Installing Front Viking Coilovers

greeneyegi

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
The stock springs have a perch they sit in. Looks like a bunch of tabs that are curled down.
Do i Cut those off because the new springs dont sit in the perch correctly.
I thought i remember seeing something about this but cant find article. Might have been in instructions but i lost them already.
 

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I had them. Don't recall having to cut anything.
Call and ask??
Found instructions and no mention of the issue.
They are already closed DAAAAM!
Anyways Ill try again but it seems the coil spring rests against those tabs and it just doesnt seem like it would be stationary.
Ill report back.
 
I think these are the wrong springs....I did find online they say you might need to trim the perch but not cut. Heres a pic of the qa1 coilover springs i have and the original spring i was using and the new viking I recieved.
 

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Those aren't "coil overs" in the general sense of the word.
IMO, that's a coil spring/shock pkge with adjustable spring seat/ride hgt adjusters.
I bought a 4 corner set for my 8T6/LS car.
AIRC, the springs were in the 500# range.
You may be right and have the wrong springs.
 
I sent message and they stated they are the correct springs i need to grind the tabs to get to fit........OK im going to measure but i hope this wont keep from ever putting stock style back on in future, even though it wont happen.
I would really appreciate someone chime in on if they've done this mod to make them fit....
 
I sent message and they stated they are the correct springs i need to grind the tabs to get to fit........OK im going to measure but i hope this wont keep from ever putting stock style back on in future, even though it wont happen.
I would really appreciate someone chime in on if they've done this mod to make them fit....
they have two different versions... 1] that requires grinding tabs off... which is the small diameter spring on each side and 2] the "hybrid" version has a smaller diameter at the bottom adjustable spring seat and the upper is stock diameter that sits on the stock tabs...

hth- aaron
 
they have two different versions... 1] that requires grinding tabs off... which is the small diameter spring on each side and 2] the "hybrid" version has a smaller diameter at the bottom adjustable spring seat and the upper is stock diameter that sits on the stock tabs...

hth- aaron
yep with all the info i've gathered there's more sporting options available with the spring with keeper that goes inside the perch then the conicle ones, i'm going to try a small plasma cutter on the inside of the tabs and see how that works.
it's a real bad place to have to work on from jack stands
it seems to me this would be the real coilover style compared to the spring resting on frame .
i'll lyk how it goes
 
yep with all the info i've gathered there's more sporting options available with the spring with keeper that goes inside the perch then the conicle ones, i'm going to try a small plasma cutter on the inside of the tabs and see how that works.
it's a real bad place to have to work on from jack stands
it seems to me this would be the real coilover style compared to the spring resting on frame .
i'll lyk how it goes
or maybe a small air grinder or small cordless grinder.. also FWIW i bought a set of QuickJacks and those things have made life MUCH MUCH easier – they are great for people that have no room for 4 [or 2] post traditional lift... now i have so much room for activities... hahahaha
 
The springs that are up into the frame pocket like originals. Do not need the tabs cut. That is what locates the spring.

The tabs cut are for the 2.5" diameter springs. They need to be cut to make clearance for the skinny spring to go inside that area.
I trimmed mine but clamping each one with a pair of Vise Grips, metal fatiguing them and smoothing the remains with a small 2" disc.
 
The stock springs have a perch they sit in. Looks like a bunch of tabs that are curled down.
Do i Cut those off because the new springs dont sit in the perch correctly.
I thought i remember seeing something about this but cant find article. Might have been in instructions but i lost them already.
Update...
Ive got the coilovers bolted in top and the new umi arms installed.
I replaced the spindle with a stock one and I did the work to get the bracket installed.
Now the dam caliper wont fit between the rotor an bracket.
GD it.
It should be right but it seems the rotor should be pushed out a bit for this to work.
Should the rotor bearing seal butt all the way up to spindle?

1693112338988.jpeg
 

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Looks to me that the seal is not in the rotor as it should be.
I thought the same thing. Im goint to assemble the old spindle with the old rotor and bearings to confirm its not going all way on.
Are there different sized hubs?
Im wondering if baer used a different hub when installing the brakes originally. They are the ones who installed the fbody spindle originally.
 
Update...
Ive got the coilovers bolted in top and the new umi arms installed.
I replaced the spindle with a stock one and I did the work to get the bracket installed.
Now the dam caliper wont fit between the rotor an bracket.
GD it.
It should be right but it seems the rotor should be pushed out a bit for this to work.
Should the rotor bearing seal butt all the way up to spindle?

View attachment 394887

It may be that the other spindles are longer and pushed the rotor out a bit.
 
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