If you have fluke multimeter or an auto adjust meter could you go and do me a favor?

[Clark6]

If you have a multimeter I don't believe the kind or model matters but the kind I have is fluke 87, anyway if any of you have the time to do me a favor
tomorrow with the car just like it is, hood up, car off , could you please set the meter on resistance and go to your Waste gate solenoid and check the resistance between your pink/black wire to chassis ground and please tell me what you read?

I'm wondering if I'm reading a low resistance (7.5 ohms) And whether it should be there or not. Maybe i'm reading through a resistor, transistor or
something and I'm wanting to be sure before I connect everything back up I had en ecm solenoid fuse blow and trying to trace it down.

 

[Clark6]

I really would appreciate it.

 

[TurboDave]

Please clerify, when measuring.... plugged in, not plugged in, solenoid to ground or plug to ground?

 

[TurboDave]

OK, my fluke 87 read 4.5 ohms. and my Beckman read 4.3 ohms.

BTW, the pink/blk wire is the 12v source for the solenoid.

There are tons of things in parallel with that circuit, it's going to read pretty low.

What value were you expecting to see?

 

[Clark6]

Thanks Dave-- I'm looking for the plug only (pink/black) to chassis ground with the solenoid unplugged I also have my battery negative unplugged sorry about that, (shouldn't matter though as long as the key is not switched on. I'm getting anywhere from 7.5 to 8 ohms?

Here's the event that happened... I had my controls on vent, cold air
fan on hi, it ran a while and I was driving down town and it started smoking behind the dash. I cut it off and tried it again .. smoke. I cut it off left it off, the radio
dimmed when it was smoking but once I cut the vent off the radio came back on been playing ever since so I unhooked the fan motor under the hood and will later check to see if the
bearings are going out.

That was day 1 a day or 2 later I'm driving probably put about 25 miles on the car radio playing fine car running fine I just didn't cut the blower controls on .

day 3 Every thing is playing fine running fine then I noticed my tcc is not locking up. Checked the brake switch, checked the ecm sol fuse and it was blown. Car was
locking up fine on day 1 & 2. So I was going through a few fuses and made it lock up by jumping the pins and could hear the sol actuate in the transmission. Go down the road and it locks up the fuse blows again.

So I dig through here and some schematics and like you said there are several things in that circuit and was eliminating this and that. I disconnect c100 to see if its
grounded inside the car or under the hood. I put the meter on the waste gate plug with c100 disconnected the short went away . This lets me know it's not under the
hood but inside the fuse panel or after. Wiggled some wires the short went away on the Ecm solenoid fuse. Now it moved to the battery terminals on the fuse box and the cigarette lighter. The same 7.5, 8 ohms that was on the waste gate solenoid moved to the battery and the cig lighter Hot side of the fuse with the fuse pulled out.
If you know what I mean.

I don't want you to have to reset anything (chip settings) Dave I'll keep digging but maybe what I should have asked was what was the reading between the cigarette
lighter hot side or the battery terminals on the bottom of the fuse panel to chassis ground is reading. Because that's where its at now. The upper battery terminals on
the fuse panel is
reading a VERY high resistance like MEG ohms. Which is the way I think it's suppose to be. I'm wondering if the smoke or the burning smell may have gotten something
up there in that neighborhood but definitely would have thought it would have blown THAT cigarette lighter fuse and not the ecm solenoid.


I know this sounds like a lot of mumbo jumbo but let me get back at it digging around so that I can give you a more solid place to check if your able to.

 

[Clark6]

Maybe I got it. I left the meter this time with one lead on the cigarette lighter orange wire the other lead on chassis ground. I kept tracing the cigarette lighter orange wire it goes back to the fuse box but also there is a plug on the far left of the
fuse block black tan white orange that it goes to.
Same lower part of the plug also goes to the back fuel pump. I unplugged that plug the 8 ohms went away. I plugged it back opened the trunk it went lower resistance,
opened the trunk it went back to 7.5-8ohms. Traced the wire as far as I could see, and guess what.... it went to the opened/close door
switch :redface:

Closed the door or pushed the door button resistance went up to 29 K. All that wire out for nothing...lol. I went back and connected things back up , put all fuses in
and went back to the waste gate solenoid un connected put one lead on the pink/black the other lead to chassis ground and got
120 ohms or so , so maybe I'm in the
right direction now. I don't know where it went I just hope it doesn't come back. I'll try start up tomorrow & let you know what
happens.

The only thing that I done that I think made a difference was disconnected the bulkhead at c100?? I didn't find anything though. Oh well we'll see.

 

[salvageV6]

The door lights and the solenoid wiring are separate circuits.

The ECM/SOL fuse is hot only in Run, Bulb Test, and Start key positions.

The door lamp wiring and trunk lamp and underhood lamp wiring is hot at all times.

The low ohms reading on the ECM/SOL wiring Pink/Blk strp. wiring underhood and at the tranny solenoid is due to possibly reading other solenoid coils if hooked up.

It feeds the lockup solenoid via the brake switch, waste gate solenoid, cannister purge gas tank fume sucker solenoid, coolant fan delay relay low current power, EGR solenoid, and the A/C cutout relay.

If you have any of those in place you may want to remove those plugs to test the wiring only, I'm not sure how the grounds to those solenoids may be active, with the IGN Key OFF test, via control switches or the ECM grounds, removing the plugs to those listed devices will insure a valid test to the wiring only.

 

[Clark6]

Thanks Salvage I figured as much on all the solenoids connected I did my readings with some disconnected not all though I never saw a difference. I printed out pages of the schematic manual and disconnected what I could find one at a time, however once you take it loose from the c100 bulk head connector that took those out of the circuit
and I started inside the car.


So far so good I think I've fixed it however I don't know what I done to do so exactly; I took all sorts of stuff loose car looked like a squirrels nest.
I put everything back drove about 3 miles down the road I had lock up and no fuse blown so far so all is good for now thanks to both you guys and the board and Buick
manual.