How to DYNO!???

TireFryer

TireFryer

The New Kid
Joined
Dec 21, 2001
I may be going to a dyno event this weekend. What’s the best way to run one of these cars? Third gear is 1:1 so just floor it in third? I have a lockup converter, should I jump the ALDL port and force lock the converter for the whole run or just run it unlocked?
 
Third gear pull. Roll into it to avoid an unwanted downshift. Tell the dyno tech when to let out. ie pull to 5900.
This pull goes from 5000 to 6000

There were several attempts with unwanted tire spin. The tech was just getting on it a bit too soon.
 
dynoman said:
You want to do the pull in 3rd gear . Watch and listen to the run , you can here it shift through the gears to 3rd , stabilize in third then the run begins .
Click to expand...
Should I let the converter just stay unlocked? I’m assuming it’s not worth the couple extra numbers trying to lock it.

Hoping for like 325 wheel hp at 26 psi lol
 
Lock it up after it hits third gear. it's worth it and the way you would race it.
3rg gear roll, no flooring, but you need to get into PE mode quick enough as the rpms climb.
Good luck, but I'm betting you won't need it. :cool:
 
It’s gonna take everything in me to not put a bottle of octane booster in it and turn it up to like 32 psi. Don’t trust the stock pistons. I’ll try and command a lockup in third at the lowest mph I can and test it on the drive there.
 
Both my cars had well over 100K miles on them before any dyno. or race days going for those 11 second slips on pump and alky.
My pistons are 'Holy' from the Buick Gods, luckily not from KR. ;)
You will be fine, gonna be honest I floored it not knowing how to do it properly first time I drove on the dyno., also cleared out the garage room at a NEBRA event in RI with water and soot from the 1.5 hour drive and condensation etc. that was in the smashed up WE4 daily driver.
When the smoke and soot cleared had 420 to the rear wheels and beat out the aluminum headed, race gas burning, Mopar 383 with open headers. That car only weighed about 2K pounds and was a 10 second cute little noisy pup bodied race car on a trailer. I'll never forget the look on the guys face that owned it when they saw the chart. o_O
I think it made the most power of all the Buicks that day with stock heads and cam. on pump and alky. :)
Fun times in the olden days, welcome to the 1990's. ;):p
Some dyno's used to have trouble getting a tach. signal, make sure that's stable and working for the pulls, and make sure they run the big fan in front of the radiator for air flow.
That's about all I got if it pulls on the street it will pull on the dyno. :cool:
 
salvageV6 said:
Both my cars had well over 100K miles on them before any dyno. or race days going for those 11 second slips on pump and alky.
My pistons are 'Holy' from the Buick Gods, luckily not from KR. ;)
You will be fine, gonna be honest I floored it not knowing how to do it properly first time I drove on the dyno., also cleared out the garage room at a NEBRA event in RI with water and soot from the 1.5 hour drive and condensation etc. that was in the smashed up WE4 daily driver.
When the smoke and soot cleared had 420 to the rear wheels and beat out the aluminum headed, race gas burning, Mopar 383 with open headers. That car only weighed about 2K pounds and was a 10 second cute little noisy pup bodied race car on a trailer. I'll never forget the look on the guys face that owned it when they saw the chart. o_O
I think it made the most power of all the Buicks that day with stock heads and cam. on pump and alky. :)
Fun times in the olden days, welcome to the 1990's. ;):p
Some dyno's used to have trouble getting a tach. signal, make sure that's stable and working for the pulls, and make sure they run the big fan in front of the radiator for air flow.
That's about all I got if it pulls on the street it will pull on the dyno. :cool:
Click to expand...
How much boost were you running? To make that number? Stock bottom end?
 
Yeah both cars still stock Buick built, new timing chains/gears, it was a dynojet, 26 psi. peak, since I had a peak boost recorder I made, I wasn't logging anything excepting direct scan which didn't have boost recording at that time. Only gauge I looked at racing or on the dyno. was the Knock Gauge for Red. Too much other stuff going on for me like blowing brake lines at the track and blowing smoke in the dyno. room. :oops:
People have run a lot more than that though so just run what you would run on the street that you have tried.
I had a BSTC with two stock boost solenoids with the boost knob cranked, luckily I drilled the wastegate hole in the PTE51 turbo too big so I couldn't run more than 27-28 psi. unless I wired the flapper closed which was never an option for me.
Have fun, if you get 3 pulls you can always up the boost for #3. :eek:
Makes me want to go find the old graphs, hopefully there's still some inkjet lines still on the paper, it's been a while.... o_O
 
I lied. :oops:
After several hours of searching the basement I found the printouts. Being a retired hoarder has its benefits.
425.4 HP and 501.8 TQ and that was at 25 psi. per the notes.
Best part of that day besides the numbers, were Brians' ie. "Wagons" scallops wrapped in bacon on his grill.
I miss NEBRA, and of course all the work he put into organizing events for us New England guys. :cool:
Found a pile of timeslips too, most good for a laugh at how bad I drive 60ft. etc., but a few I'm gonna frame. :)
PS: Don't keep your foot in it past 5000 rpm's, there's not much power up there.... :p
 
Well shoot. I’ll make sure it hits 26psi on the drive there. No knock etc. I run at 10.6:1 afr at wot. Should I lean it out or? I know it won’t knock at that number. Sounds like the car might surprise me.. I’ll set my rev limiter to like 5200 or similar. Roll into it in third as to not downshift and let it eat. Outdoor dyno session so hopefully it doesn’t get rained out.
 
Don't know about a rev. limiter but 5800 rpm was about 300 HP. :p
No knock is no knock, but I was closer to 11.6 than 10.6.
If you could do 10.9 or 11.0 with 0 knock I would try that, on the street first to make sure.
My car has SMC type alky. kits with staged nozzles and denatured alky., so I'm not gonna guess what will work for you but it sounds rich from my couch. ;)
Not sure what an outside dyno. is. I don't know anything about portable dyno's???
 
Remember you can get different numbers from dyno to dyno. They're really useful to see if a change gives you more power, not always as useful to compare numbers with folks who used other dynos.

Might be interesting to keep your car as-is and get a baseline run, then lean it out a little and see what that change actually does to your power.

Should be a lot of fun either way!
 
I’ll try that if I get 2 or 3 runs. I can change it super easy in the powerlogger. I’m gonna leave the timing at 19° in third (chip default, I usually run 17° on the streets for extra extra safety lol) and see if it knocks on the drive there. So. 26 psi, 19° timing, and 10.6:1 afr and see what it does then tune from there.
 
1691290674673.jpeg
This is my pull , slowly easing in to it to keep it from down shifting , I was a little concerned it was mid 11s AFR no KR . He went WFO and it went 10's and did not recover. sad part I forgot to hit save on the logger
 
Make sure you have a good cool fan blowing thru your InterCooler, If you can get some nice cool air flowing, you'll see a little more hp, & tq. For best results, early in the morning.
 
Lean is mean.... o_O :cool:
Both my alky. chips have 23* in 1st and 2nd and 21* in third for timing, Erics 5.7 and Bobs extender alky. chips.
10.6 is a bit rich for me, I'll guess 375 HP.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
First time on the dyno with the Buick!
Replies
1
Views
275
mblum
M
6gunn
knock from valvetrain
Replies
16
Views
586
6gunn
6gunn
L
Lock up with F.A.S.T grey box
Replies
0
Views
515
Lee main
L
D
Pass state inspection.
Replies
1
Views
534
TexasT
TexasT
TireFryer
12.9 1/4 street pass LOG!
Replies
17
Views
1K
Dan SS2471
Dan SS2471
Top