CCW 17x10 on all 4 corners

[mario65]

Thanks Matt thats some great info.

You just bought the afx spindles and you said the C6 calipers bolt on fine with 13.5 rotors? That sounds too easy.

I ran 13" rotors on a 17" ZR1 rim on a Typhoon that was the wilwood LS1 setup and it was cutting it close. 13.5" has to be right on the edge.

The front and rear springs are now hotchkis so its lower than that pic. I have a 3.5" pinion snubber that I hit on big bumps and dips. Otherwise it rides along fine with no bottoming. I have zero rub and I did roll the rears and removed 3 trim screws on the top and held down the trim with the two lower screws and double sided tape and it looks and works perfect.

The front was about an hour with a 4" grinder on the a frame and brake line brackets. I rub on the inner fender at full turn.

Nitto 555r 315 DR's are alot narrower than the new Nittos. They look good still on a 10" rim and with 4.75 backspace I dont EVER rub on the frame. I have 2 more sets of these DR's so I actually tried them not expecting them to work and they did. The 315 DR's are about 1/4" wider on each side than 275/40/17.

 

[Red Regal T]

I saw your car at Kissimee. Very nice. I liked the shade of silver you chose. It seemed a very light silver and very striking. I saw you were having some problem with a distortion on the paint where side mouldings had once been. Did you have mouldings on there since you had it painted, or is that some kind of bleed through from the old paint to new?

 

[gearheadmatt]

Thanks Matt thats some great info.

You just bought the afx spindles and you said the C6 calipers bolt on fine with 13.5 rotors? That sounds too easy.

I ran 13" rotors on a 17" ZR1 rim on a Typhoon that was the wilwood LS1 setup and it was cutting it close. 13.5" has to be right on the edge.

Sorry, I am running an 18" rim. Only the Z51 package ran 13.5" rotors (same caliper, different bracket). Didn't mean too, bought the calipers on ebay and figured out what they were before I got the wheels. Lucky break.

The front was about an hour with a 4" grinder on the a frame and brake line brackets. I rub on the inner fender at full turn.

What/where did you trim up front? Just the lower A arm and line bracket? No trimming/rolling the fender lip?

Nitto 555r 315 DR's are alot narrower than the new Nittos. They look good still on a 10" rim and with 4.75 backspace I dont EVER rub on the frame. I have 2 more sets of these DR's so I actually tried them not expecting them to work and they did. The 315 DR's are about 1/4" wider on each side than 275/40/17.

Nice.

 

[gearheadmatt]

meh...need to figure out multiquote...

 

[jdpolzin]

Thanks Matt thats some great info.

You just bought the afx spindles and you said the C6 calipers bolt on fine with 13.5 rotors? That sounds too easy.

I ran 13" rotors on a 17" ZR1 rim on a Typhoon that was the wilwood LS1 setup and it was cutting it close. 13.5" has to be right on the edge.

The front and rear springs are now hotchkis so its lower than that pic. I have a 3.5" pinion snubber that I hit on big bumps and dips. Otherwise it rides along fine with no bottoming. I have zero rub and I did roll the rears and removed 3 trim screws on the top and held down the trim with the two lower screws and double sided tape and it looks and works perfect.

The front was about an hour with a 4" grinder on the a frame and brake line brackets. I rub on the inner fender at full turn.

Nitto 555r 315 DR's are alot narrower than the new Nittos. They look good still on a 10" rim and with 4.75 backspace I dont EVER rub on the frame. I have 2 more sets of these DR's so I actually tried them not expecting them to work and they did. The 315 DR's are about 1/4" wider on each side than 275/40/17.

The ATS spindles have the C5/C6 hubs machined into them which allows us to bolt on the 13" brakes! Cant get much easier! As was stated above, the spindle also re-designs our front end geometery and makes one heck of a difference in handling capabilites. These along with the double adjustable upper control arms make alignments superduper simple with no need for shims. It's a very nice and top quality package.

 

[mario65]

Cool I guess this is it?

