dyno numbers with GN-1's and roller cam DISSAPOINTMENT

[slimtastic]

this weekend i went out to dyno tune my updated combination and worked my way up to 15 lbs and called it quits as i was out of time(and money) to go for a bigger ammount of boost.

long story short i made alot less than what i thought for 15 lbs i was gonna put down for power and im not sure why. on 15 lbs on 93 octane i made 364 hp near 5500 redline...no torque figures as the dyno wasnt able to pick up a clean tach signal for my car

combo as follows
stock short block
1999 prod date GN1 heads (very light bowl work) port matched to 1200's and a fresh valve job/ behive springs
1.65 t/d rockers
comp cams 218-212 roller kit
6262 JB billet wheel .63 housing
120 lbs injectors
stock intake port matched to 1200s
stock TB and upper with RJC plate
atr dr side headr/ stock pass side/ 2.% crossover
3inch THDP
big front mount intercooler 3 inch ins and outs
BS3 with a 11.00 AFR and 21.5 degrees of timing at 15lbs


the only difference in the combo is the roller cam kit and the aluminum heads, on my old 212-212 wiped cam/stock head setup with busted valvesprings and one ruined valve seat i made 402 at 20 lbs and 370 at 17 lbs


any thoughts as to what could be missing from the combo? i know the boost is low but at the same time the airflow is there to make more power than what i put down...:frown:

 

[6togo]

120lb injectors for that setup sounds big to me probably work better with 60's.

 

[jdpolzin]

Sounds like you made decent power for straight 93 with those mods at only 15psi. What were you expecting?

 

[big reazon]

Its not always peak numbers you want to chase what does your dyno curve look like compared to you your old curves does it jump up quick and stay there or is it a long slow incline. Also based on what I know on other motors you may have over cammed it for the way your motor is set up.

 

[KL Mallender]

I think you proved what a roller cam of less effective duration was worth on your engine, what did you expect?
I'll bet it idles nice, but your a sap to think you were going to make power above 4500, member since 2002? what have you learned?
Sorry to be so blunt, but..hang on a sec....bet you have a 3500 stall converter too?
If so you probably are just getting into good boost and then you feel a cork up it's ass, how far off am I?
Good luck, you have some learning ahead.

Kevin.

 

[pacecarta]

what 5500 redline are you talking about
id spin that to 6300
if you wanted 5500 as your ceiling you should have gone with a 206

 

[smoke20]

Bigger is not always better. Bigger haeds have same cc? could have loss compression

 

[big reazon]

Yeah he lost dynamic compression so in my theory he should now be able to run more boost with less alky than he would have before. So he just raised his boost limit with that cam.

 

[KL Mallender]

what 5500 redline are you talking about
id spin that to 6300
if you wanted 5500 as your ceiling you should have gone with a 206

I swear, sometimes this group can be a poster child for stupid and I'm NOT kidding.

Kevin.

 

[2QUICK2B6]

put some good gas in it an turn the boost up the billet shines at 28 psi plus

your test aka dyno was like getting micheal phelps to swim with 1 lung and high

 

[pajo]

I believe "pacecarta" might have a point , you are "opened" up if you will for high rpm horsepower(aluminum heads with bigger valves -roller cam,big injectors ) and I believe that will show when you compare to your old combo "20"psi boost to the new when you reach that boost. Since I am from the old school I can tell you every time I went to a bigger cam i suffered from low rpm flop house syndrome but rewarding high rpm freight train pull . This is just my two cents and I am sure somebody with more experience will chime in and give us some insight..

 

[2QUICK2B6]

higher the lift higher the peak rpm band becomes

 

[smoke20]

I just had one on the dyno that cal tuned last monday with stock heads on 17 psi made 490 on 110 less injector less cam I would try to match stuff better

 

[forcefed3.8's]

At 15psi, the heads and cam will do nothing. The cam is a 9 sec grind. A smaller cam will work better. As far as rpms, the engine needs more air to want the rpms. Spinning it higher will do nothing. This is a total mismatch in parts. The turbo would be fine (when running high boost) with ported irons and a 212/212. A 206/206 would be fine if running low boost. Also when running low boost, a smaller turbo would do the same. I would almost bet a TE44 would make close to the same power here.

 

[JT'sV6]

Was the converter locked?

 

[turbobuick]

any thoughts as to what could be missing from the combo? :

Boost!

 

[slimtastic]

120lb injectors for that setup sounds big to me probably r haeds have same cc? could have loss compression

well if its sequential and the injectors cost the same (inthis case "free") than its not a horrid choice cause it idles fine and i can control the afr's fine. the gn1's are resurfaced .020

Its not always peak numbers you want to chase what does your dyno curve look like compared to you your old curves does it jump up quick and stay there or is it a long slow incline. Also based on what I know on other motors you may have over cammed it for the way your motor is set up.

the dyno graph levels off...no real incline to speak of. kinda tough to tell as the dyno operator wasnt able to get a clean tach signal so im guessing off mph

I think you proved what a roller cam of less effective duration was worth on your engine, what did you expect?
I'll bet it idles nice, but your a sap to think you were going to make power above 4500, member since 2002? what have you learned?
Sorry to be so blunt, but..hang on a sec....bet you have a 3500 stall converter too?
If so you probably are just getting into good boost and then you feel a cork up it's ass, how far off am I?
Good luck, you have some learning about manners ahead.

Kevin.

dude your a god among men with the ammount of knowledge you possess, now get the F%^K off my thread. if you have no helpfull info to enlighten me (or others) with then please go troll other threads you kung fu keyboard warrior

Good luck, you have some learning ahead.

Yeah he lost dynamic compression so in my theory he should now be able to run more boost with less alky than he would have before. So he just raised his boost limit with that cam.

so while i see 15 lbs on the gauge, the "effective boost" due to the cam could be closer to 13-14? would rolling the cam to lower the powerband help or is it just going to nullify what i already have?

I believe "pacecarta" might have a point , you are "opened" up if you will for high rpm horsepower(aluminum heads with bigger valves -roller cam,big injectors ) and I believe that will show when you compare to your old combo "20"psi boost to the new when you reach that boost. Since I am from the old school I can tell you every time I went to a bigger cam i suffered from low rpm flop house syndrome but rewarding high rpm freight train pull . This is just my two cents and I am sure somebody with more experience will chime in and give us some insight..

sounds like i just wasnt reving it hard enough and needed more psi... can i take a stock bottom end to 6300? seems a bit on edge

 

[KL Mallender]

Welcome to the land of "Kiss My Ass", you are reason enough why time and effort should not be wasted, as you said, "YOUR" thread, so be it **** nutts.


Kevin.

 

[pajo]

I would suggest 20 -22 psi,race gas,proper timing, 5800-6000 rpm and then go from there .

 

[slimtastic]

Welcome to the land of "Kiss My Ass", you are reason enough why time and effort should not be wasted, as you said, "YOUR" thread, so be it **** nutts.


Kevin.

10-4 dude