Cummins Turbo Diesel fans?

Boost231

What's An Intercooler
Staff member
It's simple guys, I run either one of these. Shit part is these filters are stupid expensive compared to the 5.9 filters





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Boost231

What's An Intercooler
Staff member
Thos is the filter under the valve cover I'm talking about. Pull it gut the filter and run a vent



This will eliminate alot of crankcase back pressure

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Jerryl

Tall Chinese Guy
It's simple guys, I run either one of these. Shit part is these filters are stupid expensive compared to the 5.9 filters




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Thanks.
Yeah . . The CTD is pretty simple to work on as well compared to others.
 

Jerryl

Tall Chinese Guy
Thos is the filter under the valve cover I'm talking about. Pull it gut the filter and run a vent



This will eliminate alot of crankcase back pressure

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I will do that.
Surprised you are getting away with some of the mods in Cali. Lol
 

Boost231

What's An Intercooler
Staff member
True. For me it's the pay and what I'll have in retirement when that time comes.

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grass doctor

Dream Catcher
then don't mess with it , minor mods , air in air out and don't fall for the air itntake horn crap just need a better air box and exhaust and be done , like I said if you want a tuner smarty jr. is only one that won't leave a foot print and can put back to stock
 

Boost231

What's An Intercooler
Staff member
then don't mess with it , minor mods , air in air out and don't fall for the air itntake horn crap just need a better air box and exhaust and be done , like I said if you want a tuner smarty jr. is only one that won't leave a foot print and can put back to stock
Wrong. I'll explain more in a few

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grass doctor

Dream Catcher
sorry I'm wrong, just saying if you want reliable then don't mess with it too much thats why they have warranties, keep like the engineers intended for it to be and diesels are all about air in and air out , I have 200 k on my cummins with just minor mods for towing and better fuel economy , hopefully get another 100 k out of her , you know the old sang if it aint broke then don't fix it , but please tell me how im wrong , love to learn new things
 

Boost231

What's An Intercooler
Staff member
sorry I'm wrong, just saying if you want reliable then don't mess with it too much thats why they have warranties, keep like the engineers intended for it to be and diesels are all about air in and air out , I have 200 k on my cummins with just minor mods for towing and better fuel economy , hopefully get another 100 k out of her , you know the old sang if it aint broke then don't fix it , but please tell me how im wrong , love to learn new things
Give me a few hours. I'm on the freeway

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Boost231

What's An Intercooler
Staff member
Let me see if I can clear a few things up for everyone.

I have a 2012 6.7 Cummins. Everything I'm about to talk about will be the same for the 2012 and up models.




I'm with all of you in wanting to get the most reliability out of the Cummins. Some of the items that will help with reliability will also help with performance but performance wasn't my goal. There are several issues with the Ram platform but most are easy to address.


The one major problem is the Transmission. The 68RFE isn't that great neither is the Aisin. The major issue with them that can be addressed is the lack of line pressure. They are factory limited to around 160psi except reverse. They're a few ways to address this issue.

1. With a Del tuner like EFI live you can get Trans Tunning with your Engine Tune. This will help increase the line pressure to 175 but you will now be limited by the factory valvebody.

2. Get a Revmax valvebody. https://revmaxconverters.com/product/68rfe-high-performance-towinghd-valve-body/ or the zero flex version. https://revmaxconverters.com/produc...billet-high-performance-towing-hd-valve-body/ this will now allow you to get 250psi of line pressure to every gear.

3. Rebuild the Trans.

Now if you don't want to del the emissions off your truck and want to address the Transmission issue there is 2 way.

1. Do a tunner like EFI Live or MM3 and just use it for the trans. Not sure why you would do this but you can

2. Get the Trans computer from https://revmaxconverters.com/produc...MI0eeMyqPK4wIVgcBkCh10Xw8GEAQYAyABEgJMPvD_BwE

Now that you addressed the line pressure issue you need to address the shit plastic internal oil filter screw. https://revmaxconverters.com/product/68rfe-transmission-spin-on-filter-screw-steel-upgrade/
This is a must when you do your trans service IMOP

Now for the 2013+ guys you need to address one other issue and that's the factory fluid bypass. This is a must to get temps down and prevent failure. https://revmaxconverters.com/product/68rfe-transmission-cooler-thermostatic-bypass-upgrade/


So now that we address one issue lets take a look at a few more.

Since we talked about a few different tuners above lets talk about them.

