the durability of the engine, particulary the block? Secondly since the its a pump gas drinking street motor that will see high booste on alky spray whats the best of the 6.5 or 6.35 or 6.25 rods to run to keep the low compression piston ring pack out of the pin hole? Finally for a predominately street driven engine with a stock 4.1 block is it worth going this route or should I just stick to the Eagle forging and stock rods. I can pick up the long rod wide journal setup for about $1400 and the pistons cost the same eitherway, though the extra cost of the rotating assembly will eat up the budget for the roller cam. Overall, which is the best durability for dollar option. Long rod wide journal or Eagle and stock rod and roller cam?

Thanks,
 
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