Headers??
- Thread starter NJTurbo
- Start date
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
I do not know of any mass produced product that will fit your needs. Why would you run a 3 bolt turbo with stage 2 heads?
If you are using the stage 2 heads and need headers anyway please just get a 4 bolt exhaust housing.
If you are using the stage 2 heads and need headers anyway please just get a 4 bolt exhaust housing.
The Radius Kid
Active Member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2002
Get a 3-4 bolt adaptor for your turbo[to use 4 bolt headers].When and if you change your turbo for something different,you can buy a 4 bolt turbo.I think ATR sells everything you'll need.Have fun.
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
How fast do you want to go.
Plenty of people street drive a 76.
Several people are trying the 80mm units.
Cal Hartline drives his PT-88 around.
I would think that the 88 would be the
biggest unit that I would try around town.
If you go with the BB you can get away with
a little less conveter. Or so I have be told.
You seem like you are close to Turbo People.
Give Job a call and I am sure he will help you out.
Plenty of people street drive a 76.
Several people are trying the 80mm units.
Cal Hartline drives his PT-88 around.
I would think that the 88 would be the
biggest unit that I would try around town.
If you go with the BB you can get away with
a little less conveter. Or so I have be told.
You seem like you are close to Turbo People.
Give Job a call and I am sure he will help you out.
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
This is from pte's page.
I have seen a 72 4 bolt go 9.4 in person.
You may want to talk to Patrick at PTE.
He mentioned that he went with the pt74
because it had a better map than the 76.
I have driven a 70 with a 4000 stall and it was ok with me.
If anything it came on quick and hard.
PT72 4 Bolt
The 4 bolt housing added to out 72 series turbo ups the HP capability to 850HP which can net you that low 9 second ET. 3600 stall is recommended.
$ 1095.00
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PT72 Q-trim Turbocharger
This turbocharger utilizes the high efficiency Q trime wheel for added power at lower boost pressures. It is capable of supporting 830HP which can put your car in that mid 9 second range. A 3600 stall converter is recommended.
$ 1595.00
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PT74 Q-trim Turbocharger
The PT74 Q-trim turbo uses the HE Q-trim wheel which can generate more HP at lower RPM's. This turbo is capable of generating 875 HP and will lock in that low 9 second potential. A converter rated at 3800 stall is recommended.
$ 1595.00
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PT76 Q-trim Turbocharger
This turbocharger uses the HE Q-trim wheel which is more efficient that its P trim brother. This turbocharger is capable of supporting 900HP which will put you in the low 9 second range. A converter rated at 3800 stall is recommended.
$ 1795.00
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PT88 3 Bolt TSE
Specially designed for certain competition sanctioning bodies, this turbocharger is the ticket for that 8 second timeslip. It will support 1050 HP which is enough to put a full weight Buick in the high 8 second range. A converter with 4200 stall is recommended.
$ 1795.00
I have seen a 72 4 bolt go 9.4 in person.
You may want to talk to Patrick at PTE.
He mentioned that he went with the pt74
because it had a better map than the 76.
I have driven a 70 with a 4000 stall and it was ok with me.
If anything it came on quick and hard.
PT72 4 Bolt
The 4 bolt housing added to out 72 series turbo ups the HP capability to 850HP which can net you that low 9 second ET. 3600 stall is recommended.
$ 1095.00
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PT72 Q-trim Turbocharger
This turbocharger utilizes the high efficiency Q trime wheel for added power at lower boost pressures. It is capable of supporting 830HP which can put your car in that mid 9 second range. A 3600 stall converter is recommended.
$ 1595.00
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PT74 Q-trim Turbocharger
The PT74 Q-trim turbo uses the HE Q-trim wheel which can generate more HP at lower RPM's. This turbo is capable of generating 875 HP and will lock in that low 9 second potential. A converter rated at 3800 stall is recommended.
$ 1595.00
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PT76 Q-trim Turbocharger
This turbocharger uses the HE Q-trim wheel which is more efficient that its P trim brother. This turbocharger is capable of supporting 900HP which will put you in the low 9 second range. A converter rated at 3800 stall is recommended.
$ 1795.00
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PT88 3 Bolt TSE
Specially designed for certain competition sanctioning bodies, this turbocharger is the ticket for that 8 second timeslip. It will support 1050 HP which is enough to put a full weight Buick in the high 8 second range. A converter with 4200 stall is recommended.
$ 1795.00
If low 10's is all you want I would think a PT70 or PT72 4-bolt turbo is all you'll need cause both are capable of 830-850hp which would easily get you a mid 9 second pass if you wanted and a 3800-4000 stall converter should get the job done.
There are plenty of guys that make a good converter like Bruce (aka WE4 on this board) or Art Carr. As far as what size injectors would be good for the PT74 turbo I know Pat @ PTE is using the Delphi 84# injectors with his 74 turbo, but I would use the Delphi 95# injectors just in case you ever want to run mid 9's.... BTW, if you don't mind me asking who is building your Stage II motor?
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Inj'S?/
I run a T-72BB, P trim and 96# inj's. Drive it on the street 99%.[GN1R heads, 3" DP]
W/ the stage 2 heads you will need some serious airflow down low or the car will not run as well as you expect.[ given the stage heads..]
Have seen several stage combos that had flow problems at the DP and the GN1 heads worked better until the 80 series turbos came along...
Dave Fiscus runs a 4-5" Dp to get his 88 to spool and run like it should...
I'd check w/ Cal or Dave B4 you spent ALOT of money for inj's turbo, exhaust, converter...
Another problem w/ loose goose converters on the street is heat. If you have a stall speed that's more than cruise rpm, then the heat comes into play as the converter is a slush pump til you stand on it...
