I still cant build any boost at the line going nuts!

I have a thread on this subject too. Is it possible to have too much vacuum? I installed Kirban's longer brake shoes in the rear along with new S-10 cylinders. I can hold up to 3400 rpm then car starts to move. A little more rpm's and tires squeal. I have no boost. I checked this with two different gauges. The second gauge has vacuum and boost. I noticed that I have 20 on the vacuum side. Needle has a long way to go to get to the boost side. Could my cam be too small? As rpm's rise, needle moves to boost side but doesn't quite get past 1 or 2 psi before the tires break free. I'm thinking I should start with less vacuum. Any thoughts?

What turbo and torque convertor are you running? Vacuum brakes or Powermaster?
 
What turbo and torque convertor are you running? Vacuum brakes or Powermaster?

Turbo is 2 months old. It is a 6157e. Converter is 3000 stall Vigilante. Local Buick tech agrees that I need a new cam. He says my power band needs to come down which would spool the turbo faster. I have a stock cam in the motor now. Engine builder wasn't a "Buick guy". Could it just be the cam sensor not functioning properly? I have a powermaster brake system.
 
Turbo is 2 months old. It is a 6157e. Converter is 3000 stall Vigilante. Local Buick tech agrees that I need a new cam. He says my power band needs to come down which would spool the turbo faster. I have a stock cam in the motor now. Engine builder wasn't a "Buick guy". Could it just be the cam sensor not functioning properly? I have a powermaster brake system.
The local Buick tech is full of $hit unless he thinks your cam is going flat. You have exhaust leaks, boost leaks, or the wastegate puck is not covering the hole. Jack Cotton had a 70 p trim (may have been slightly smaller, cant remember) on his car years ago and ran the stock cam with an AC converter. It spooled on the footbrake with no problems. Maybe he will chime in.
 
So has the wastegate been looked at yet? I dont see where it was mentioned and its the most obvious problem when spooling is an issue like this.
 
its ok-just frustrated-:D
Puck is sealed on mine bison-now what
ill have to get an adjustable prop. valve and work it:redface:
 
GBGN1 did you read post #17 and try it out??

Neutral then blip gas, hammer the brakes when vacuum peaks, tell us what happens.

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i can hold the brakes to about 2800-3000 rpm-then the wheels start turnen

Classic vacuum brake issue, try post #17's suggestion and if that doesn't work you're probably going to need a Transbrake to get that 70 turbo up on boost. You have the rear brake mods needed to hold and it appears as if the turbo is ready to spool but you don't have the line pressure to keep the drums from spinning. Nothing a $300 Stageright transbrake install couldn't fix. ;)
 
thanks yeah i tryed it help only a bit-as soon as boost just starts comen ,the tires start to fry.Looks like ill have to look into transbrake.:cool:
 
Put the e-brake on and hold the brakes. See if it works then:biggrin:
 
GBGN1- I might have some news for you. In my thread it was suggested that my converter was too lose. I thought it was 3000-3200 which should be a good match for my turbo. So I asked the transmission builder and he said I ordered a 3200-3500 stall. So he said it should be tightened to 2500 - 2800. Hope this helps.
 
No flame.DO NOT USE THE E BRAKE!I did this years ago and twisted the rear end housing.
I have a had a couple of customers GNs that had this problem.Try not to sit on the line too long building boost, as this just gives the car more time to build torque and push through.If you are just trying to get your best 60' then forget about cutting a good light.Just wait till the lights start to come down and then focus on what you are doing.It's tough to cordinate building boost and cutting a good light.I like to stab the throttle starting at say 1000 rpm.When you get to the point where you think the car is going to start pushing through then let the brake go and leave.You really need to get a feel for the point when the car is going to start pushing through.Staging as shallow as possible will also help not to trip the beam when the car starts pushing through.
The trans brake is your best bet and try and pull some fuel out on the bottom end.
Good luck.

Put the e-brake on and hold the brakes. See if it works then:biggrin:
 
Hey.I recognize that car!:cool:


If it is spinning the tires that quick you don't have an exhuast leak...

I would check your lines and P valve...

Sounds like you have the package, I am thinking you need more pressure to the back....
 
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