FP Transducer Connector - Autometer 2246 Transducer

[Blazer406]

I purchased 2 of these several years ago and intended to hook them up to log FP and oil pressure.

Apparently, I only bought the sensor. I need a harness. They appear to be a Metri-pack 3 pin female harness similar (or even the same) to the metri-pack TPS connector (possibly from LS1 cars) that fits it.

I would love to go find one at the u-pullit, but as a backup..... does anyone know what the connector really is? It appaears if it is the same as the LS TPS connector.... they made millions of these in the 90's and 2000's...... will try and go to the u-pullit and check tomorrow....

My research looks like the Metri-pack M/P 150 series.... maybe 150.2?

It appears Caspers has the same transducer....which comes with the harness.

It is my understanding these transducers also come in Autometer electric full-sweep pressure gauges.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

You are correct, it is the Delphi Metri-Pack 150. I think that more then just the LS1 cars used that connector for the TPS. Maybe even the '90-'92 TPI cars along with the later year TBI set ups.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

More info:

ACDelco Pigtail PT1825 & GM Pigtail Part# 88988301

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I've tested several of the sensors on the inj bench... Not all of them passed the test....Way too far off vs the bench certified ga.
I suggest B4 you rely on it, compare it to a mechanical gauge.

 

[Blazer406]

Chuck, can you send me a conversation with what you found in your tests?

I would have thought these pressure transducers would be within a lb or two..... Close enough for what I want to do anyway... X

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I'll get with the local Vette guy, [they were his parts], and see if he still has the paperwork I gave him.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

I've tested several of the sensors on the inj bench... Not all of them passed the test....Way too far off vs the bench certified ga.
I suggest B4 you rely on it, compare it to a mechanical gauge.

I'm not surprised, I stopped using them due to reliability issues. This is the FP sensor now on the Buick :

Honeywell: MLH100PGB06A

That is a 100 psi gauge, 1/8" male NPT , metric-pack connector, +5 volt input, 0.5 - 4.5 V output. One of the better things about the Honeywell sensors is that the specifications for them are available. One that I particularly liked was the extended industrial temperature range of -40* C through +125* C (-40* F to +257* F), which means that they can reside on the engine.

Although I do not direct mount them on the fuel rail. Use a short section of Teflon braided line to the sensor which is ty-wrapped to the harness.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[GNVenom]

Something you need to consider. Senders are available in both "Gauge" and "Atmospheric" calibrations. With the gauge calibration, zero PSI is zero, and with the atmospheric, it adds 14.7 PSI to the mix. So, if you don't index your software, you'll read 14.7PSI at zero pressure. This could be why some people find a mis-match in readings.

Look at the specs; if it shows "0 to 100 PSIA" or "0 to 100 PSIG" there is your difference. With a gauge, you must use the G spec, but with software driven systems, you can use either, but must offset the reading by atmospheric pressure to achieve a reliable reading.

 

[Blazer406]

You are correct, it is the Delphi Metri-Pack 150. I think that more then just the LS1 cars used that connector for the TPS. Maybe even the '90-'92 TPI cars along with the later year TBI set ups.

RemoveBeforeFlight

I picked up 2 connectors with a couple feet of wire still attached to each at the pull-a-part Sunday.... Now I just need a way to hook this into my fuel rail. I don't really like any of the options.... lol. I need a custom fitting to hug the sensor up underneathe the fuel rail looking back...... and then have a male -3AN with an internal 1/16 female pipe to put a schrader valve in again so I still have a test port.....

Anyone make one of these?

 

[Blazer406]

Something you need to consider. Senders are available in both "Gauge" and "Atmospheric" calibrations. With the gauge calibration, zero PSI is zero, and with the atmospheric, it adds 14.7 PSI to the mix. So, if you don't index your software, you'll read 14.7PSI at zero pressure. This could be why some people find a mis-match in readings.

Look at the specs; if it shows "0 to 100 PSIA" or "0 to 100 PSIG" there is your difference. With a gauge, you must use the G spec, but with software driven systems, you can use either, but must offset the reading by atmospheric pressure to achieve a reliable reading.

I'm using the PL to do the logging duties.... so I hope I can deal with either. Both of my sensors are Autometer....and appear per the paperwork to be replacement sensors for a FP gauge they sell.

 

[GNVenom]

I picked up 2 connectors with a couple feet of wire still attached to each at the pull-a-part Sunday.... Now I just need a way to hook this into my fuel rail. I don't really like any of the options.... lol. I need a custom fitting to hug the sensor up underneathe the fuel rail looking back...... and then have a male -3AN with an internal 1/16 female pipe to put a schrader valve in again so I still have a test port.....

Anyone make one of these?