I run a T-72BB, P trim and 96# inj's. Drive it on the street 99%.[GN1R heads, 3" DP]
W/ the stage 2 heads you will need some serious airflow down low or the car will not run as well as you expect.[ given the stage heads..]
Have seen several stage combos that had flow problems at the DP and the GN1 heads worked better until the 80 series turbos came along...
Dave Fiscus runs a 4-5" Dp to get his 88 to spool and run like it should...
I'd check w/ Cal or Dave B4 you spent ALOT of money for inj's turbo, exhaust, converter...
Another problem w/ loose goose converters on the street is heat. If you have a stall speed that's more than cruise rpm, then the heat comes into play as the converter is a slush pump til you stand on it...
Who to build engine, well i have two people have not decided yet who to use. I may use Bill from maryland or bob in Conn he does jack's engines. Here is what i got so far, Stage 2 off-center, steel crank 3.580, rods carrilla 6.5, je pistons with pins, conley deep oil pan, edlebrock victor jr intake, roller lifter, roller rockers, roller cam, stage 2 heads all done. My main concern is keeping ac and p/s and trying to keep it original looking as possable. I did not relize how much detail goes into combination on these engines. You guys are very helpful as you know these are big bucks to build. I would like to run a 9.5lock-up and the 200r4 beefed up. Will headers and a pt72 spool okay as these heads the flow graph i got claims flow is over 300cfm.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
200?
FORGET the 200!! I spent a fortune and ended up w/ a T-400 and a brake. W/out a brake, you will not be a happy camper!! AND a 200/brake will last about 1 good 15# launch!!!
NOTHING original looking about a 4 bbl intake and a set of humongus heads! Don't forget, the A/C box has to be removed or modified too.. more "not so original" looks...
IT never ends.. the money spending, that is!!
BTDT...
FORGET the 200!! I spent a fortune and ended up w/ a T-400 and a brake. W/out a brake, you will not be a happy camper!! AND a 200/brake will last about 1 good 15# launch!!!
NOTHING original looking about a 4 bbl intake and a set of humongus heads! Don't forget, the A/C box has to be removed or modified too.. more "not so original" looks...
IT never ends.. the money spending, that is!!
BTDT...
Oh man......... Well let me rewrite Chuck. I want it to look clean and neat. I have seen guys runnig stage motors and they have wires and hoses and crap all over the place. I got a chance to see Jack Cottons stage engine last month. Nice clean and fast. That is what i want. What is a good price on a 400 built.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
T-400
i do my own.. Mine is a piece I put together using common HI-po parts and a t. brake solenoid from a local builder.
A shop built would be in the $1000 range, I think..
Call Billy Anderson and ask him or call Cotton.. they're both on the good guys lists!!
i do my own.. Mine is a piece I put together using common HI-po parts and a t. brake solenoid from a local builder.
A shop built would be in the $1000 range, I think..
Call Billy Anderson and ask him or call Cotton.. they're both on the good guys lists!!
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Headerz??
Bill can answer the ??'s.
I have Champs on my car and as such, use all the ft accessory drive parts, including the ft cover. [Duttweiller ext oil pump]
You will have to have custom made fuel rails as the runner positions on a stage 2 and stock block are different. The valve loc. sequence is also different...
Bill can answer the ??'s.
I have Champs on my car and as such, use all the ft accessory drive parts, including the ft cover. [Duttweiller ext oil pump]
You will have to have custom made fuel rails as the runner positions on a stage 2 and stock block are different. The valve loc. sequence is also different...
RealFastV6
Plays with Trucks
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Since you've got an off-center motor, and you want to keep it somewhat original looking, why not consider using a champion ported stock intake/BGC Intake with champion GN1R heads on the car? Stage 2 heads are more trouble then they're worth to make work in your situation where you want to keep all the accessories. You're not going to gain anything at the level you want to play at.
JMO...
JMO...
I agree with Justin.....
You would be much better off with some GN1R heads and the BGC/stock Champion ported intake especially for a low 10 - high 9 second car!!! A good example of this is Cal Hartline cause if you check out Cal's 9 sec. car on his website www.hartlineperformance.com he has an on-center motor and is using the GN1R heads, BGC intake, ATR 3-bolt headers, and a PT-88-TSE 3-bolt turbo. This is a low 9 second car (should be high 8's very soon) and it still has A/C, P/S, and check out the pic of the engine!!! He is using a TH400 w/ a brake as well!!! It will be a much easier with GN1R heads and a BGC/stock Champion ported intake IMO
You would be much better off with some GN1R heads and the BGC/stock Champion ported intake especially for a low 10 - high 9 second car!!! A good example of this is Cal Hartline cause if you check out Cal's 9 sec. car on his website www.hartlineperformance.com he has an on-center motor and is using the GN1R heads, BGC intake, ATR 3-bolt headers, and a PT-88-TSE 3-bolt turbo. This is a low 9 second car (should be high 8's very soon) and it still has A/C, P/S, and check out the pic of the engine!!!
He is using a TH400 w/ a brake as well!!! It will be a much easier with GN1R heads and a BGC/stock Champion ported intake IMO- Joined
- May 27, 2001
You may want to wait for the new TA heads to come out.
Quality on the stage 1 aluminum heads from M&A and Champion has been less than great in my opinion. I know that the TAs are basically the same casting as the M&As but with inporvments. Mike at TA has years of experiance with head designa and manufacturing. I would expect a good product from him.
BTW Cal's car is really nice!!! Very close to what my dream buick would be.
Quality on the stage 1 aluminum heads from M&A and Champion has been less than great in my opinion. I know that the TAs are basically the same casting as the M&As but with inporvments. Mike at TA has years of experiance with head designa and manufacturing. I would expect a good product from him.
BTW Cal's car is really nice!!! Very close to what my dream buick would be.
