How much do you trust JB Weld? MAP sensor

[TR Custom Parts]

Just messing around and did a little experiment with the 2 bar sensor taken off the GN when I went to a 3 bar for the alky kit. Thinking about running new lines for all the stock vacuum lines and didn't want to go the plastic hose route and compression fittings.

Cut the nub off the end of the MAP sensor and then cut down and drilled out an AN adapter for a snug fit over the MAP sensor. Seated in some JB Weld. Was a real snug fit over the MAP so wondering if this will hold up to boost? Will run the compressor to it to see what happens.

 

[earcher1]

ill tell you what mark,on a proporly prepped surface the old jb has bailed me out more than once. and it lasted till now as far as i ever knew. that stuff is strong as heck when it binds well to the suface its on. i think it will work.

 

[Boost231]

i think you will be fine.

 

[blackgn1]

I used it on a cracked intake coolant nipple this week. Even with the heat of the coolant running thru it it won't give. Think it would take dynamite to get it loose.

 

[Phoneguy]

Great idea...That stuff is awesome, I see no problem with that. I broke a chunk off the filler neck on my pickup truck a few years ago at a gas station, repaired with JB Weld and is still holding perfect.

Bryan

 

[INEEDAGN]

I repair broken plastic mounting tabs on headlights and taillights all the time with jb weld. I used it across the whole bottom of the gas tank in my old wagon and it took 10 years to start SEEPING gas. I'd scuff the surface of the plastic and not leave it smooth. The bigger the nipple is that gets put on it, the bigger the surface area for the PSI to work against and more likely it'll break. But it'll hold fine.

 

[fuzzyGN]

I actually repaired an old original Vega 4 cylinder block with it. I used it where the coolant had eaten up the front cover area and again where the machinist cut too far for sleeves and came out the bottom of the block! That was interesting. Had at least 10K miles on it that way.

 

[TurboBob]

It will probably work. But since you are switching to AN line to make the system more reliable, this is the opposite...... If something happens to the MAP sensor, the alky stops.

Personally I'd use an unmodded MAP sensor and pay attention to the hose, or switch to something like an AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor and use AN line with that.

Bob

 

[Nick Micale]

It will probably work. But since you are switching to AN line to make the system more reliable, this is the opposite...... If something happens to the MAP sensor, the alky stops.
Bob

I am with Bob on this one.

Using JB weld on plastic has never worked out for me?

For the MAP sensor I use 3/8" 300 psi push lock air brake hose. Once it is on the MAF, it must be sliced to remove.

We just replaced an engine for a customer and when replacing it we found NO MAF signal at the computer and in Bob's words, "BTW, if the maf fails on a car with alky, it may cause the headgaskets to exit the engine"!

 

[jasjamz]

Agreed, I don't roll the dice on alky cars when it comes to that map sensor. I has a stock plastic line break on me recently. I though about something like you're trying but with the small air hose fittings. I though about the map sensor cracking and not seeing the correct psi and passed on the idea. Would look nice but too risky Mark.

 

[turbo nasty]

Trim the bump off the stem/nipple on the MAP and run a compression fitting to either male or Female NPT then simple run a NPT to AN fitting and your good. No jb weld to worry with. Not sure isf they make it which they probably do a Compression to AN fitting would work as well.

 

[turbofabricator]

I would have drilled and tapped the MAP sensor with a 1/8" pipe (or 1/16" pipe) then added some teflon thread sealer to the mix. Be SURE you use a back up wrench on the AN fitting so you don't crack the epoxy. That is the biggest risk in that application. A compromised seal would interfere with MAP signal.

Anyone that has access to a CNC mill (or even a regular mill) could machine an aluminum cover that the MAP sensor slides into with an O-ring to seal the reference nipple. Then the cover could be drilled and tapped for an AN fitting. Basically just a aluminum box that covers the MAP sensor. You could even go low tech and seal it with silicone. OK someone step up and make us a cool new part........

 

[TurboBob]

thats a good idea.

 

[JayC]

Ive covered a hole almost big enough to put your fist through in a timing cover with JB Weld and the car is still running today. JB Weld all the way!

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Thought about drilling and tapping but wasn't sure what was inside? This is a junk MAP I am messing with so might try opening it up to see what is in there.

Looks like that AEM MAP is just a transducer which I guess our MAP sensor is as well. I have lost two Alky transducers in the past two years so not too keen on using one of those.

 

[charlief1]

The MAP sensor housing is made out of a thermold plastic and very few things will stick to it. There are glues that will work with that kind of plastic but JB weld isn't one of them. If you try and drill into the sensor then you may damage the diaphram in it. What you might try is to use a die and thread the nipple so you can screw a fitting on it.

 

[ttaowner]

mark i can give you a couple sensors to rip apart and mess with

 

[GetOwnedVette]

Jb Weld is about as close to welding the piece in as you will get I wont even mention some of the things that held together in my cars with Jb weld lol

 

[Phoneguy]

I am with Bob on this one.

Using JB weld on plastic has never worked out for me?

For the MAP sensor I use 3/8" 300 psi push lock air brake hose. Once it is on the MAF, it must be sliced to remove.

We just replaced an engine for a customer and when replacing it we found NO MAF signal at the computer and in Bob's words, "BTW, if the maf fails on a car with alky, it may cause the headgaskets to exit the engine"!

Nick, how are you attaching the push lock to the MAP?

Bryan