Doing Dutt. neck mod....have a ? about it

[turbota633]

i am in the process of doing the Duttweiler neck mod to my ic, in the process of finding someone to weld it for me, in the meantime my dad who works at Aircraft Braking Systems told me about this epoxy they use, he said it MIGHT work, but isn't 100% positive, i'm looking for input on this, do you guys believe it would work? how hot does the ic get at the neck where the epoxy would be used? he says he has seen parts with this epoxy used on it make it through a bluing tank which he says is 800-900 degrees. just looking for input...i suppose if it weren't to hold, i could have it welded.
-Joe

 

[BlackBandit]

With epoxy the vibrations could cause it to fail, pieces could come off the inside and go into the I/C, it might leak, lots of possabilities. I'd just have it welded and be done with it, that way you won't have to do it over if the epoxy fails. If you cut the old neck off and prep the surfaces most any shop that can tig weld will probably do it for a few bucks. I think I paid $20. Guy wanted like $10 but he was really cool. I just walked in with my I/C and a dutt neck and did it on the spot.

 

[turbota633]

i figured that's what i would do.....but i thought that maybe i need to give the welder the ic as a whole...uncut and not prepped that way they could reference from the old neck before it was cut off to ensure proper alignment of the new big neck..... thanks
-Joe

 

[jhanson1750]

I think your idea of handing over an uncut IC is the way to go, would hate to get it back and things "not line up just right" just my .02

 

[BlackBandit]

I suppose for most handing over an uncut I/C would be best. I'm just meticulous and don't really trust anyone else to do much on my car so I did the cut and prefit myself. Basically, I didn't want to get it back and have things just not line up. As an added bonus I only had to find someone to weld it real quick instead of measuring, cutting, welding. This enabled me to find a welder on a Saturday. I tend to be pretty impatiant when I get a new car part.

 

[VadersV6]

That neck sees some load so I wouldnt even think about epoxy. Been down that road before and ended up with broken parts.

 

[turbota633]

thanks to all for the input, i too am meticulous and want to do thsi all myself, but dont have a welder, my uncle has a mig welder, but i think my dad was advisign me to use a differet type of welder, i forget which kind he said though, ...i always put him to work with me when i play with my car stuff, him being a machinist and all ...its always helpful.
-Joe

 

[Razor]

How fast is this car?

How fast are you trying to get it togo?

Is it the stock TTA IC your gonna modify?.. you know these are rare :redface:

This is one of those areas of the car that may not yield any benefit.. depending on performance level. If your TTA is running mid 11's.. then it may help.

 

[bison]

If its a stock TTA/GNX intercooler i wouldnt cut it up. It absolutely need to be TIG welded. Not MIG. Very inexpensive and easy for a pro welder to do.

 

[turbota633]

oh nooo, i picked up a stock GN IC for cheap to do this lil' project. i have a box with all the stock stuff that comes off the TTA, i wouldn't hack the TTA ic up. the welder at my dad's workplace is gonna do this for me at no cost, i just need to cut and prep it for him.

The car last year ran a 13.00x and i don't remember the speed(i wanna say 106), that was on race gas set up before i decided it was way too expensive for the average guy like me, since then i've went the alky route, got a new TT chip to match(as seen in my sig with the rest of my mods). The car feels stronger now than it did at the time of my best 1/4mi time. i know the car had with the previous set up and now has a mid 12 in it, i just need to learn learn learn and tune tune tune, i'm gettin more knowledgable and better at it as the time goes on. my problem last year was i couldn't 60 ft. that car for sh*t, i donno why...i had new set of Mickey T's drag radial and couldn't cut under a 2.01 60ft....i could get around 3-ish psi bost off the line. i think maybe i didn't let enough tire presssure out and i think i may have not heated them up enough before the run, which leads me to my next question.....

approx. how much tire pressure do you guys run in your drag radials at the track?

my goal is mid-low 12 street driven car, which i know is possible, and i have enough faith in my setup and my tuning capabilities that i think i can acheive this. i think once i learn to 60ft the car, i will drop at leat 2-3 tenths off my 1/4 time.

i realize that maybe this dutt neck won't do a whole lot, but i've always said and belived that a little bit here and there adds up to a lot.

