combination power estimate

[marc daniels]

109 block +.020
gn1 stroker kit
mildly ported GN1 aluminums 1.65rr
roller cam (not purchased yet) 210/215 @.050
head/main studs, billet caps, cometics .040
champ intake w/70mm TB
gn1 extreme front mount
razor alky
3200 vigilante L/U 9.5"
PT 6766 BB @28lbs (turbo not purchased yet)
80lb inj/ 450lph walbro pump
estimate 22degrees timing street car full weight 93/alky

any guestimations on how much power I should see on the tire? I want a relatively quick spool up
should I make any changes?

 

[Nick Micale]

My comments, an exhaust biased cam would not be one I would use with your heads and a stroker build.

A 3200 LU Vigilante would also be my last choice on a converter, especially if you want quick spooling.

We have seen 550 RWHP with similar builds.

Good luck on your final results whatever you decide.

 

[Boost231]

Thoughts of 28psi with pump and Alky. Nice....

 

[fastblackracing]

My comments, an exhaust biased cam would not be one I would use with your heads and a stroker build.QUOTE]

A 3200 LU Vigilante would also be my last choice on a converter.......

I came to the conclusion years ago that the only thing my vigilante converter was good for was
tucking it into the spare tire well in the trunk to help the car make weight for class racing at
bowling green......

Once you get your cam choice settled get a hold of dusty bradford on here and get the proper converter

 

[turbocamino1]

My comments, an exhaust biased cam would not be one I would use with your heads and a stroker build.

A 3200 LU Vigilante would also be my last choice on a converter, especially if you want quick spooling.

We have seen 550 RWHP with similar builds.

Good luck on your final results whatever you decide.

Nick , are you handicapping it this much because of the converter or cam choice? otherwise ,i was thinking at 28 Lbs to be much much more than 550.

 

[Nick Micale]

Nick , are you handicapping it this much because of the converter or cam choice? otherwise ,i was thinking at 28 Lbs to be much much more than 550.

You are correct at 28 psi it would develop more HP than I stated, but at that point the turbo is about max.

On the street at 28 psi the car will be insane and unreliable if continuously pushed at that level. My street car with a 66 mm turbo is hard to keep the 11" tires from breaking loose at 20 psi.

What good is all that power if the tires are not able to put the power to the road?

Even when building a track car, we do not want it to be at its ultimate performance level. Street performance must be reliable and consistent, to have fun and not break the "bank"!

It took years to dial in my race car to run high 9's with less than 20 psi which still gives me more than ample reserve of power if needed when in competition.

 

[marc daniels]

My comments, an exhaust biased cam would not be one I would use with your heads and a stroker build.

A 3200 LU Vigilante would also be my last choice on a converter, especially if you want quick spooling.

We have seen 550 RWHP with similar builds.

Good luck on your final results whatever you decide.

Would you recommend a (numerically) larger or smaller converter.

 

[marc daniels]

You are correct at 28 psi it would develop more HP than I stated, but at that point the turbo is about max.

On the street at 28 psi the car will be insane and unreliable if continuously pushed at that level. My street car with a 66 mm turbo is hard to keep the 11" tires from breaking loose at 20 psi.

What good is all that power if the tires are not able to put the power to the road?

Even when building a track car, we do not want it to be at its ultimate performance level. Street performance must be reliable and consistent, to have fun and not break the "bank"!

It took years to dial in my race car to run high 9's with less than 20 psi which still gives me more than ample reserve of power if needed when in competition.

 

[marc daniels]

Honestly I'm looking for heavy torque numbers more so than horsepower. 28lbs is more on the high side, i would probably rest around 20 on the street, however, I would like to have the option to turn up the boost at the track.

 

[marc daniels]

You are correct at 28 psi it would develop more HP than I stated, but at that point the turbo is about max.

On the street at 28 psi the car will be insane and unreliable if continuously pushed at that level. My street car with a 66 mm turbo is hard to keep the 11" tires from breaking loose at 20 psi.

What good is all that power if the tires are not able to put the power to the road?

Even when building a track car, we do not want it to be at its ultimate performance level. Street performance must be reliable and consistent, to have fun and not break the "bank"!

It took years to dial in my race car to run high 9's with less than 20 psi which still gives me more than ample reserve of power if needed when in competition.

