Girdle Studs

chadswe4

Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2002
Has anyone had a problem with the studs that came for the oil pan breaking?
If so what did you replace them with?

Thanks
Chad
 
we have had this prob with a bunch of the motors we have done...call the person you bought the girlde off of they should resolve it
 
sounds familiar

When i pulled my motor apart after spinning a main bearing i found almost all of the girdle oil pan studs broken. I called RJC and asked if he had run across this before. He said only once before. He did replace the studs for me for free but i did buy some new shims from him at the same time. Call him and see what he can do for you. The studs are not ARP. RJC said the cost to have them made would be outragous. they should be at least a grade 5, not sure on that though. good luck, jeremy walters
 
I just picked up an engine from my machinist Bob at RPE and he advised that the perimeter should be torqued to 20 ft lbs instead of the old number of 25. He has been seeing a lot of broken perimter studs himself. Maybe there was a weaker batch of studs around the last few years? Mine are from Jason back in 1998. Same ones on 3 different engines and no breakage yet! Theyve been torqued and loosened at least 5 times each so far. Bob reported that they usually break when trying to remove them. He said when torqueing it down to back the studs off one turn from the bottom just in case one should break off you could easily extract it. They dont appear to be a high quality stud but in my case they held up. RJC has studs if you need them
 
I believe the problem is if you leave to much girdle to rail clearance, you'll pop the studs. Overtightening it doesnt help.

The girdle support is on the caps not rail, get greedy on the rail.. you'll pop them.

HTH
 
I believe the problem is if you leave to much girdle to rail clearance, you'll pop the studs. Overtightening it doesnt help.

The girdle support is on the caps not rail, get greedy on the rail.. you'll pop them.

HTH

What is that clearance really supposed to be? I read .005" gap between the girdle and pan rail.... w/o the gasket.... which gives a .005 preload on the caps. Is this what is recommended across the board.... regardless of girdle manufacturer?
 
I set mine to .004 and dont gorilla them down. No problem.

Set em to .006 and then bring the clearance down to .001 when you tighten them.. tommorrow morning.. POP..
 
I set mine to .005 per instructions and no stud breakage after 2 years and numerous 10 sec runs...
 
I always ran .004. Now i get the girdle milled on the side that is tighter to get the clearances equal all the way around. Its more accurate this way.
 
I bought the $199 Girdle Kit from Full Throttle. I don't know squat about girdles, but the guy who is building my engine was impressed with it. He builds his own. He had heard about them for a while that they were coming out but it was the first he had seen.
 
I always ran .004. Now i get the girdle milled on the side that is tighter to get the clearances equal all the way around. Its more accurate this way.

At work... I have access to a big planer mill..... BIG BIG planer mill.... it can mill a surface flat within like .001 ... I was thinking about putting my block on it... and indicating in off my main cap registers (block side).... and shimming the block perfectly level and clamped to the table.... then I would take off the minimum amount off the pan rails to make them flat and parallel to the plane the main cap registers make. The end product would be two parallel planes..... this is where I would start.....

Then.... put the main caps on a surface grinder... and take a fair amount off the top side of the caps.....til the surface had a decent amount of flat surface to it.... then turn them upside down on the surface grinder...and grind .002 off the side that meets the block. Turn them back over... and surface grind them until you are .004-.005 above the pan rail......

How does that sound?

Once the girdle was installed.... a line hone should clean it up nicely. The crank centerline would be in the same spot it always was....
 
At work... I have access to a big planer mill..... BIG BIG planer mill.... it can mill a surface flat within like .001 ... I was thinking about putting my block on it... and indicating in off my main cap registers (block side).... and shimming the block perfectly level and clamped to the table.... then I would take off the minimum amount off the pan rails to make them flat and parallel to the plane the main cap registers make. The end product would be two parallel planes..... this is where I would start.....

Then.... put the main caps on a surface grinder... and take a fair amount off the top side of the caps.....til the surface had a decent amount of flat surface to it.... then turn them upside down on the surface grinder...and grind .002 off the side that meets the block. Turn them back over... and surface grind them until you are .004-.005 above the pan rail......

How does that sound?
Sounds good. Youll save a lot on the setup also.

Once the girdle was installed.... a line hone should clean it up nicely. The crank centerline would be in the same spot it always was....
Sounds like it will work great. No shim packs would be neede either. Sounds like youll be saving a lot on the setup if you do it yourself.
 
At work... I have access to a big planer mill..... BIG BIG planer mill.... it can mill a surface flat within like .001 ... I was thinking about putting my block on it... and indicating in off my main cap registers (block side).... and shimming the block perfectly level and clamped to the table.... then I would take off the minimum amount off the pan rails to make them flat and parallel to the plane the main cap registers make. The end product would be two parallel planes..... this is where I would start.....

Then.... put the main caps on a surface grinder... and take a fair amount off the top side of the caps.....til the surface had a decent amount of flat surface to it.... then turn them upside down on the surface grinder...and grind .002 off the side that meets the block. Turn them back over... and surface grind them until you are .004-.005 above the pan rail......

How does that sound?

Once the girdle was installed.... a line hone should clean it up nicely. The crank centerline would be in the same spot it always was....



That would be ideal! :cool: In the past when not squaring up the pan rail with the rest of the block I had that problem with the pan studs breaking.
 
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