fix for low boost???
- Thread starter mcponch
- Start date
Lets fix the first problem.
On your keyboard. 3 Buttons up from the bottom left. Push it once. Begin typing.
For the boost issue.
Pull the retaining clip off the wastegate arm. Pull the arm off the puck lever. Rotate the arm. Reassemble. Test. Adjust accordingly.
On your keyboard. 3 Buttons up from the bottom left. Push it once. Begin typing.
For the boost issue.
Pull the retaining clip off the wastegate arm. Pull the arm off the puck lever. Rotate the arm. Reassemble. Test. Adjust accordingly.
Low Boost
XLR8. YOU SEEM TO WANT TO HELP.and NOT BE SILLY! I HAVE THE ROD AJJ ALL THE WAY SHUT. IT WAS ONLY #17 WITH 110 GAS. THEN I WENT FROM A TE-54. TO A GT61 TURBO. 3000 STALL TO A 3400 STALL. 17-ROW STOCK LOCATION INTERCOOL.DID NOT CHANGE INTERCOOL. AND TRANS PLUS. WITH ALKY CHIP. CAN GET #20 BOOST. THAT'S IT. THAT IS WITH 110 OCCTANE. AND 009 INJS. THANKS FOR ANY HELP YOU CAN GIVE. frank..
XLR8. YOU SEEM TO WANT TO HELP.and NOT BE SILLY! I HAVE THE ROD AJJ ALL THE WAY SHUT. IT WAS ONLY #17 WITH 110 GAS. THEN I WENT FROM A TE-54. TO A GT61 TURBO. 3000 STALL TO A 3400 STALL. 17-ROW STOCK LOCATION INTERCOOL.DID NOT CHANGE INTERCOOL. AND TRANS PLUS. WITH ALKY CHIP. CAN GET #20 BOOST. THAT'S IT. THAT IS WITH 110 OCCTANE. AND 009 INJS. THANKS FOR ANY HELP YOU CAN GIVE. frank..
Thats not exactly low boost, but I would suspect a leaky puck, which sould be leaking from not closing all the way, the puck shaft binding up, carbon buildup, misalignment...I would pull the downpipe and take a look. Maybe you dont have enough adjustment with the rod. You still didnt answer XLR8's question. What was boost before the changes? Your boost gauge could simply have problems. The hose going to the gauge could be cracked, have a hole or leaking at the barbs. Or the hose could be too soft and the hose is ballooning...some of the boost could be wasted on ballooning the hose...not likely though. I would check the wastegate puck, the gauge, and for hose leaks either through the hose or through the barbs at the ends. Where are you getting your boost reading from?
THEN MAYBE YOU COULD HIT THE CAPS LOCK BUTTON.
THEN MAYBE YOU COULD HIT THE CAPS LOCK BUTTON.
That is a lot of changes to make at one time!
First, I would unhook the downpipe and verify that the puck is sealing the wastegate hole completely.
How much do you have to pull the actuater arm onto the puck? If it is less than 1/2" you may need to shorten (cut-off) part of the arm so than it can be made shorter.
Verify all the intercooler and turbo hose connections are tight.
You can try wiring the wastegate puck closed to see if boost goes up - just be ready to lift if boost spikes- that can give you an idea if the boost problem is wastegate related.
Also, if you have really good heads 20# may be all the 61 will blow. My TE44 is done at 24# and I have a friend with fully ported GN1's and a 70 series turbo that is done at 25#.
First, I would unhook the downpipe and verify that the puck is sealing the wastegate hole completely.
How much do you have to pull the actuater arm onto the puck? If it is less than 1/2" you may need to shorten (cut-off) part of the arm so than it can be made shorter.
Verify all the intercooler and turbo hose connections are tight.
You can try wiring the wastegate puck closed to see if boost goes up - just be ready to lift if boost spikes- that can give you an idea if the boost problem is wastegate related.
Also, if you have really good heads 20# may be all the 61 will blow. My TE44 is done at 24# and I have a friend with fully ported GN1's and a 70 series turbo that is done at 25#.