You are correct at 28 psi it would develop more HP than I stated, but at that point the turbo is about max.

On the street at 28 psi the car will be insane and unreliable if continuously pushed at that level. My street car with a 66 mm turbo is hard to keep the 11" tires from breaking loose at 20 psi.

What good is all that power if the tires are not able to put the power to the road?

Even when building a track car, we do not want it to be at its ultimate performance level. Street performance must be reliable and consistent, to have fun and not break the "bank"!

It took years to dial in my race car to run high 9's with less than 20 psi which still gives me more than ample reserve of power if needed when in competition.

Makes sense

 

[marc daniels]

I want to keep the stock rear gear ratio. What would be a good cam/converter combo that would maximize my stroker/head selection. Ideally I would like to run a 71mm, but that isn't in the budget as of right now. Financially things have changed since I started purchasing parts for this build...unfortunately..

 

[marc daniels]

I want to keep the stock rear gear ratio. What would be a good cam/converter combo that would maximize my stroker/head selection, while retaining streetability. Ideally I would like to run a 71mm, but that isn't in the budget as of right now. Financially things have changed since I started purchasing parts for this build...unfortunately..

 

[Nick Micale]

Would you recommend a (numerically) larger or smaller converter.

My all-time favorite turbo is a TE-45A [66 mm] with a Garrett exhaust housing and a Hughes 10" non-LU 3600 stall converter, just within the past year I have done 6 street turbo cars [2 within the past month] like this which are mid to low 10 sec. cars.

This combination in a street car with the proper suspension and tires will kill most late model $50K+ muscle cars in the stoplight wars. I just love the big-ass smile from the owners when on the first road test of their "new" ride!

If you want awesome low end street performance, the "smartest" money you can spend at this performance level is with alum heads, this will get you awesome low end response and torque! This is not my opinion, but results from a few cars lately that I upgraded from max ported iron heads.

 

[marc daniels]

My all-time favorite turbo is a TE-45A [66 mm] with a Garrett exhaust housing and a Hughes 10" non-LU 3600 stall converter, just within the past year I have done 6 street turbo cars [2 within the past month] like this which are mid to low 10 sec. cars.

This combination in a street car with the proper suspension and tires will kill most late model $50K+ muscle cars in the stoplight wars. I just love the big-ass smile from the owners when on the first road test of their "new" ride!

If you want awesome low end street performance, the "smartest" money you can spend at this performance level is with alum heads, this will get you awesome low end response and torque! This is not my opinion, but results from a few cars lately that I upgraded from max ported iron heads.

Sounds good. My original motor had a t34 and spool was perfect. I could drive normal, even accelerate with part throttle without boost and pass most traffic. I added a few bold-ons and things changed. FMIC, alky, 60lbs inj 206/206 flat tappet. Now this thing would spool into boost too soon. It would surge at part throttle. Needless to say it was like driving full throttle or idle was my option. I want to avoid that with this next combination.Nor do I want to drive a city block to build boost. Sigh... Sooo many factors

 

[marc daniels]

My all-time favorite turbo is a TE-45A [66 mm] with a Garrett exhaust housing and a Hughes 10" non-LU 3600 stall converter, just within the past year I have done 6 street turbo cars [2 within the past month] like this which are mid to low 10 sec. cars.

This combination in a street car with the proper suspension and tires will kill most late model $50K+ muscle cars in the stoplight wars. I just love the big-ass smile from the owners when on the first road test of their "new" ride!

If you want awesome low end street performance, the "smartest" money you can spend at this performance level is with alum heads, this will get you awesome low end response and torque! This is not my opinion, but results from a few cars lately that I upgraded from max ported iron heads.

We're any of these stroker motors. I've had a few people tell me that I need more cam with a stroker. Head, shortblock, and rear was easy. Now the difficult part is cam, stall, and turbo selection. Especially since my knowledge is in naturally aspirated Chevy motors.... Huge difference!!

 

[vboosted6]

If you can reach out to Bison,I believe he can steer you in the right direction.He just dyno tuned a customer car with almost your combo but used a 71hpq it made 691hp low boost.Nick is right lose that converter.Call Dusty Bradford from PTC,17 or 18 blade 9.5 nl converter will probably do the job.