Let me start with I have always wanted one of these black beauty ever since I seen one back in 94 at the local drag strip he was an out of towner and he killed every mustang there. So I finally was able to get a very clean all stock 67,000 mile car last summer. I just want it to run well not going to be on the strip. What I have done to the car this winter new high performance fuel pump hot wire 60lbs injectors with chip to match and cold air with k&n 9” and hydro boost. After I got these parts installed it ran good but I was unable to take it down the road because I had not worked the bugs out of the new break setup. After finally getting breaks to work I pulled out of the shop and revved the eng a few times it started running like crap cutting out and running real rich. Done some searching on here and found it my be the Maf I unplugged it the runs good with a small miss or cuttt out now and then. So what do y’all think bad maf? I know I need to get a boost gage and power logger and scanmaster gage just haven’t got that far. Thanks for the help! This forum is great!
I think I have a bad MAF
- Thread starter Opie
- Start date
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
One easy mechanic method of diagnosing a bad MAF is this.
Use a screw driver, preferably one with a rubber coated handle, with the engine running and lightly tap the MAF sensor body with the handle. If the engine stumbles or dies, there's a very good chance that the heating element inside the MAF is broken or about to completely break. This is common on stock MAF sensors.
Now, when you get a Scanmaster, you would be able to watch the MAF numbers and see it's behavior.
But the screw driver method will tell you alot. These types of issues can be very frustrating, just don't loose your patience. It's 33 year old technology we're working with. (1985 when the engineers where upgrading the "86 model. 1985- 2018)
Now, don't go ballistic when you tap it, but just barely tapping it should be enough. If it keeps running no matter how hard you tap it, then without a Scanmaster, you are back to hunting/trouble shooting.
Definitely get a Scanmaster asap, or borrow one from a local buddy.
Are there any trouble codes when it's running now? And if you have run the car with the MAF disconnected, it should trip a MAF trouble code. You'll need to disconnect the battery to reset that code.
You can use a paperclip to get the trouble codes, or Autozone will hook up a scanner for your, for free.
Let us know.
-Patrick-
Use a screw driver, preferably one with a rubber coated handle, with the engine running and lightly tap the MAF sensor body with the handle. If the engine stumbles or dies, there's a very good chance that the heating element inside the MAF is broken or about to completely break. This is common on stock MAF sensors.
Now, when you get a Scanmaster, you would be able to watch the MAF numbers and see it's behavior.
But the screw driver method will tell you alot. These types of issues can be very frustrating, just don't loose your patience. It's 33 year old technology we're working with. (1985 when the engineers where upgrading the "86 model. 1985- 2018)
Now, don't go ballistic when you tap it, but just barely tapping it should be enough. If it keeps running no matter how hard you tap it, then without a Scanmaster, you are back to hunting/trouble shooting.
Definitely get a Scanmaster asap, or borrow one from a local buddy.
Are there any trouble codes when it's running now? And if you have run the car with the MAF disconnected, it should trip a MAF trouble code. You'll need to disconnect the battery to reset that code.
You can use a paperclip to get the trouble codes, or Autozone will hook up a scanner for your, for free.
Let us know.
-Patrick-
TurboTnZ06
Go on red!
- Joined
- May 7, 2002
I would get the factory tach and boost gauge rebuilt to spec and keep it simple. Can't really run more than 15-16 psi boost on E10 pump gas anyways. Scanmaster is needed to figure out the air flow readings, that is pretty much mandatory. I'd also just ditch the stock maf if its bad, and get a 3 inch LT1 and a MAF translator. It will really help driveability. Use the scanmaster to set the TPS voltages too. Kirban sells good stock tested MAF sensors as well.
V6-Sauce
Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2008
I would use the best pump gas possible for sure.Get a scanmaster, A bad stock maf sensor happened to me a couple of times, Their like 200 bill's rebuild and their flakey. Mine the car won't start/stalls and black smoke came out of tailpipe/The second one was locked lean at 142 on the scanmaster and would never move regardless how much fuel I added to bring the #'s down to get it within +/-10 on the chip. They vary too lean or too rich/also my second rebuild one now shows knock on low boost when it shouldn't. It's like going to jupitor to figure it out and you can't fix it at the end. I agree go with the lt1 or ls1 with a transulator(keep the original on the shelf), way better.... less headaches. Don't buy a rebuild stock one. Check the coil pack(do a test with a volt meter)new spark plugs & wires.
Last edited:
Turbo Keith
TURBO KEITH
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2015
Hey Opie , Welcome to the VERY BEST TURBO BUICK site , You have some good advice here , let us know how things work out , TurboKeith
Turbo Keith
TURBO KEITH
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2015
Your on the right track my friend .
Listen to these guys.
That are extremely knowledgeable.
I'm new here as well and when I get stuck on something all these guys that posted are guys that I ask help for.
Start with the scan master. You need this to know what the engine is telling you it needs.
or you're just walking in the dark
That are extremely knowledgeable.
I'm new here as well and when I get stuck on something all these guys that posted are guys that I ask help for.
Start with the scan master. You need this to know what the engine is telling you it needs.
or you're just walking in the dark
For the translator you could find a good used one $100-$150. Look in the for sale section
The maf I’d say new.
Translators don't come up used all that often. Typically when people have one, they keep it much like a scanmaster or a powerlogger.
I keep remanned and tested LT1s and LS1 MAFs ready to go most all of the time. Those are a little more common.
No but he might get lucky. I did.
I seen two translators the other day.I’ll try to look for them tomorrow.
https://turbobuick.com/threads/scanmaster-2-1-translator-3”lt1-maf-alum-3”-maf-pipe.456622/
Here is a scan Master for sale
Here is a scan Master for sale
https://turbobuick.com/threads/scanmaster-and-powerlogger-2-2-36-blue-top-injectors.456576/
Another scan master.
But already sold
Just keep looking you’ll find it .
if you don’t mind spending the money you could get a new one anywhere
Another scan master.
But already sold
Just keep looking you’ll find it .
if you don’t mind spending the money you could get a new one anywhere
You have to get a scan master. It should be required before anyone buys one of these cars.
Also to piggyback off of what RUQWKNF said if you notice ANY difference after you tap the MAF then it is no good. My first bad one coded. My second bad one didn’t. I made the mistake after the first one crapped out of trying to keep it stock and got a used OEM one. Don’t make my same mistake.
Also to piggyback off of what RUQWKNF said if you notice ANY difference after you tap the MAF then it is no good. My first bad one coded. My second bad one didn’t. I made the mistake after the first one crapped out of trying to keep it stock and got a used OEM one. Don’t make my same mistake.
Take this advice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