Also, what heads and intake do you have? If you have heads and an intake that flow alot, boost doesnt mean a whole lot. If you do have ported stock or GN1 heads, and ported intake, you're flowing ALOT of air at 20 pounds. But I would check the puck, replace the hose going to the boost gauge and use hose clamps if the hose doesnt go on the barbs tightly. Make sure the boost source for the gauge is coming from where it should...not the compressor. The source should be a vacuum source after the TB, that is not valved. What is your vacuum reading at idle? Buy an RJC boost controller to eliminate the factory wastegate diaphragm. I'm gunna get one soon for myself.
low boost
thank you vader. very helpfull. if the puck, as i suspect. is carboned up. just grined it off yes?i did tell the other guy. that my boost was#17 before. the motor is all stock. 33,00.00 origanl miles. i see my blms. are staying around 90/94. closed loop/idle. maybee has something too do with it. thank you all. for your HELP. DAMM THEIR IT GO's again. CAP lock FRANK. P.S. STOCK. WITH BOLT ONS.
thank you vader. very helpfull. if the puck, as i suspect. is carboned up. just grined it off yes?i did tell the other guy. that my boost was#17 before. the motor is all stock. 33,00.00 origanl miles. i see my blms. are staying around 90/94. closed loop/idle. maybee has something too do with it. thank you all. for your HELP. DAMM THEIR IT GO's again. CAP lock
FRANK. P.S. STOCK. WITH BOLT ONS.streetknight
DCVING
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Your BLM's should be plus or minus 5 from 128 at closed loop idle. The car is way too rich. I would find that problem first.
low boost
still at 19/20# got the b.l.m.s fixed. when i ajust the rod for max boost. i have to pull like hell to hook it up. to see if it is sealing all the way. greese the puck yes?? any other segestions. thanks all. frank. p.s. i had an te-54 turbo on my car. the guy i sold it to is running 24++ POUNDS BOOST. FRANK.
still at 19/20# got the b.l.m.s fixed. when i ajust the rod for max boost. i have to pull like hell to hook it up. to see if it is sealing all the way. greese the puck yes?? any other segestions. thanks all. frank. p.s. i had an te-54 turbo on my car. the guy i sold it to is running 24++ POUNDS BOOST. FRANK.
Dont grease the puck. The exhaust heat will turn the grease into carbon...just the thing you're trying to get rid of. I used grease as a header gasket. Works great. You need to pull the downpipe off and look at the mark the puck has made on the hole. It should be obvious by looking at the mark, whether or not its sealing all the way around. Just scrape off whatever carbon is around it. Dont use sandpaper or grease or anything. It needs to be metal on metal. If the puck has no carbon buildup but has not made a complete circular mark around the hole, there may be an angular problem...when the puck closes, the puck is not seating at the same angle as the hole. Dont know what you can do for that, but it could be from the puck becoming loose either from a worn out bushing, or the puck is not secured tightly to the shaft. Maybe the puck is not concentric with the hole (hole perfectly centered within another hole). It will take you less time to pull the downpipe back and take a look at things than it will to keep thinking about it and posting, so get out there and look at it!mcponch said:
If the puck seems fine, check the lines and fittings going to and from the compressor housing.Did you change it to tuner style, or was it already that way? Is it just a straight hose going from the compressor housing to the wastegate diaphragm, or do you have the little plastic flow control thing inbetween somewhere?...thats the little Y shaped hose fitting with the small hole in one and and a big one in the other?
Did you ever do what I suggested, and make sure the hose going to the boost gauge, and related fittings are in good shape? Did you try a different guage?
low boost
vader thank you. i have to post. to see how to (TRY) and fix this. i live in the midwest. we use salt on the streets. i have a nice 33,00.00 orignal regal. but i will get on the things you have put in the post. THANK YOU. very much. for your replys. FRANK. :smile:
vader thank you. i have to post. to see how to (TRY) and fix this. i live in the midwest. we use salt on the streets. i have a nice 33,00.00 orignal regal. but i will get on the things you have put in the post. THANK YOU. very much. for your replys. FRANK. :smile:
This morning, I thought I would do an experiment and see how hosing the wastegate, tuner style would work on my car. Without even rotating the wastegate arm, my boost dropped from 18-20 down to 6. I run a pressure regulator instead of the factory boost solenoid. I have the Y fitting hosed to go to the out port of the pressure regulator. I use that to control boost. It will bleed off pressure in the hoses until it reaches the pressure I set it for, and then it seals up and lets all the boost go to the wastegate diaphragm.
Man this tuner setup SUCKS!
It spools like a dawwwg.
Ive tried the factory solenoid before and the thing spooled like a dog with that too.
Get rid of that "tuner" setup!
Man this tuner setup SUCKS!
It spools like a dawwwg.
Ive tried the factory solenoid before and the thing spooled like a dog with that too.
Get rid of that "tuner" setup!
