I hate my GN

[87we410877]

Today i am especially pissed off at this POS. Seems like every week im spending $500 on the damn thing. I changed out my power master today because my pedal was going to the floor only to find that the on i got from a friend must be bad also. So basically i wasted another weekend and have to spend more money on this whore of a car. Sorry just venting a little.

 

[KevinB]

Thats why vacuum brakes rule:wink:

 

[turbot2496]

You paid $500 for a used powermaster?? You should be able to get one at the parts store for around $350 w/lifetime warranty. Should be able to sell the core anyway if you have an extra.

Go through the diagnostic chart real good on gnttype.org and make sure your not doing something wrong. Another guy on here is having problems because of some wires he cut.

 

[darkred87T]

I got a whole unit reconditioned from the auto parts store for $350 last year. My brother couldn't find one for under $500 this year.

I'm sure you checked for leaks, air in the lines, bled the master cly. properly, ect...right? Do you have a line lock? They can cause problems as well. It seems strange that trying whole other unit didn't fix it.

 

[turbot2496]

My brother couldn't find one for under $500 this year.

A friend got on from part plus I think about a week ago for about 370. Autozone lists them for 350 on their site but claimed they were out of stock.

 

[87we410877]

I didnt pay anything for it. But, now i have to buy a new one. Ive seen many post where GNttype.org had a diagram or a checklist or something of that nature. How can i get to that area of GNttype and do a search? Im looking for the check list for the powermaster. Anyone have a link? Thanks alot.

 

[FattyMcTrickle]

I'll take the ENTIRE car of your hands for $67 dollars.. Hell I'll even come and get it. Now tell me that isn't a good deal for you.

 

[-sk-]

Powermaster Diagnostics

Hope this helps.

 

[Quiky One]

I know exactly how you feel. Take a break from itand you will get the urge to work on it and drive it again. I think at some time, we have all felt this way.

Jason

 

[J666Z]

well... I have a solution to your problem.... just give the car to me and you won't have to fix it ever again.

 

[turbojimmy]

A friend got on from part plus I think about a week ago for about 370. Autozone lists them for 350 on their site but claimed they were out of stock.

Our local Parts Plus store was $600 after $300 off for the core. They are going way up in price. If you can still find a $350 one you should snag it.

I got a used rebuilt one from someone here and it worked great - it's the luck of the draw I guess.

Here's how my 2006 went with the GN:
- start it up after its winter nap, transmission is shot
- replace transmission ($$$$), torque converter fails
- replace torque converter ($$$), fuel pump fails
- replace fuel pump ($), fuel pressure gauge fails
- replace fuel pressure gauge ($$ electronic Autometer), while re-assembling the trim (fuel gauge is on the a-pillar) I used the wrong screw (too long) and cracked the windshield ($$)
- working on the FP gauge requires unlatching the left t-top (glass); I forgot to latch it. It flies off and disintegrates on the concrete highway median
- replace t-top ($$) and finally get to the track with the car and it's a little slow due to an exhaust leak: right header gasket has blown out at the head
- replace header gasket ($); right header cracks open

Somewhere in there I replaced the Powermaster, too. I had the header welded and went to the track yesterday with a new race chip. Everything was holding together and the air was great (mid-40s and dry). I paid $30 to get in, $45 for fuel and could only get in 2 runs because some fool forgot to put the plug in their rear and squirted heavy gear oil the length of the track. On those 2 runs I ran the slowest MPH in 2 years.

I'm done for 2006. Sometimes you just have to walk away for a while and come back. I'll try again next year.

Jim

 

[VinsGN]

I’m not convinced that a Reman PM is any better than a good know good used unit. My accumulator has been slowly crapping out over the summer so my PM motor has increasingly been clicking on more and more to the point now it runs almost constantly. Just ditch the whole PM thing and get a vacuum set up. Vacuum is cheaper, safer and parts are available.

 

[87we410877]

Our local Parts Plus store was $600 after $300 off for the core. They are going way up in price. If you can still find a $350 one you should snag it.

