Help getting to 9's w/ partlist

[PalmerBS]

Ok, here's the story. My car is in the 10s now on the stock 109 block....I want to get in the 9s. I have a pretty good idea how to get there but I'd like opinions from any of you that know. Basically I'm trying to avoid either getting the wrong thing, or getting something I don't need.

I'm in Huntsville, AL. My car has run a 10.86 quarter. My goal is to get in the 9's on my 109 motor. I also want to keep it relatively streetable.

Thank you VERY much for any help!
Parts:

Engine built by Anderson Performance.

F.A.S.T engine mgt. system w/ race & street programs
engine crankcase vacuum system
Stock 109 block - bored .30 over
New GM 231 Crank
Stock connecting rods
TRW Forged Pistons
Custom Ground Comp Cam
Champion Aluminum GN1 Heads
Heads (mildly ported & polished)
T&D 1.65 Roller Rockers
Cromemoly push rods
Comp Cams springs, lifters, etc.
ATR Ported & Polished Champion upper & lower 70mm intake
Polished Upper For 70mm Tb
Ported & Polished Champion 70mm plenum
Accufab 70mm Throttle Body
TE63 Turbo
ATR External Wastegate
Upgraded aluminum radiator w/ Hi-volume dual cooling fans
Transmission cooler w/ electric fan
reusable system 1 oil filter
Turbo saver remote Oiling System For Buick
75# injectors
PTE frontmount intercooler
ATR 3" Downpipe
ATR Stainless Dual Exhaust w/ Dynomax Stainless Mufflers
Test Pipe w/ electric butterfly valve
VDO Tachometer
VDO water temp gauge
VDO transmission oil pressure gauge
VDO engine oil pressure gauge
VDO boost gauge
VDO fuel pressure gauge
Completely New rear suspension
Tubular adjustable upper control arms
Solid lower control arms
American Racing Torque Thrust II Racing wheels w/ streets
American Racing Torque Thrust II Racing wheels w/ 28" MT slicks

Let me know if you need to know anything else i may have left out?

Please lend a hand, good people of the forum.

-Brandon

 

[Lee_Burough]

If you mentioned anything about your converter, I missed it....?

 

[Otto J]

I think you will need a bigger turbo and bigger injectors unless this car is light

 

[fitz3820]

Probably a full cage (I would get one at those speeds, even if it isn't required)

Does the engine have steel caps or a girdle?

Is the rearend beefed up at all?

Again, your definition of streetable is probably different than mine - I want steel bumpers, A/C, full interior etc. I have driven my car 14+ hours to Bristol and commute in it 60+ miles per day and it runs on 93 octane, that is a street car to me, but it only runs 11's.

There are plenty of fast GN's that are "streetable" but I wouldn't want to commute in them

 

[Blown&Injected]

wow 75 pph will not get us in the 9's?

 

[PalmerBS]

Ok, first off....thank you for the responses.

My idea of streetable is full A/C, no serious weight reductions, full stock interior, stock gear ratio w/ overdrive, etc. No cage...call me old fashioned.

I want to hit the 9s for my own piece of mind. I would like the car to be able to go on a 200 mile trip every now and again w/o incident and I CERTAINLY plan on driving it on a regular basis.

I believe the convertor is 3200, no engine girdle, rearend has been strengthened a bit but maintains stock gear ratio.

Engine is pulled and ready for work now....My thoughts:

-70GTQ or 76 series turbo
-injectors to match
-convertor to match
-engine girdle
-deep sump oil pan

-possible crank/rod upgrade
-I've thought about alcohol injection...but not very hard.


THOUGHTS ??????

 

[MSDGN]

You're setup is pretty close to mine except I do have a girdle and 70GTQ turbo...I think the 75 injectors will be OK...but 83's would be better...I have 72's right now and run 10.49...they are at around 65% duty...so have more in them...I know I have a 9 in my car if I can get the 60ft down...sucks right now...also I didn't see mention of fuel pumps...you need a double pumper or Weldon or something similar...single Walbro won't cut it trying to run a 9...

 

[MSDGN]

Forgot to add that I do drive my car on the street all the time...probably wouldn't take it on a long trip though...

