Engine build advice

D

dominique matlock

Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2012
I recently purchased a GN pretty nice mods I thought it had a noisy lifter when I bought after pulling motor (blown hg) pulled the heads and cylinder wall eat up from wrist pin so long story short gotta rebuild the motor . Did some research and parts look up and am wondering what is actually the best route .


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Mod list
Precision 6162 turbo
50# injectors
Walbro pump w/hot wire kit
Comp 206 flat tappet
3" down pipe and east
Lt1 maf with translator
Precision ssl
Built Trans w/ 9" locking 2800 stall
Aly control
Plx wideband
New ecm with data logger

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It'd help if you mentioned your goals and how you intend to drive it, so you can get more suited information to what you're wanting the car to do. It'd also help if you could post pictures of what chip is in the car and what the label on the chip is showing it's burned for. Also if you can get pictures of the damage done to the block etc and post them, might help in aiding with getting assistance on how to possibly proceed.
If it's a flat tappet cam, you're gonna need to get some zinc additive adding stuff and put it in your oil to protect that camshaft from excessive wear issues in a short period of time.
If you have the camshaft pulled already, maybe post some pics of it and we can see how it looks also.
It'd be a good idea to have someone that really knows the turbo buick engines working on it, they are a finicky beast and tend to show their ugly side when stuff isn't done to their liking ( blown headgaskets, main bearings damaged, cracked main caps, etc.).
If we can see what you see, be easier to get good information of how you may want & need to go to have it running right etc.

Seems like a couple members of this board recently bought a TR and there was issues with a head gasket being blown from a previous owner who happen to have alky kits on the car that were recent builds.
Which seems to be linked to either incorrect head gaskets for the engine build and or the tune was a tad bit off under a bit of boost and bad knock caused by fueling issues is blowing the headgasket.
How's the timing chain and such look?
Sounds like something was off in a few different places, to have what happened in your case.


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I would like low 11s high 10s but still a good driver I can take on road trips and hold up for a long time

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Pics of the damaged cylinder

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What's going on with all the pink spots dis-coloration on the cylinder wall?
That doesn't look right at all. That nasty scarring from the piston wrist pin damage did a nice number on that cylinder of that block.
Has that block ever gotten any cylinder bore work done to it in the past?
Was that the only area of the block that shows damage or what else was damaged?
Are you trying to reach those goals with alky & pump gas, or e-85 with alky or unleaded race fuel combo with alky?
Do you have someone that is gonna be able to help tune it for those goals that you have?






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Cylinders look bad off, if it has been bored already then you might need another block or have those cylinders sleeved, its not recommended to go more than .030 on these 109 blocks, im not saying a bigger bore wont work its just not recommended
 
Yeah it is stock bore but the spots are deeper than .040 . How safe is a sleeve on these motors ?

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We have built 0.040" blocks for 600 HP applications, and did not encounter any issues, and also have installed sleeves in many builds.

You should take the block to the shop which is going to build your engine and have them check it out first as I find it not possible to check the bore with a keyboard! ;)
 
Nick Micale said:
We have built 0.040" blocks for 600 HP applications, and did not encounter any issues, and also have installed sleeves in many builds.

You should take the block to the shop which is going to build your engine and have them check it out first as I find it not possible to check the bore with a keyboard! ;)
Click to expand...
"Dial Bore Keyboard" lol
 
Excuse me your smart ass comments are not needed the block went to the machine shop last night . The problem is u guys are so quick to try to be funny I was simply trying to tap resources of people with experience I don't have as to what combos work well or parts manufacturers they would recommend

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While you are talking keyboards I wonder if I was to come to u in person and politely ask the question ask would u still be a smart ass or treat me the way I was treating

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The resources of people that know what they're talking about know that the only way to KNOW what you have it put it on the tools and measure it.


Good luck with your build. Sounds like you're going to need it. These engines can be finicky.


I say sleeve the shit out of it, then come back and show all of us smart asses how much we don't know with your 'low 11/high 10' time slip!
 
I'm not sure yet I'm hoping he gets it torn down today . I was kinda thinking going steel crank h beam rods and forged pistons

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dominique matlock said:
Excuse me your smart ass comments are not needed the block went to the machine shop last night . The problem is u guys are so quick to try to be funny I was simply trying to tap resources of people with experience I don't have as to what combos work well or parts manufacturers they would recommend

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Click to expand...
Take it easy dude, everyone is here to help.
 
Have you considered which fuel system combo you're gonna have the engine running on to reach those goals?

Are you gonna be using pump gas 93 or higher octane with an alky kit, are you gonna use e-85 with alky or are you gonna use unleaded / leaded race fuel with alky to feed the motor?

The build recommendations vary depending on how your fueling choice is gonna be and how much boost you're attempting to run it at to attempt to make those goals.
You need to decide on how you're gonna feed the engine, as that's gonna have a major impact on what parts build route you could possible go in that'd get you to your goals or at least near them on paper.
There's many ways to build a turbo buick v6 motor that'll stay together to be capable to run low 11's to high 10's, just a matter of is the rest of the car capable to allow the engine to get there and technique of the driver in the seat will also allow for it.
Hopefully after you do get the engine built, you have someone that can safely aid in tuning the car to be able to run properly for wot blasts and be reliable for daily driving use to not be going through a rebuild again.



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