Here we go again!!!!!!!!

While you have the pan off, take a close look at the Cam lobes(they're hard to see from below, but you can if you try.)
 
You shouldn't use synthetic on a fresh rebuild. Regular Dino oil for at least 3000 miles. Pull the vavle covers and start the engine and see what you can tell.. When I cracked my rocker arm shaft it sounded like the end of the engine.


Sully
 
87Turbogirl if you have the oil filter from the last chage you did, cut it in half and check for any metal in the filter.
 
Mine did the same exact thing, noise from front pass side, knock at crusing speed. Turned out to be my rocker shaft had broken in 1/2 and it was hitting the VC, making all sorts of noise and knock.



Kevin
 
OK here is an update......

We finally got around to taking the oil pan off. There is NO metal in the pan/oil. Bearings are perfect.

The sound is a light knock or a loud tapping noise. It sounds like it is coming for dead center of the intake manifold.

We took off the driver's side valve cover and nothing is broken or loose. All sensors are tight. No exhaust/manifold leaks. Took the serpintine belt off and no difference. Check cam and crank sensors , they seem just fine.

The only error code I am getting is 23.

We are just all out of ideas. Please help......
 
Pull both valve covers and look closely at the rocker arm shafts... I cracked one of mine and it sounded just like the death rattle.

Sully
 
I had low rpm knock retard and a clattering from the passenger side also. It turned out 2 of my inner valve springs were broken. This was missed until we had the engine out of the car and hit the valvetrain with air to blow the oil out of the area. Take the valve cover off and use a blowgun to blow across the springs. Watch for any movement.
Brian
 
Remove one plug wire at a time, then start engine if knock still there hook plug wire back up and go to next one, if its a bad wrist pin or rod bearing-knock will quiet considerably.

HellOnWheels
 
Cam Shafttt

Is it the Lunati cam? We had the infamous club cam 200/200 we had all kinds of false knock and valve train noise. Those lobes are nonconcentric and make the lifter sit futher down in the lifter bore. Those lifters also have larger oil holes, so the oil bleeds down alot quicker. Very noisey at idle. End result was replaced it with a different cam and stock GM lifters. Problem solved!!!:eek:
 
any updates?

I am getting this same exact thing with my car now. I'm getting the noise that sounds like a midget is trapped in my engine and banging on it with a hammer to get out. It only gets worse with more rpms. I thought it was the water pump because I had antifreeze leaking from my car. I replaced the pump and the noise is still there. When I get time I am going to pull the valve covers and take a peeksy boo at her innards. I'm hoping it is something simple so I'm gonna try all of you other guys' suggestions about spark plugs and wires and such. Sure can't afford a rebuild anytime soon though.
 
knock?

not sure if this 'll help, but I did a 3.0 v-6 , when the crank was reground, the shop cut excessive side clearance on the rod journals, knock was unbelieveable!
if you still have the pan off, it's worth checking.
While your at it, you might wanna check the end play on the crank!
good luck

cruzn57
 
Well after pulling both of the valve covers off and listening to the noise it is definatly coming from the Drivers side. My husband thinks it is the lifters which only have about 1.5k miles on them they are new lunati.
 
hmmm, people always talk about any lifters besides the GM ones being noisy so that could very well be your problem.
 
Originally posted by turbo buicks
hmmm, people always talk about any lifters besides the GM ones being noisy so that could very well be your problem.
I've heard the same thing. GM lifters seem to be quieter despite everyone saying that they are made by the same mfr's as XX.
Forgive me but I didn't read the entire post but maybe they are a bleed down lifter?

:confused:
 
Update.....

I was driving the car for the first time since the tapping start up to a shop where my husband could work on it and I didn't notice any tapping. Neither did he. Then we turned around to come home and it started up again. Any idea what would cause the tapping to be there then not be there. :confused:

The other mechanic my husband works with says maybe the lifter has a small piece of dirt on it and needs to be worked out. .:confused:

Any idea will be very helpful, due to we were going to change out my Lunati lifters today with the GM replacement.

Thanks.
 
Sounds like a sticky lifter....hopefully when you install the GM ones, the problem will go away. I'm running Comp Cams lifters in my car and they are noisy, but I can live with it so they are staying in....:cool:
 
I wish I knew what was wrong with my car. I was hoping to drain the oil and the marble would fall out, but it doesn't look like that will happen. I plan on pulling my car to my mom's where I can let it sit on stands while I try different things. The first thing I will try is to take the torque convertor bolts out and wiggle the flywheel to see if the crankshaft bolts are loose like I believe they may be. I had this happen once before. With my luck it couldn't be something that simple though.
 
Turbo girl, Take a close listen to the cam sensor. When it starts with the noise again, use a hose to listen to the sensor cap. In the past, I chased down a similar problem to what you have desribed. The light knocking/ taping noise that was intermintent, came from the front center of the engine and was RPM sensitive. Replaced it and the problem was gone. Mine had only 12,000 miles on it. It could also be a noisey injector, but I kind of doubt it. Good luck!
 
The weird part about my noise is it came about a month after replacing my cam sensor. When I set the sensor per instructions on the cam tool, the car wouldn't even crank. It would sputter and backfire. You had to play with the sensor to get the car to crank and run right.
 
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