Diy alchy Basics for beginners

Turbo__Tim

One heck of a Tim!
Joined
May 25, 2001
I'm bored, and awake at 4:30 AM, to here is some basic information for those just learning about alchy systems...

Components:

Tank: could be the overflow tank, of windshield tank. Anything that will safely hold an alcohol mixture will do.

Pump: Shurflo, or Flojet. Both handle denatured alchy.

Hobbs Switch: Any pressure activated switch. This is mounted on the up-pipe (for instance) and has 2 ground wires running to it. It is adjustable, and closes the circuit at a pressure point you select.

Solenoid: used in a 2 stage system to activate the second stage. Activated by a second hobbs switch.

Hoses: Anything that will safely carry the alchy from the pump, or solenoid, to the nozzles.

Nozzles: last stop for the alchy, before entering the up-pipe. As the pressurized alchy passes through this, it is forced trhough a small oriface creating the desired spray pattern or fine mist that enters the intake, and is digested by the engine.

Here is what happens when you go wide open throttle:

Boost rises to, say, 12 psi, on it's way to 22 psi. As 10 psi level is reached, the hobbs switch (located in the up-pipe) sees the 10 psi level you have set it to sense, and closes its internal contacts. The pump that has been just sitting there (has a positive lead hot to it already) has been waiting for the switch to complete the ground allowing it to turn on.

The pump turns on, drawing alchy from the alchy tank, pushing it at 60 psi down a hose to a 'Y' connector. One side of the 'Y' goes to a solenoid that is closed at this moment, so the pressurized fluid goes where it can. It goes through a hose off the other side of the 'Y' to a nozzle mounted to the up-pipe.

2 Seconds later the boost has risen to say 18 psi, and a second hobbs switch that has been set to activate at this level, activates and closes the 2 ground wires attahed to it.

The solenoid that has been sitting there with a hot lead connected to it, now has the ground side of its circuit completed and can now do it's job.

Remember the 'Y' connector? The pump that is still running, has been able to flow fluid through only one side of the 'Y' because the solenoid on the other side has been closed up to this point. Now with the activation of the second Hobbs switch, the solenoid opens, and alchy flows through it, through a hose, and into the second nozzle attached to the up-pipe.

That's enough typing practice, I'm getting verrrrry sleeeeepy......
Hope this answers some questions. :)
 
Yes the propane hobbs is on the up-pipe, along with the 2 alchy lines. Looks bad, (ugly bad*G*) like there is a big ole bug on there, but I ran out of 10 mm line installing the second stage of the alchy. It's temporary. :)
 
Tim if you run any alcohol..you should use teflon lined hosed. Cuase alky will dry rubber hose out..and you know what can happen..

Your Hobbs switches should be used to trigger Bosch relays not the pump itself..to transfer power to the pump.

Container should be thick plastic for denatured..for mix..any will do.

Boost trigger can come off the main vacuum sources..doesnt have to be in the up-pipe. I tie my alky stuff with my boost guage..that way if a line is blown off..My guage will go to zero..

I'll throw these bones in.
 
Good tips! I like the idea of a relay. Much better! :)

I use 10mm plastic line, glad you cleared that up. Rubber shouldn't be used....

The plastic line I use gets changed every year because it dries out, and becomes brittle. Prolly good for many years, but for 10 bucks, and 10 minutes time it's worth the piece of mind.
 
Just get yer self some teflon braided hose..ya buy it one time and forget about it. Plus if anything flies around your engine compartment..the line wont be severed..

safety issue..run braided..go to any local hose supplier and get them to make you a hose.You can use brass fittings..and save money there..but not the hose. I wouldnt..not when only 20 bucks are what we're dealing with.

this goes with the hard plastic container..make it hard for a piece of metal to puncture

This is where the SMC kit shines the best..
 
I'm still confused about the pump. I've read other threads where they talk about the sureflo from northern hyd. I've loked the pump up by part # and it not rated for the psi that everyone talks about. Can anyone clear this up for me?thanks
 
Razor, a question about your replies to Tim:
Where can I buy Bosch relays? I know these are suppose to be good (better than Radio Shack) but do not know where best place to buy.
Is there a trade name for the braided teflon lined hose? Is this what you would use throughout all the hose connections? With clamps or push-lok style fittings?

Good question by Pat.

paul :cool:
 
relays

Paul, I go to the local junk yard. For $10 I can get a bucket full of relays, connectors and fuse holders, plus extra wire. All GM vehicles have good relays under the hood. The newer front wheel drives have many of them. Cheap!!
 
Paul, the Bosch relay is just a 5 terminal 35 amp relay. Most German cars come with them.Most stereo shops handle them. I have bought them as cheap as 2.50..expect to pay around 5 dollars.

I dont like using Junkyard relays..cuase i dont know how old/condition they are in.
Sometimes this DIY thing gets too too cheap..

As far as the hose..use AN fittings and brass fittings. Earls,Russel,etc sell this type of hose..most sell it prefabbed..Summit, Jegs,etc..

Hose stores..look into your phone book..and yes its braided hose.. if you have to use a clamp..be certain its not going to come of. Alky pumps can make 100 PSI.. not a small block chevy fuel pump..

safety..do the best you can so it doesnt leak.

Julio
 
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