I got a used rebuilt one from someone here and it worked great - it's the luck of the draw I guess.

Here's how my 2006 went with the GN:
- start it up after its winter nap, transmission is shot
- replace transmission ($$$$), torque converter fails
- replace torque converter ($$$), fuel pump fails
- replace fuel pump ($), fuel pressure gauge fails
- replace fuel pressure gauge ($$ electronic Autometer), while re-assembling the trim (fuel gauge is on the a-pillar) I used the wrong screw (too long) and cracked the windshield ($$)
- working on the FP gauge requires unlatching the left t-top (glass); I forgot to latch it. It flies off and disintegrates on the concrete highway median
- replace t-top ($$) and finally get to the track with the car and it's a little slow due to an exhaust leak: right header gasket has blown out at the head
- replace header gasket ($); right header cracks open

Somewhere in there I replaced the Powermaster, too. I had the header welded and went to the track yesterday with a new race chip. Everything was holding together and the air was great (mid-40s and dry). I paid $30 to get in, $45 for fuel and could only get in 2 runs because some fool forgot to put the plug in their rear and squirted heavy gear oil the length of the track. On those 2 runs I ran the slowest MPH in 2 years.

I'm done for 2006. Sometimes you just have to walk away for a while and come back. I'll try again next year.

Jim

Jim, i think we need to drink some beers and laugh it out. HAHA. Were in the same boat.

 

[87we410877]

well... I have a solution to your problem.... just give the car to me and you won't have to fix it ever again.

LOL. Tempting but FattyMcTrickle offeres $67 bucks. You'll have to out do him. hahah. im feeling a little better about it today. I pumped the brakes up w/ the ignition off and i now have a little bit of a pedal. I will try bleeding them this weekend. If that doesnt work i think im going to vacuum.

 

[at7we2]

I know exactly how you feel. Take a break from itand you will get the urge to work on it and drive it again. I think at some time, we have all felt this way.

Jason

well said brother! :biggrin:

 

[ChrisCairns]

Did you bleed the master cylinder on the new set up before you installed it?

 

[87we410877]

Did you bleed the master cylinder on the new set up before you installed it?

Nope. How do you do that? It already was filled with fluid as it came off of another car. Didnt think i had to do anythign with it. Motor sounds good and it is sucking the fluid from the right side of the resevior.

 

[SVORay]

If that doesnt work i think im going to vacuum.

That would be my adivce

Take a break from it and you will get the urge to work on it and drive it again. I think at some time, we have all felt this way.

This is no lie...although It's probaly harder for those who's car is their DD. Anyhow, God made Winter so we can kick back, drink a few, lick our wounds or do some braging :wink: There is always next year and the way things sound, you're already a head of next season.

Best of luck
Ray

 

[87we410877]

This is no lie...although It's probaly harder for those who's car is their DD. Anyhow, God made Winter so we can kick back, drink a few, lick our wounds or do some braging :wink: There is always next year and the way things sound, you're already a head of next season.


Thats unacceptable. It will be running #'s this season. LOL. Its my goal to get it up to Jack by the 18th. I started the build in march and i didnt drive it summer of 05 either. So, it needs to be running. I have another project in april 07 to start so i cant be messing with this one.

 

[ChrisCairns]

Nope. How do you do that? It already was filled with fluid as it came off of another car. Didnt think i had to do anythign with it. Motor sounds good and it is sucking the fluid from the right side of the resevior.

Since it's already on the car you can just make certain the fluid level is correct, then unscrew the front line connection right where it comes out of the master cylinder. Fluid will start to drip out. Let it drip for a minute or so then screw it back in. Do this with the back line connection also.

You're supposed to bleed a new master cylinder that's empty of fluid ... you do this on the bench before it's mounted on the car, so I'm not certain that this procedure will help you since you said it was already full of fluid.

In my experience a pedal that goes to the floor has air somewhere in the system. Try what I suggested first...it only takes a few minutes. It just seems suspicious that you have the same symptom with both the old and new PM.