DS Header Removal

bmackinnon

Active Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2005
When removing the DS header, will it come out the top of the engine compartment? I have all the bolts out, and it's completely loose, but doesn't seem to want to find it's way out the top. I didn't loosen/remove the wire loom that goes across the DS valve cover because I've heard people have a hard time with the studs/nuts that hold it down... so I wanted to ask first before I made any further attempt at a top removal strategy.... I also obviously didn't loosen the crossover at the passenger side header... and the header doesn't appear to want to come out the bottom like that either....

So... I'm left with either moving the loom/wiring out of the way (?) if it will even come out the top?? or loosening the Pass. side of the crossover so I can move it around to get the header out the bottom?? ... which I'd also rather not do, since I may break a bolt and it's sealed up good over there...

Oh... and I have vac. brakes also.... if that matters? The booster might intrude into some space the PM didn't.......

Advice from experience, please?? :redface:
 
Not really the answer I wanted to hear... :frown: I was hoping not to have to loosen that crossover on the PS, lest I give the car a chance to cuss me back in the form of a broken bolt... :mad:

So the header will NOT come out the top, barring unreasonable means? :confused:
 
When I replaced my drivers side header I disconnected the crossover and took off the wheel to access some of the header bolts.
 
Mine came out the top but I took all of it off because I was having it coated.
 
I replaced the drivers' side years ago, and pulled it out the bottom easily, while still having the crossover pipe fully attached on the passenger side. I just wiggled and angled it around a bit.
 
That's more like it!! :biggrin: So it 'should' come out either way!! Perhaps I just haven't hit upon the proper combination of curse words... :p I will resume my efforts! :cool:
 
That's more like it!! :biggrin: So it 'should' come out either way!! Perhaps I just haven't hit upon the proper combination of curse words... :p I will resume my efforts! :cool:

As I recall it takes a few of the stronger words in combination. Better wait until the kids are gone.

It seems like there's a big enough gap to pull it out toward the firewall between the PM and the valve cover. You have to slide it to the back turn it 90 degrees and lift it out.

But that was 6 years ago when I did it so I'm fuzzy.
 
I replaced the drivers' side years ago, and pulled it out the bottom easily, while still having the crossover pipe fully attached on the passenger side. I just wiggled and angled it around a bit.

Yep.... a few more creative language expressions added to the above, and it came right out! :biggrin: Now I have another question....

When I install my repaired spare, do I first install and tighten all 6 studs for the header... and then the y-shaped bracket for the alt (#1 top stud) and the L-shaped bracket for the A/C (#1 bottom stud) both go on over the already tightened header studs and are secured with the nuts? Is that correct? ie.... neither bracket goes 'under' the hex on the stud... correct?
 
and one more question...

.... just how flat must the header flange be?? Both the old one I removed and the spare I plan to install are a bit out of flat, with the center port standing up a hair higher than the ends.... ie.. when installing, the #1 and #5 sides will have to 'pull in' a tad as I tighten the bolts.... is this ok?? I put a straight edge across it, and it will 'rock' left and right a tiny bit.... like maybe 1/32"... should I go to the trouble of getting to a belt sander and trying to get it more flat? I don't plan on using any gasket, and to my knowledge, the old header wasn't leaking at the flange.... opinions?
 
and one more question...

.... just how flat must the header flange be?? Both the old one I removed and the spare I plan to install are a bit out of flat, with the center port standing up a hair higher than the ends.... ie.. when installing, the #1 and #5 sides will have to 'pull in' a tad as I tighten the bolts.... is this ok?? I put a straight edge across it, and it will 'rock' left and right a tiny bit.... like maybe 1/32"... should I go to the trouble of getting to a belt sander and trying to get it more flat? I don't plan on using any gasket, and to my knowledge, the old header wasn't leaking at the flange.... opinions?

Flatter is better with sealing surfaces.
 
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