FWIW, the AN fitting is 4 in the fuel rail, and the pipe threads are 1/8" NPTF on transducers.

One option is to use a combination of these two items:
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=652
and
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=1337

 

[Blazer406]

FWIW, the AN fitting is 4 in the fuel rail, and the pipe threads are 1/8" NPTF on transducers.

One option is to use a combination of these two items:
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=652
and
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=1337

Thanks John, I don't know why I thought -3AN.

The 1/16 pipe is for the threads on the schrader valve I thought..... the internal threads in the stock fuel rail fitting.

10-4 on the 1/8" pipe on the sensor....

 

[GNVenom]

I'm pretty sure the internal threads are straight threads with an un-machined tapered seat. The valve stem has a seal that seats when you tighten it. You can use a 'bicycle valve tool" to remove the stem.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I'm pretty sure the internal threads are straight threads with an un-machined tapered seat. The valve stem has a seal that seats when you tighten it. You can use a 'bicycle valve tool" to remove the stem.

I have made several "tools" by picking up used valve stems at the tire store, and loc titing the caps on them. Handy to have in the tool box.

 

[Blazer406]

I ended up with 2 pushlock fittings.... One with a -4AN swivel and one with 1/8" male pipe.... And a short piece of small fuel compatible hose. I plan on bending the hose 180 deg and zip tie the sensor to the top of the fuel rail. It looks like it will provide the best access.... I wanted it to hide under the rail by the FPR, but it just doesn't look like it would allow decent access.

 

[87-WE2]

I did a lot of research when I was trying to find a fitting for the rail that I could keep my test port AND install a 1/8" NPT adaptor for the fuel pressure sending unit. What I found was that the threads inside the fitting for the schrader are super squirrely - .206" x 36 TPI. I was unable to find a tap to cut these threads anywhere except online, and the tap was very expensive. Seems to me like it was $100 or so. It must be due to schrader's trademark or licensing agreement.

 

[GNVenom]

I have made several "tools" by picking up used valve stems at the tire store, and loc titing the caps on them. Handy to have in the tool box.

Yeah, that was the standard issue when I worked for Firestone back in the 70's. Come to think of it, I have some unbelievable stories to tell, all around the deception they used to get you to purchase shocks, suspension, brakes and so on. Ask me about the can of oil, given to all employees....

 

[TurboBob]

So..... what about the can of oil, given to all employees ?

B

 

[GNVenom]

Well, it's a stray from the original post, but since you asked....

Back in around 1971 or so, I worked as a technician (read that - tire buster) at a local Firestone dealer. Now understand, back then, cars were generally all junk, and you'd be lucky if the car lasted thru the 12-month warranty period. So, naturally, cars would rust, fall apart, and break. Anyway, a customer would show up to get their snow tires installed (yep, you needed tires for winter and summer, all-season radials didn't yet exist). So, we'd offer the "36 point safety inspection" for FREE. In that inspection, and with the car being at least 12+ months old, we'd invariably find some "dangerous" faults; worn ball joints, bad tie rods ends, non-functional shock absorbers, destroyed brakes and wheel bearings, and so on. So, as a part-time employee (still in high school), I had a quota to fill - I had to sell at least 12 shocks a week. You could sell them in pairs, but ideally, in sets of four. One set of ball joints equal credit for one pair of shocks. Each and every employee was given his own squirt-can of oil. But not for squeaks...

Here is where the oil can came to play.

We would get the car in the air, squirt oil on all four shocks, then call the customer in from the showroom, to actually observe the "leaking, dangerous shocks" on their car. It was hugely unethical, but it was a requirement to the job. And, EVERY shop did the same thing (the guys at Goodyear did the "oil job" to me once). Complete and total ripoff of the consumer. We even convinced the customers that the advertised cost of a brake job would be higher if their car had power steering, and even higher yet if it had AC!

So, if you liked being employed, you'd spray the shocks and get the order. Explain to the customer how dangerous a leaky shock can be (women were especially susceptible to the pitch) and the boss would be happy. Same thing with sloppy ball joints; we'd put the jack stand under the lower control arms and pry up on the tire with a bar, showing free-play on the upper ball joint. Show the customer, then explain how, if the ball should pop out of the socket, the car becomes a death sled, and you've got a customer. We'd tack on unnecessary wheel bearings, brake drums, wheel seals (at $12 each), tie rods, wheel bearings and so on. A guy would see an ad in the local paper for a brake job at $29.95 for four wheels, and leave with a bill for around $300 - after the markup items were "discovered" in the safety inspection. Scam 70's for sure.

There, so I said it. Now that it's off my chest, I can resume a normal life.......

 

[Pronto]

Same crap still happens today. You've got have a basic understanding of cars if you own one or you're going it be ripped off for sure...