American Touring Specialties Shopping Cart

Flynbye wants 500 or so for their kit and its still a gbody spindle able to accept an ls1 kit.

 

[mario65]

The ATS spindles have the C5/C6 hubs machined into them which allows us to bolt on the 13" brakes! Cant get much easier! As was stated above, the spindle also re-designs our front end geometery and makes one heck of a difference in handling capabilites. These along with the double adjustable upper control arms make alignments superduper simple with no need for shims. It's a very nice and top quality package.

JD does the spindle fit ok with stock a arms or do you need to go with an f body/afx a-arm?

 

[gearheadmatt]

thats the place. like I said, its not the cheapest thing out there but if I were to judge by your car, you want to do it right. A kit using the g body spindle wont buy you nearly as much in terms of handling, brake options and improved steering geometry.
SCandC has them too (I think they work together with ATS). Give Marcus a call, really helpful guy and very knowledgable about our cars.
There are 2 different upper arms for the kit, one with high durometer bushings and one with race style bushings. I believe the race style are recommended for turbo cars b/c the turbo sits right above the right arm and gets a bit toasty.

SC&C Street-Comp AFX GM G-body `78-`88 adjustable arms w/greaseable racing bushings | Savitske Classic & Custom

 

[scot w.]

scot what size tires are you running front and rear?

front: 255-35/18
rear: 285-40/18


sw.

 

[jdpolzin]

JD does the spindle fit ok with stock a arms or do you need to go with an f body/afx a-arm?

Llike Matt pointed out, your going to want to get the adjustable uppers to make the set up work at it's top performance. You can make the stock uppers work, but it's not recommended becuase these spindles change the entire front end geometery and give a much better camber curve. THe stock lowers work great with these spindles. I ended up boxing my stock lowers becasue my car has a little more stress applied to it than most but it's completely unnecessary to do so.

 

[gearheadmatt]

JD does the spindle fit ok with stock a arms or do you need to go with an f body/afx a-arm?

Don't know anything about the f body arm but you can't use the stock g body. You could probably get creative but with the recommended alignment spec's, the AFX arm is the easiest to use.

 

[mario65]

Someone has a set that fill fit great on a buick same design and look of my old polished CCW's on ebay. Not selling dont know anything other than I saw them

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CCW-Classic...te-/221152783980?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123

 

[toomanymodz]

Here is a pic of Mario's car that I took in Feb 2011. It was one of my favorites at the show.

 

[mario65]

Here is a pic of Mario's car that I took in Feb 2011. It was one of my favorites at the show.
View attachment 174964

Thanks for posting that. It really was a nice fit with the chrome pack. I stole my wheels for 1000.00. I think 1250 to 1500 would be a good price. 2250 or so and you can get a new custom set from CCW.

 

[hawkfan]

Thanks for posting that. It really was a nice fit with the chrome pack. I stole my wheels for 1000.00. I think 1250 to 1500 would be a good price. 2250 or so and you can get a new custom set from CCW.

So you had to roll the fenders AND add spacers to stop the rubbing? I have a limited T and like the look of the polished CCWs with the chrome already on your car. Do you think 17x9/18x9s on the front would have worked without rubbing? Maybe an 18x9 in front with an 18x1o in back?

 

[mario65]

I had
Hotchkis sway bars front and rear
Hotchkis springs front and rear with a snubber ob the back
Bilstein shocks

I think there wasnt a better fit and look than the 17x10 with 315/35/17 Nittos on the back. The height and the meaty mean look was as good as I think possible on a stock T. The fronts were slightly too much. THey were tucked as much as possible but were too flush with the fender. They didnt rub but weren't perfect. I still if I was to do it again would would fight to put as much under the front as possible. I think the 8" arent enough. I think the 10"s were too much. A 9 with a 265 or 275/40/17 would work well and look sick. It all has to flow with ride height so dont think you can get away without lowering it. You will need to or it will look stupid. Yes I had to roll. It wasnt noticeable but was necessary for a no fear ride. DONT roll after unless you want some cut up tires.

more pics are here
http://www.turboregal.transams.net