I hate my GN

LOL. Tempting but FattyMcTrickle offeres $67 bucks. You'll have to out do him. hahah. im feeling a little better about it today. I pumped the brakes up w/ the ignition off and i now have a little bit of a pedal. I will try bleeding them this weekend. If that doesnt work i think im going to vacuum.

FINE $200 bucks and a reach around ;)
 
SVORay said:
This is no lie...although It's probaly harder for those who's car is their DD. Anyhow, God made Winter so we can kick back, drink a few, lick our wounds or do some braging :wink: There is always next year and the way things sound, you're already a head of next season.


Thats unacceptable. It will be running #'s this season. LOL. Its my goal to get it up to Jack by the 18th. I started the build in march and i didnt drive it summer of 05 either. So, it needs to be running. I have another project in april 07 to start so i cant be messing with this one.

It sounds like someone may have to do an intervention on you :biggrin:

J/k, best of luck!
 
Nope. How do you do that? It already was filled with fluid as it came off of another car. Didnt think i had to do anythign with it. Motor sounds good and it is sucking the fluid from the right side of the resevior.

There is more to 'bench bleeding' a master cylinder than just loostening the line nuts and letting a little fluid run all over and getting things covered with fluid. The idea is to get the air out. Regardless of PM or vaccum, if you don't do it right, you WILL have air in your system. It doesn't matter if it is used, new or remanufactured, if it has been removed/replaced from or to the vehicle, it has air in it. If the system has air in it, it won't work...or at least won't work right.

If you are still trying to tackle this, and would like to know how to do it right, feel free to ask.

I'm about ready to talk to the mods and make a sticky on bench bleeding. This is getting rediculous typing the same thing over and over and over...
 
Im asking. HAHHA. i just tried bleeding the brakes and its still not as good as it should and i hear the motor running every time i hit the pedal. Your procedure should help i hope. Thanks.
 
converting over to vacuum brakes was the best modification i have done to my GN and i have about 8k of goodies on the car.

IMHO unless your car is all stock for concours judging or something the vacuum swap is the way to go for price and safety.
 
Brakes are overated. I say remove them. It will make driving around much more interesting. :D
 
Im asking. HAHHA. i just tried bleeding the brakes and its still not as good as it should and i hear the motor running every time i hit the pedal. Your procedure should help i hope. Thanks.

Ok, I've typed to the Mods. I am going to write a full bleeding procedure. If you bled the brakes at the wheels, you have start over again, sorry.

As a quick rundown.... Bench bleed the Power Master's master cylinder by first depressurizeing the system (10 pumps with the key off). Remove the lines to the wheels, and use a pair of fittings and clear flexible hoses (that would normally come with a new cylinder from the auto parts store) in place of them to reroute the fluid back into the bowl. Have an assistant press the pedal in and out SLOWLY to curculate the fluid. You will see all the air you missed work it's way out into the bowl. Don't let it go back into the lines. You'll get the hang of it pretty quick.

After you do this, reconnect the lines to the wheels and bleed as normal.
The motor should stop running so much after you do all of this.
If it doesn't, let me know. Something elase can be wrong.
 
how do solve the under boost stopping
withj vac brakes

I have waited soooooo long for someone to ask this question.

CONVERT TO POWERMASTER! :biggrin: HA!

Some have added a canister for reserve vacuum, or a vacuum pump. Otherwise see the above answer. The PM is cheaper than the hydroboost kits right now.
 
vacuum brakes have a vacuum resevoir. i've made plenty of panic stops with no problems. besides if you are braking under boost you need to quit driving your GN like a clown car and put your left foot on the dead pedal and use the right for gas and brake :D
 
I have waited soooooo long for someone to ask this question.

CONVERT TO POWERMASTER! :biggrin: HA!

Some have added a canister for reserve vacuum, or a vacuum pump. Otherwise see the above answer. The PM is cheaper than the hydroboost kits right now.


LOL

On my 1984 Monte I had a vacuum canister and occasionally ran into some scary moments.

I did do some research a power masters brake vacuum pump
 
Vacuum Brakes

Does any remember the 1989 Pontiac Trans Am that was powered by a 3.8 V6 turbo? They came from the factory with vacuum brakes and have never had an issue. I have vacuum brakes on my car and it is a non issue. Now with that being said you have to set them up properly. You will need to purchase a TTA vacuum block and make sure you have the TTA check valve on the booster. Trust me it will probably help your 60' times. There are too many people using vacuum brakes for it to be an issue.

By the way, what combination valve do you have on your car? You do know that the factory ones where recalled. If you are not running a brass combination valve I would replace it. The cast ones are junk.
 
And the great brake debate goes on and on and on....

It's a personal preference. I'm not saying vacuum brakes don't work, I just prefer the PowerMaster. They have their pluses and minuses. Vacuum brakes have more room for error. But there is no way in the world that a vacuum system has over 600psi of reserve pressure ready the exact moment you touch the pedal. The vacuum system has to build that pressure from less than 20 inches of vacuum and your foot on the pedal. I have never seen or felt a vacuum system with the reaction time of well maintained PowerMaster.

JMHO
 
And the great brake debate goes on and on and on....

It's a personal preference. I'm not saying vacuum brakes don't work, I just prefer the PowerMaster. They have their pluses and minuses. Vacuum brakes have more room for error. But there is no way in the world that a vacuum system has over 600psi of reserve pressure ready the exact moment you touch the pedal. The vacuum system has to build that pressure from less than 20 inches of vacuum and your foot on the pedal. I have never seen or felt a vacuum system with the reaction time of well maintained PowerMaster.

JMHO

I agree. I was just trying to help a guy out. I engage my line lock then let off the petal then reapply pressure to the pedal and it has great holding power on the line. Personally I have never had a problem but then again I purchased my car with vacuum brakes so I have no real reference. When I have driven other peoples cars with the PM I did not beat on them like my own.
 
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