I really like the EFI live (I have draconian tunning) on m truck with Trans tunning. the trans tunning is amazing and really makes the truck shift better and puts it in the correct power band so it doesn't lug, Arnarchy Tunning is awesome and if I was to try another tunner I would use them. The reason I went EFI live is because I already had a Edge CTS2 monitor. If I didn't have that I would get the MM3 as it does everything the EDGE does. The MM# wasn't out when I got my EFI live.

The CTS2 monitor is great as you can log everything, I have EGT, Fuel pressure and drive pressure add ons on mine. you get all the factory reading as well but these are nice options to have. I'm not sure what add ons you can do to the MM3.


Since somone talked about the SMARTY let me address that.. The smarty and smarty jr are old school tuners. When EFI live came out it made the smarty look like junk. Does and has the smarty worked sure but its old school.

Now as someone else said the footprint when using these on the stock computer. on the 2012+ it doesn't matter what tuner you use it will show a footprint on the stock computer and will void the warranty.



Ok enough about that.


Next Issue is the Turbo, It seems to be around 100K plus that the stock turbo can start taking a crap. Not to say yours wont make it to 500K but at 100K you need to start watching Drive Pressure as the stock VGT Vanes can start hanging up. Once this happens you will have high drive pressure and will blow a head gasket. there are many option when it becomes turbo time so I wont get into that.


Now another issue.

The stock head bolts are ok but if you start messing with anything over stock tunning you should look at head studs. They are expensive but easy to do as with the cumming you can just do one at a time and not have to do a headgasket.


Lets talk about the stock air box.

The stock airbox will not be a restriction or anything with a stock level turbo truck. There is really no gain by changing it out. Yes I have a banks airbox and have noticed a slight drop in IAT but I only did it because I didn't want to keep buying factory filters. S&B makes a sweet system as well but just remember if you do buy one of these if you ever go to a non factory style turbo and manifold the air box wont work.


Another item that was brought up is the intake horn. If your deleted this mod IMOP helps with the addition of the AIR BOSS.




https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com...ted-grid-heater-075-18-67l-dodge-cummins.aspx


The problem with the stock grid heater and horn is that the grid heater really effects the flow of air to the back 2 cylinders of the motor. with the grid heater delt or using the GDP s2 horn with the GDP grid heater and AIR BOSS this will fix the issue. Another advantage of this is the EGT's will be cooler. I noticed around 75 - 100 deg decrease in EGTS across the board with this alone.



No lets talk Emission Delt.

If you can get away with it where you live it should and needs to be done. The amout of EGR gases that gets put back into the motor will blow your mind. if you want just google it and you can see some of the photos of how much the soot plugs the grid heater. I deleted mine after 500 miles on the motor and I couldn't believe how nasty it was already.


Another issue that needs to be address on 2012 and earlier models it the fuel. We all know with diesel fuel that dirty fuel kills diesel motors. in 2013 they added more fuel filters so its not really a issue. If you have a 2012 I would look into adding a additional fuel filter or pump setup. Airdog / FASS / and AFE make good stuff. I have a AFE DFS780 on mine.

No mater what year truck you have make sure you change the filters often. I change mine every 10K. depending on how dirty your fuel is in the area you live you might have to do it more or less.



I talked about the crank case CCV filter.. you should google this. Take the time gut it and dump the vent to atmosphere and plug the hole going to the turbo where the factory hose was. I know I don't need to really talk about why you should do this.


Anyways so a recap.

If you have a cummins I would do the following at min. for reliability

Emission Del (remove cooler and all) if you can

EFI Live with Trans Tunning or MM3 with trans tunning and monitor. (EGT atleast if towing )

billet trans filter screw

Grid Heater Del or go with the GPD stuff

and if you don't have a 2013 plus a fuel system or secondary fitler setup.


if you have a 2013 you need the fluid bypass from revmax.



Hope this helps
 

grass doctor

Dream Catcher
nice post , I guess im old school :cool: you like the 5.9 or the 6.7 better? I like that I don't have any emission BS , EGR or DEF.
 

Boost231

What's An Intercooler
Staff member
I'm in training right now I'll type about that later

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grass doctor

Dream Catcher
when I was researching tunners they all said (the guys on cummins forums) that the smarty jr was the safest and the only one that didn't leave a foot print and only one that you could put ecm back to stock setting with out having to go to dealership to do it , but this was about 8 years ago LOL.
 
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