How to DYNO!???

[Pronto]

Had to do the same with mine.

 

[TireFryer]

your PowerLogger file shows the run starting at 5100, like you said. The Excel data shows peak power and torque around 3800, so something doesn't jive.

what you're calling converter "capability" is misunderstood in my opinion (any additional (actual) info is invited from the peanut gallery). When the RPMs are not rising at WOT, the converter is using its stator to multiply torque, its not an inefficient mode of operating (or your MPH wouldnt climb like it does). Once the stator is "done" the sprag uncouples and you are left with whatever efficiency (actual 'slip') and the RPM's climb. The trick is to match this behavior with your power level and power band.

Bob

Yeah the excel thing was a rough thing to try and calculate some kind of torque number. It’s not perfect by any means but maybe gives some hint to what the torque might be

 

[salvageV6]

Don't you have a lockup switch in the ashtray?
Get the car rolling 45 or so in 3rd lock it up via switch that would take about 10 seonds, then rapidly increase the rpms while it's locked up to get into PE, but you don't just mat it on the rollers take a few seconds to get there.
Not sure how it could unlock if you have a switch?
Nice looking car that's for sure.

 

[Mr.Spool]

I can't see the log file but 34ish seconds in sounds like some knock right before you let out

 

[Mr.Spool]

Not sure if you can look at the log, but I’m thinking I’m about maxxed out on my converters capability. It flashes right to 5100 rpm and holds till the wheels catch up, then it takes a second or two to get to 5600 and done. I’m THINKING I’m overpowering the converter, but what say you?

When did you lock it?
If you left it unlocked It will eventually fluid lock but that will mean you need more rpm to get to a coupling point.
Wont happen with a stock cam
Just not enough rpm range.
Those converters are really inefficient unlocked usually.
Locking them is where you would need to be and since your on the stock cam that would need to be earlier in the rpm range.
Depending on combination
slip % target to get the car faster can vary but it needs to be in a certain window depending on goals.
Unlocked and knowing what I've seen with that combo my guess is its outside that window.
If you could look at wheelspeed and driveshaft speed you could easily see that
An example of the window I'm talking about is 20% slip on a car going down the entire track is too much loss but going to 4% isnt optimal either.
Your majic number could be 8%

 

[TireFryer]

@Mr.Spool So I tried to lock it via the chip at 60 mph but i messed up and it unlocked once, and relocked and ruined the run.

In the pl file it picked up some false knock when the boost first came on because the downpipe cutout hits my frame rail but it instantly went away. You might’ve heard it slam into the limiter at 5600 rpm? I have it set in the tr6. Then again I don’t know what audible knock sounds like so.

Here’s the video of that bad run trying to lock the converter.

So it locked, unlocked, then locked as boost was coming up.

 

[TireFryer]

Here’s what it looks like on the NON locked pull

 

[TurboBob]

The PowerLogger software can be shared, distributed, and posted. It doesn't require "installation" on your computer, just run it.

Here is a link to it

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jbhsja95gt7sara/PLC.exe?dl=1

 

[Mr.Spool]

And here’s a proper rpm based dyno graph that my buddy made. Converted from time based to rpm and it looks like a real curve. View attachment 394903

I hope it's not the real curve
The lays overs way to early
It peaks up early and nice and loses power all through the rpm
Torque takes massive dive as well

 

[TireFryer]

I hope it's not the real curve
The lays overs way to early
It peaks up early and nice and loses power all through the rpm
Torque takes massive dive as well

It’s rough. If you look at the Rpm’s. It was simple math to calculate like the dyno software normally would.

Here’s the actual time based sheet I got. When it drops off super hard, that’s when I hit the limiter

 

[TireFryer]

Well. Contacted precision industry’s… I Have a 9.5” single disc lockup with roughly 3200 stall. And the part number told them that it’s 20+ years old. Sooooooo……? Husek converter time once the new motor is finished?

 

[salvageV6]

You shouldn't need a new motor.... the old one hasn't been run anywhere near it's potential even with that converter.
I have a 0 pump Vigilante single disk 20 years old in the GN, 3000 stall, 11 second timeslip in 6 passes, locked up in 3rd gear around 80mph.
GN wasn't on the dyno. full weight car like the WE4 that was, WE4 has a Protorque 3200 single disk lockup that was locked in 3rd.
Good luck, makes me wish I was employed again, or young again lol.

 

[TireFryer]

Motors got a mad ring ridge, could easily grab it with my fingernail, visible ridge… and it smokes a good bit out the breathers under boost I clean them every few months, they get filled with oil… also burns a decent amount of oil… 1qt every 3000ish miles. Smokes on startup hot and cold.. its wore out Here’s the only pics I have of the inside of the engine back from 2019 when I had it apart. 16 y/o me fixed some issues on a crazy budget and somehow it hasn’t kicked the rods out. Maybe I’ll just let it eat

 

[salvageV6]

Both my cars are identical to yours, 1 qt. between changes, excepting any ring ridge, checked that when I did the head gasket on the GN.
Been that way for 100K miles too, a quart of oil is cheap at walmartsky. My cars also leak a bit, heard that's a rare problem with these cars.
Well you seem to like taking them apart so go for it, with the heads and roller cam. you probably should keep the A/F back to the "insane" levels under 11.
Otherwise you could just drive it for another 100K.....
Nice shiny pistons and I will go out on a limb and say you won't be blowing it up any time soon, your wallet? oh yeah!
Any idea how many miles are on the motor?

 

[TireFryer]

Both my cars are identical to yours, 1 qt. between changes, excepting any ring ridge, checked that when I did the head gasket on the GN.
Been that way for 100K miles too, a quart of oil is cheap at walmartsky. My cars also leak a bit, heard that's a rare problem with these cars.
Well you seem to like taking them apart so go for it, with the heads and roller cam. you probably should keep the A/F back to the "insane" levels under 11.
Otherwise you could just drive it for another 100K.....
Nice shiny pistons and I will go out on a limb and say you won't be blowing it up any time soon, your wallet? oh yeah!
Any idea how many miles are on the motor?

70,000 to my knowledge. But it could be 170,000… Pedals and condition of the car say 70,000.