All help is appreciated.
-Joe

 

[UNGN]

With Drag Radials, tire pressure is not as critical as tire/track prep and cleanliness or driver technique.

I have cut a 1.66 60 ft with 24 psi in the tires, right off the street. 18 psi is a good starting point.

After the first burnout, avoid dirt, gravel, crushed rock and grass like the plague. Drive through or park in any of these after a run and your traction is about done for the night.

For a launch technique, do not pedal the car. With drag radials, you need to be at WOT and stay there.

The best launch is to rapidly floor the gas, while still applying brake...then release the brake as the boost comes up. The intent is to leave with the suspension loaded enough to plant the tires. If you pedal the car, the tires will not plant.

 

[Ormand]

It absolutely need to be TIG welded. Not MIG

There are a lot more welders who can TIG aluminum than MIG it, but if you have find a qualified welder who can do it with MIG, that should work fine. The difference from one process to another is a lot less than the difference between a good welder and a half-a$$ one.

 

[VadersV6]

Mig always seems to end up more pourous and ugly, but maybe Ive just never known a good Mig welder. Ive seen tig and the quality is far superior. But that could have had more to do with the person doing it. Either way would be better than epoxy.

 

[turbota633]

For a launch technique, do not pedal the car. With drag radials, you need to be at WOT and stay there.

The best launch is to rapidly floor the gas, while still applying brake...then release the brake as the boost comes up. The intent is to leave with the suspension loaded enough to plant the tires. If you pedal the car, the tires will not plant.

this seems like something i will have to do while ignoring my reaction time, and seems as if it will take a lil' practice to get the technique just right in order to step it up a notch and try to get this in sequence with the lights. how do you do this rapid throttle thing without letting the tires cut loose, or is that all judged by how long you heat the rubber up in the burnout box? i may be wrong, but i feel as if its either tires let loose, or the car creeps which would red light me...not that it matters because to me its not if i beat the guy in the opposing lane, or the R/T(although good ones are exciting) but its the 60ft., 1/4 mi and speed that are more important. Thanks!
-Joe

 

[eddc87]

Mig always seems to end up more pourous and ugly, but maybe Ive just never known a good Mig welder. Ive seen tig and the quality is far superior. But that could have had more to do with the person doing it. Either way would be better than epoxy.

We at DC Tech have done 30 to 40 of these modifications and they have to be tig welded to be done right. Typically mig on cast aluminum doesn't work as well as tig because mig has to be run to fast to keep up with the wire that is fed and the heat involved is not great enought to get proper penetration. Anytime you weld two pieces of aluminum together you need to taper both sides of the part to get good penetration and especially if you are going to grind the welds smooth. You want something left after you grind to hold the parts together. We do a lot of both tig and mig in aluminum and stainless steel for the food processing industry everyday. So in my humble opinion, have it tig welded.

 

[Razor]

I did get my TTA to run 11.40 on radials with an untouched IC.

Takes time, practice, patience, and most of all seat time.

 

[turbota633]

I did get my TTA to run 11.40 on radials with an untouched IC.

Takes time, practice, patience, and most of all seat time.

there's just something i'm not doin right, i was disappointed last year when i couldn't break into the 12's. this summer i plan to get out to the track and get some more experience and figure these things out.
-Joe

 

[Ormand]

If you check the web pages for either Hobart or Miller, they both have some information on using MIG to weld aluminum. Since they both make many, many welding machines, I tend to think that THEY know what they are talking about. As I said above, many people don't do as well with MIG, and if the shop you're dealing with can't use it, then go with whatever they are good at.