 

[bison]

More turbo for sure. Id go for a 70-72GTQ. You didnt mention compression ratio. Id go for 9.0-1. I would think the injectors should go 9.90's@135+mph @3600lbs around 85% duty. The transmission will need all billet internals. Input, forward drum, overdrive planet, and ring gear. A transbrake should be employed. From there you will need a good billet covered 4000 stall @zero psi converter. The rear will need 31 spline axles minimum with a new center section (spool or ls) to accomodate. A cover to reinforce the rear will be needed. A strong driveshaft will be needed. Ask Jim Rome about driveshafts . I could go on for a long time about the engine. I would grab one of the stage I's that are for sale and use that instead of the 109. You will have a lot more piece of mind with a girdled S1. Extra clamping on the cylinder heads too. I would also go with a forged crank and some forged rods. Internal balance with sfi damper and flexplate. Get the weight of the car down as much as possible. A good rear sway bar should be used like HR's. Go for some taller slicks also. Phoenix 28.5x9 work well. Your looking at spending $10k-12k from where you are currently to do it reliably. Good luck :biggrin:

 

[Phatman]

I think quite a few items have been touched on that I think would be a must. I'd say the first thing on my list would be to call Bill and go over things you would like to achieve to get his take on it....

 

[John Wilde]

Dude,

You need to hook up with Dusty Bradford.
He is a great guy and knows his stuff.
He is from Decatur AL.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Did you just move here? Don't think we ever met.

While the motor is out I'd put a girdle on it. You'll need a good 70mm turbo like a 70GTQ. 72# injectors will get you there with at least a double pumper set-up. Also who ported the heads? While you have them off they can be ported even more if they are just mild. Chris Hogeland ports GN1's and does a great job. He has done the work on his heads and a few others around here. Both GN's are fast enough in the 1/8 to run 9's.

I can get a good PTC converter for your app. I hope the tranny is up to it. Do you know what internals are in the trans? Lockup or non lock? Who built it. 9's can be had with the OD but it's costly. A transbrake will help the 60 foots.

I wouldn't worry about alky. Just put C16 in it when you race.

 

[Otto J]

Dusty if you have the time to post here you should be working on the car! :biggrin:

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Dusty if you have the time to post here you should be working on the car! :biggrin:

Ha, I was killing some time waiting for the wife to call before I went to the hospital to take her lunch. I have night shift the next 4 nights Looks like car work during the day and off to work at night. Work really interfere's with my hobby......They expect a few more hours a week out of me than Cal gets away with

Oh yeah, the TSM car still doesn't have the distributor in and needs the stand alone harness finished. Who needs sleep right.

 

[Razor]

I wouldn't worry about alky. Just put C16 in it when you race.

On street car not running in a specific Buick class that disallows this, I have to disagree.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199896

This is recent.

And there is no downside if used with C16. Especially with an aftermarket ECU that does WB correction.

Makes up for a lot of mistakes.

 

[PalmerBS]

Any other ideas good sirs?

 

[DonnieShort]

What cam are you running or going to run ? Didn't see that mentioned

 

[andy999]

Ok, here's the story. My car is in the 10s now on the stock 109 block....I want to get in the 9s. I have a pretty good idea how to get there but I'd like opinions from any of you that know. Basically I'm trying to avoid either getting the wrong thing, or getting something I don't need.

I'm in Huntsville, AL. My car has run a 10.86 quarter. My goal is to get in the 9's on my 109 motor. I also want to keep it relatively streetable.

Thank you VERY much for any help!
Parts:

Engine built by Anderson Performance.

F.A.S.T engine mgt. system w/ race & street programs
engine crankcase vacuum system
Stock 109 block - bored .30 over
New GM 231 Crank
Stock connecting rods
TRW Forged Pistons
Custom Ground Comp Cam
Champion Aluminum GN1 Heads
Heads (mildly ported & polished)
T&D 1.65 Roller Rockers
Cromemoly push rods
Comp Cams springs, lifters, etc.
ATR Ported & Polished Champion upper & lower 70mm intake
Polished Upper For 70mm Tb
Ported & Polished Champion 70mm plenum
Accufab 70mm Throttle Body
TE63 Turbo
ATR External Wastegate
Upgraded aluminum radiator w/ Hi-volume dual cooling fans
Transmission cooler w/ electric fan
reusable system 1 oil filter
Turbo saver remote Oiling System For Buick
75# injectors
PTE frontmount intercooler
ATR 3" Downpipe
ATR Stainless Dual Exhaust w/ Dynomax Stainless Mufflers
Test Pipe w/ electric butterfly valve
VDO Tachometer
VDO water temp gauge
VDO transmission oil pressure gauge
VDO engine oil pressure gauge
VDO boost gauge
VDO fuel pressure gauge
Completely New rear suspension
Tubular adjustable upper control arms
Solid lower control arms
American Racing Torque Thrust II Racing wheels w/ streets
American Racing Torque Thrust II Racing wheels w/ 28" MT slicks

Let me know if you need to know anything else i may have left out?

Please lend a hand, good people of the forum.

-Brandon

what vacume system are you using .