Couple Snaps of my Bare Block finally back from machine shop

Hatdragracer

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2012
Had the block Magnafluxued, bored from .020 to .030, Deck resurfaced with torqe plate, and had the mains line honed with the steel caps torqued and ARP Main studs.

Crank is an Eagle Forged
Diamond Pistons
Molnar Rods
King Main bearings
Sealed Power Rod Bearings

Anyone happen to know the correct length, thread for oil pickup bolts?
 

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Nice project! Have you had the rotating assembly balanced yet? I'm kina curious as to how much or how little prep the Eagle crank may need.
 
Nice project! Have you had the rotating assembly balanced yet? I'm kina curious as to how much or how little prep the Eagle crank may need.


Has anyone used one of these 4140 internal balance cranks? The price looks pretty good compared to the 4340 internal balance cranks.
 
The crank main journals and rod journals mic'd out good. Still waiting for the rods so I can take everything out and get it balanced.

Will get pics and share the engine build sheet so far....the rods won't be here for another couple weeks.

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Any progress? Sure looks purty so far. Using iron or aluminum heads? Cam?

Jay J
 
Not yet...just got the Molnar rods on Tuesday so not balanced yet.

Will have iron champion heads and a comp 215 roller with morell lifters.


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What machine shop around here did your work? Just curious for future reference. I know G&G in Tomball does some. Are you assembling yourself?


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Has anyone used one of these 4140 internal balance cranks? The price looks pretty good compared to the 4340 internal balance cranks.

I was told by a very well known engine builder not to even bother with the 4140 cranks, they are brittle and wont flex under boost making them prone to cracks and breakage, may as well stick your stock crank after its be treated and it will work better than a 4140, you pay for what you get for, stick to what works and whats been proven, the 4340's have been tested in many cars and will handle over 1,000 RWHP you pay a little more but well worth the money..
 
Has anyone used one of these 4140 internal balance cranks? The price looks pretty good compared to the 4340 internal balance cranks.
Is the crank case hardened? 4140 is a great steel...but only because it case hardens very evenly. After final machine...case it. Then Cryo it twice...then have it polished again. Flexibility will be greatly reduced. My local engine builder is also a Crank and Rod designer for Lunati and Childs-Alberts, Kellogg and others. He is a master of strengthening crankshafts. Heat-treating the overseas cranks is a must in his opinion.


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Is the crank case hardened? 4140 is a great steel...but only because it case hardens very evenly. After final machine...case it. Then Cryo it twice...then have it polished again. Flexibility will be greatly reduced. My local engine builder is also a Crank and Rod designer for Lunati and Childs-Alberts, Kellogg and others. He is a master of strengthening crankshafts. Heat-treating the overseas cranks is a must in his opinion.


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Thanks for the advice. I would assume I can find these services pretty easily in Houston.

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Is the crank case hardened? 4140 is a great steel...but only because it case hardens very evenly. After final machine...case it. Then Cryo it twice...then have it polished again. Flexibility will be greatly reduced. My local engine builder is also a Crank and Rod designer for Lunati and Childs-Alberts, Kellogg and others. He is a master of strengthening crankshafts. Heat-treating the overseas cranks is a must in his opinion.


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I doubt that is the case with the 4140's, if so be prepared to spend another $300 to case it, Cryo and polish again., good luck. LOL
 
I doubt that is the case with the 4140's, if so be prepared to spend another $300 to case it, Cryo and polish again., good luck. LOL

My goal is 600hp....the 4140 crank is affordable and I think fits my goals well. I have no expectations of 1000hp!

The cast crank in my car has enough visible porosity that I am inclined not to trust it.

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The case hardening helps the wear characteristics and flexing. 600 ponies is nothing to sneeze at. It's just advise. It's well worth the added $$$...IMHO


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I finally got the bottom end together. The crank was at the high end of its tolerances on both the rods and mains. The crank was not modified other than the balancing, the mains and rods were resized a little to get the clearances. The main journal clearances were at .0023, the rods were at .0021.
I had an issue with one of the rocker shafts with some of the rockers binding when bolting down...I will post that seperately.
 

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Is that a damn Pringles lid on your oil pump?!! lol

I love seeing parts I built on engine builds :)
 
Didn't lose it...just having trouble with rocker bind...I'll try taking it apart swapping the rocker shaft end to end tomorrow.

Earl...yes...that is the same lid you put on the cover when you shipped.

I get more practice installing as like a dummy I left the oil slinger out!

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