HELP What could be wrong????????????

[Buickcruiser]

Hey guys,

My ECM got damaged and I purchased a replacement. I installed it and my vehicle still will not start. I hooked a volt meter to the injector harness and the injectors are not receiving any voltage. I also hooked up my turbo link and it is not showing an ECM. But, the amber light on the dash is coming on. I am getting spark but just no fuel and the turbo link can’t receive data from the ECM. Would you all have any idea what is wrong with my car? Could my chip in the computer have gotten damaged? Any help would be greatly appreciated because my car is parked in front of my house, and we don’t live in the best neighborhood.

Thanks,
David

 

[pacecarta]

is the fuel pump injector fuse blown at the fuse box under the dash ?

it's labeled FP/INJ

 

[topfuel]

What happened to the old ecm?
Check all the fuses first.
Did you swap both chips into the new ecm, big and little?
How about the orange wire connector by the battery?

 

[Buickcruiser]

Ok Guys
I feel like an idiot. Here is what happened. I pulled my car out to change the brake pads on my truck. When I went to pull it back in the car would not start. So I jumped it and it started and as soon as a pulled the cables off and went to put it in gear it stopped. This happened a few time and I was getting real frustrated. I grabbed the cables one last time and crossed them. Once I got the new ecm switched the chips checked all the fuses one 7.5 was blown under the dash and a 7.5 on the orange ecm line. I went to jump the car and it started I wasn’t going to try running around again so I waited for friend to come over so I could be in the car giving it gas to prevent it from dying. When he came over it would not start. So I pulled the alternator took it to auto zone and it tested fine so I got a new battery. I am very knowledgeable about car but made a stupid mistake.
Any ideas??????
David

 

[pacecarta]

you did say you have an ses light correct so than you do have power coming down the orange wire from the battery and you have spark so the module functions
fuel pump and injectors feed off the same circuit only difference is the pump has a relay the injectors dont.
get a meter and with key on see if you have 12v at the FP/inj fuse under the dash . check both sides if its 12v on one side but not the other replace the fuse , if you dont its possible you burned up one of the fusible links down at the starter .

for a quick test try jumping a wire from one of the the 'ign 'source ports at the fuse box (something that tests and shows 12v with key in on position ) to the other side of the fuse on the FP/inj (pull the fuse out ) and see if it will start since now you should have fuelpump and injectors ,
you could use a short peice of wire or better one of those inline fuse on a wire and put a male spade connector on each side ,this way it just plugs right in .
if it runs plan on dropping the starter to get at the link ends to replace then

 

[Buickcruiser]

Hey guys
OK I checked several things. First both sides of the fuse is around 12. The fuel pump is working fine my FPG is @ 20psi. I rechecked the injector harness and it is showing .03 with the key on and .25 to .50 while cranking. I checked two different plugs and they both showed the same thing. For some reason my turbo link is working now. So I go some data off of that.. The only thing the really pops out is the mat temp is 86 then –58 when cranking. When it goes to –58 the block learn goes from 128 to 0. MAF is showing 4 GPS and the injector PW is 0 and 7.2 and 15.6 when cranking.. and the 02 volts is 414-515. Also I was going to check the cam sensor with the casper tool do you have to move it for the led light to come on or should it come on with out adjusting it if it is set right.
Thanks
David

 

[pacecarta]

since when is 20psi ok , you need at minimum i think 26psi to even get a spray and with stock reg its 34-37

 

[Buickcruiser]

Woops
I meant to say 30 psi. actually around 32-34. This is with the hose on. I know this is a little low I have a new fuel pump that I need to install once I run some of the gas out. How do the other numbers look? Could the mat be bad?? And do you know if the light should be on with the cam sensor tester.
Thanks
David

 

[Buickcruiser]

Hey Guys
For some unknown reason I got my car started it is running like crap but it started and I was able to get it into the garage. That is a big relief. Now I need to why it wasn’t running and why it is running so bad. To get it started I looked under the car and checked to make sure the crank sensor wasn’t damaged and hooked the injectors back up. I cranked it a few times and it sounded like it was closer to starting and about five trys later it did. What exactly does the crank sensor control and could the sensor be bad without being damaged? Is there any way to test it?
Thanks for all of the help
David

 

[pacecarta]

yes it could be bad even without damage they can wear out since it is relys on a magnetic sensor (hall effect) , and metal debris(like rust or from grinding nearby) on the sensor can cause it to not function properly but hitting the interupter ring on the balancer usually is the reason they fail which happens when the balancer start to get loose and wobly (time for a sensor and new balancer),
the crank sensor is responsible for when the coil fires so that the spark occurs when its supposed to and basically replaced the old distributor with a more accurate system of knowing when the pistons are at TDC
. the ring has three windows and every time the window passes the sensor the next coil in line is ignited , if it dies or the signal is lost midstream the engine doesnt know when to fire the plugs .
.the cam sensor can fail or be disconnected while car is running (will put the injectors into batch fire mode ) but if the cam sensor is dead or disconnected before starting the engine wont start .the cam sensor is responsible not only for the injectors firing on time but also to get the first cycle of the crank sensor in time with the pistons which is why sometimes the car will need almost two full spins to fire up . the cam sensor is the same magnetic hall switch like the crank sensor and it can wear out but tends to fail from contact with the interupter ring under the cap .(time for a new cap and a ring repair kit, or a new complete PC16 sensor)

 

[topfuel]

Cruiser

I think you may be getting too far off the right path by looking at crank sensors and cam sensors and intake air sensors.
Considering the fact the car ran ok before you crossed the cables, I
would say those sensors are ok.
The air temp sensor dropping to -58 when cranking is an issue but I
believe the ecm to be at fault instead of the sensor itself.
I'm leaning toward a defective ecm or chip. Are you positive the new
ecm you installed is "known good"? Do you have a different chip to
try?

 

[machinegun]

Nobody has suggested this but look very close. Passenger side, rear of the engine on the back side of the head are some ground wires. They are bolted to the back of the passenger side head in 2 seperate places. Check these very closely or pull them and rewire them to better location grounds and longer wires. Also check the fusible links at the starter area and check the ground grom the battery to the turbo bracket up under the exhaust side of the turbo. Hope this helps and let us know.