Installing a new turbo

[87-WE2]

As far as the regulator goes, thread the fitting before attaching the regulator.

As for the DP bolts, I had similar problems, but not with Allen heads. Make sure you use a good quality tool on them. Spray them tonight with PB blaster or some other penetrating lube. Before wrenching on them tomorrow, give them a good sharp whack with a ball peen hammer. If that doesn't work, you can always heat them with a torch, but that didn't work for me.

When installing your NEW turbo, put some anti-seize on those DP bolts!!!

 

[Williams3982]

I havent got the fitting off the regulator yet. Ive tried for almost 2 hours lol. In the a.m. Im going to just remove the whole fuel line and try removing that fitting with it off the car because it isnt moving. The previous owner must have removed it before because it is stripped some.

Just sprayed everything so I'm hoping the morning they are easy to remove. Will put some antisieze on it for sure. Will spark plug antisieze do the same trick?

 

[X Ray]

Began installing things today and DAMN what a pain in the ass lol. I think Jesus himself put on the fuel line on the bottom of the stock pressure regulator. Still stuck on the i gave up for the night. Where the Terry Houston DP connects to the turbo it has hex key bolts and i tried for about 10 mins and they didnt budge. Round two tomorrow.

PB Blast them tonight for round two...

 

[Williams3982]

Will WD40 do the same trick as PB?

 

[buddy]

Be sure to release the pressure in the fuel rail before disconnecting the fpr or you will get sprayed. I hooked up my fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve and released pressure through it. As stated above, thread the supply line before tightening the regulator to fuel rail because the fuel line angle is a hair off. I'm surprised your having trouble with the supply line, mine was pretty easy to access. Maybe hit it with some PB blaster and let it marinate. Also did the wastegate actuator last night. Back bolt is a little close to oil return tube but open end gets in there no problem. Use up that PB blaster, it will be a piece of cake tomorrow!!

 

[X Ray]

Will WD40 do the same trick as PB?

Use what you have .....I like Blaster better, but that will definitely help.

 

[buddy]

I havent got the fitting off the regulator yet. Ive tried for almost 2 hours lol. In the a.m. Im going to just remove the whole fuel line and try removing that fitting with it off the car because it isnt moving. The previous owner must have removed it before because it is stripped some.

Just sprayed everything so I'm hoping the morning they are easy to remove. Will put some antisieze on it for sure. Will spark plug antisieze do the same trick?

I'm pretty sure spark plug anti sieze has copper in it to be conductive. I'm not sure if that's what you want for the exhaust stuff.

 

[Williams3982]

Pressure is already dropped from disconnecting the other line , but at this point ill take a spray in the face to get that damn line off.

Yea it looks like whoever messed with it before had stripped it some and gorilla tightened it. Got everything sprayed with WD40 so hopefully it saturates.

 

[Williams3982]

Ok hopefully i make it that far tomorrow , i will go to the autoparts store and get some antisieze.

 

[buddy]

Do yourself a favor and buy a 16mm line wrench for that fuel line. If it started to strip, you don't stand a chance of getting it off with an open end.

 

[buddy]

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...2B8DCCDF48D7F068F470740C3C9AF&selectedIndex=0

 

[Williams3982]

Thanks for the info , i will go to Advanced Auto in the a.m. Hopefully they have one in stock. All i have at the moment is an open end and a set of vise grips, and your right they wasn't working at all.

 

[buddy]

Pressure is already dropped from disconnecting the other line , but at this point ill take a spray in the face to get that damn line off.

Yea it looks like whoever messed with it before had stripped it some and gorilla tightened it. Got everything sprayed with WD40 so hopefully it saturates.

What other line do you mean? Did you disconnect the 16mm fuel line from the bottom of the FPR?

 

[Williams3982]

The fuel line on the passenger side of the rail came off, the line on the bottom of the FPR is the one thats stuck on there.

 

[buddy]

The fuel line on the passenger side of the rail came off, the line on the bottom of the FPR is the one thats stuck on there.

Gotcha, don't waste your time without a line wrench, your just gonna get pissed off and do something stupid. Marinate that bad boy with some PB blaster a couple times a day and give it a shot with a line wrench. Youll be good to go.

 

[Williams3982]

Going to get one first thing , and your right i got beyond pissed and almost took a hammer to the FPR lol. I just stopped before i did though, soaked all the bolts a little bit ago, going to do it one more time before bed.

 

[87-WE2]

They usually keep anti-seize up by the register in tiny little packets like ketchup from McDonald's. Get the high-temp stuff. I don't think having copper in it would hurt the DP.

 

[wb's87]

The best way I found to get the downpipe bolts out is to let the motor warm up to full temp. It almost always works. If you just use brute force you will twist the bolts right off.

 

[Heisenberg]

Be careful not to drop anything in the exhaust manifold or injector holes.
Some times the simplest things are the ones you tend to look over .

Indeed
Like this

 

[Heisenberg]

As far as the regulator goes, thread the fitting before attaching the regulator.

As for the DP bolts, I had similar problems, but not with Allen heads. Make sure you use a good quality tool on them. Spray them tonight with PB blaster or some other penetrating lube. Before wrenching on them tomorrow, give them a good sharp whack with a ball peen hammer. If that doesn't work, you can always heat them with a torch, but that didn't work for me.

When installing your NEW turbo, put some anti-seize on those DP bolts!!!

An old trick for removing studs from the turbo exhaust housing is to heat the housing and hit it with a candle (wax), allowing the wax to wick in the threads.
Not sure if there is enough gap though for it to be effective in this case.