How to DYNO!???

Had to edit out the top secret A/F ratio graph, don't want any "gurus" getting a heart attack. :p
11.?-12.? with no KR worked for me, 10 years after the car was totaled in '94, and drove it until 2014 daily.
Nicely repeatable too. :)
I'd up the timing to 21* and lean it out a bit to make some power. :cool:
Still on the original head gaskets at 201K on this car, Buick built me a good motor. :D
Even I couldn't destroy it. o_O
IMG_0684aa.jpg
 
TireFryer said:
It’s gonna take everything in me to not put a bottle of octane booster in it and turn it up to like 32 psi. Don’t trust the stock pistons. I’ll try and command a lockup in third at the lowest mph I can and test it on the drive there.
Click to expand...
A lack of head studs is about the only thing I'd be leery of at that level, the stock pistons should be fine. Just don't let it knock. A bottle of VP octanium unleaded would be good and cheap insurance. Subscribing for results when you reschedule. I'd run it how you drive around on the street though JMO.
 
It’s rescheduled for August 27th. I’ll definitely get video and graph pictures. I’ll run it at the 26psi I run on the street. The car has felpro 9441pt gaskets when I did them 4 years ago if I remember correctly (stock style graphite, didn’t need them but I took the heads off cuz I was a retarded 16year old who didn’t know that you don’t break the factory seal unless you have to….) with arp head bolts torqued to 85 lb-ft. I get 2 pulls so I’ll run it just as it sits, and if it’s good I’ll dial in some timing into it and up the alky spray, and lean it out a little bit.

Oh. And I bought a new alternator. So no more 12.1 volts at wot:)
 
Last edited:
salvageV6 said:
I lied. :oops:
After several hours of searching the basement I found the printouts. Being a retired hoarder has its benefits.
425.4 HP and 501.8 TQ and that was at 25 psi. per the notes.
Best part of that day besides the numbers, were Brians' ie. "Wagons" scallops wrapped in bacon on his grill.
I miss NEBRA, and of course all the work he put into organizing events for us New England guys. :cool:
Found a pile of timeslips too, most good for a laugh at how bad I drive 60ft. etc., but a few I'm gonna frame. :)
PS: Don't keep your foot in it past 5000 rpm's, there's not much power up there.... :p
Click to expand...
Yeah, I miss the old NEBRA meet-ups too. I tripped over a pair of GN wheels the other day I bought from Brian at one of the picnics at his house. Always a lot of fun.

I ran my GN at Kinetic Motorworks on their dyno shortly after they installed it. It was only 1/4 mile from my house. They had trouble getting a reliable spark signal and the RPM reading was all screwed up. I wonder if it was reading the lost spark? I would think a dyno guy that knows what he's doing should be able to figure it out. The HP and TQ numbers were way off. Like 200 HP and 500 TQ. They're a Subaru shop so they were out of their element. It was a DYNOmite dyno..
 
The proper way to dyno is to pull plugs and read them as boost and timing is increased.
Proper cool down of engine and transmission especially if you plan to lock the converter in 3rd.
I prefer the hub dynos personally
Good luck
 
379whp. Time based run lol. So I don’t know the torque. But calculations say around 540tq. Correction was set for a 85° day with bad air, and the DA was insane and it was 60° so it probably made around 400wheel hp. Red run is unlocked converter and blue is trying to lock it but I didn’t mat it so it unlocked a couple times. I’m happy. But it’s time to get a cam and heads as the power instantly falls off lol
IMG_4868.jpeg
 
TireFryer said:
379whp. Time based run lol. So I don’t know the torque. But calculations say around 540tq. Correction was set for a 85° day with bad air, and the DA was insane and it was 60° so it probably made around 400wheel hp. Red run is unlocked converter and blue is trying to lock it but I didn’t mat it so it unlocked a couple times. I’m happy. But it’s time to get a cam and heads as the power instantly falls off lolView attachment 394897
Click to expand...
You dont need heads cam to make more power😉
You need better fuel.
More boost less timing
Or less boost and more timing.
You will make alot more power if the boost is raised and timing/afr is adjusted.
If you wanted to stay in the conservative boost/ range that you are at(mid 20s) on a better fuel you could of added timing leaned the car down and picked up alot more power.
You did well with pump fuel and conservative tune👍
 
Mr.Spool said:
You dont need heads cam to make more power😉
You need better fuel.
More boost less timing
Or less boost and more timing.
You will make alot more power if the boost is raised and timing/afr is adjusted.
If you wanted to stay in the conservative boost/ range that you are at(mid 20s) on a better fuel you could of added timing leaned the car down and picked up alot more power.
You did well with pump fuel and conservative tune👍
Click to expand...
I’ll post the powerlogger file in a few. I’m overpowering the converter. Flashed right to 5100 and held there and then ran to the 5600 limiter. Tickled 29 psi on the hit and settled around 27-28. 17° timing and a 10.7:1 afr at wot lol. Tried to lock the converter on the second run(blue) but it unlocked because I lifted slightly and ruined the run lol. There’s always next time. I’ll get videos and logs posted in a bit. Oh I made more HP than a heads cam ws6 TA and a cammed 5.0 mustang. Highest tq out of everyone by a lot
 
Here's my powerlogger file. Hint of knock but its my exhaust hitting the frame. I put a rubber pad in there and that spike went away. So ignore it.
 

Attachments

  • dyno run 1.dat
    203.3 KB · Views: 25
And here’s a proper rpm based dyno graph that my buddy made. Converted from time based to rpm and it looks like a real curve.
Image 8-27-23 at 5.12 PM.jpeg
 
Mr.Spool said:
You dont need heads cam to make more power😉
You need better fuel.
More boost less timing
Or less boost and more timing.
You will make alot more power if the boost is raised and timing/afr is adjusted.
If you wanted to stay in the conservative boost/ range that you are at(mid 20s) on a better fuel you could of added timing leaned the car down and picked up alot more power.
You did well with pump fuel and conservative tune👍
Click to expand...
Not sure if you can look at the log, but I’m thinking I’m about maxxed out on my converters capability. It flashes right to 5100 rpm and holds till the wheels catch up, then it takes a second or two to get to 5600 and done. I’m THINKING I’m overpowering the converter, but what say you?
 
your PowerLogger file shows the run starting at 5100, like you said. The Excel data shows peak power and torque around 3800, so something doesn't jive.

what you're calling converter "capability" is misunderstood in my opinion (any additional (actual) info is invited from the peanut gallery). When the RPMs are not rising at WOT, the converter is using its stator to multiply torque, its not an inefficient mode of operating (or your MPH wouldnt climb like it does). Once the stator is "done" the sprag uncouples and you are left with whatever efficiency (actual 'slip') and the RPM's climb. The trick is to match this behavior with your power level and power band.

Bob
 
We had the same tach signal issue with my pulls.
We marked the balancer and used a stand-alone pickup that's used with diesels.
It worked well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
First time on the dyno with the Buick!
Replies
1
Views
279
mblum
M
6gunn
knock from valvetrain
Replies
16
Views
587
6gunn
6gunn
L
Lock up with F.A.S.T grey box
Replies
0
Views
515
Lee main
L
D
Pass state inspection.
Replies
1
Views
534
TexasT
TexasT
TireFryer
12.9 1/4 street pass LOG!
Replies
17
Views
1K
Dan SS2471
Dan SS2471
Top