CCW 17x10 on all 4 corners

Scott were you running Hotchkis springs front and back here?

What comment would you make on hotchkis vs DSE and Eibach, height, possible rubbing and firmness?

Can you PM a price on the DSE's?

thanks
 
Scott were you running Hotchkis springs front and back here?

What comment would you make on hotchkis vs DSE and Eibach, height, possible rubbing and firmness?

Can you PM a price on the DSE's?

thanks
You may have already seen this and may not, but there is some good information in here: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/br...els/329141-complete-dse-suspension-build.html

On my old set up it was all stock up front and Hotchkis lowering springs in the back.

Comment on the following company's? Well all three sell good products and DSE & Hotchkis have proven there set up's on the autocross & road courses by several recent customers that I personal know (myself included).

Height? Hotchkis lowered the car 1" while DSE's 2" drop spring lowered it another 1".. Never tested Eibach...

Possible rubbing? All depends on your Wheel & Tire combo, Not the suspension.. If you plan on lowering the car, I would suggest doing the suspension first then get your Wheels & Tires after. Most people do the opposite, me included...lesson learned but 3-piece wheels sure helped that situation!

Firmness? This can be a lengthy explanation so I will try to keep it simple...The firmness of the ride is a combination of Springs & Shocks but more from the springs. For Optimal performance find a company who makes Both Shocks & Springs and they will be valved for each other and give the best ride and offer the best performance. This can get more lengthy going into coil over shocks but that isn't what your looking at so we won't get into that...


The nice thing about DSE is they have a complete set up for our cars front to back and by complete I mean everything from sway bars, "Valve matched shocks" for their springs to Upper & Lower A-arms & Control arms! DSE's G-Body suspension geometry is improved by increasing camber gain and improving roll camber. Another nice thing is their system can be bought piece by piece if your on a budget and when your done you have a complete suspension system that was designed to work together.

It's all in what your plans are with the car and how it will be used. With the DSE system I feel comfortable taking my car from the street right onto any Autocross and pounding on it and feel safe knowing the parts have all been tested and they will hold up flawlessly. I prefer a car that performs well at everything and still offers a nice smooth ride and not the "Bread wagon" ride like some cars I've been in..

PM sent!


Scot W.
 
Scot any idea how the DSE setup will be at the drag strip? I was seriously considering the level 3 ride tech setup but now would like to see the DSE coil over setup before I make any decisions. Iam looking for the most all around setup.
 
Scot any idea how the DSE setup will be at the drag strip? I was seriously considering the level 3 ride tech setup but now would like to see the DSE coil over setup before I make any decisions. Iam looking for the most all around setup.
The owner Kyle told me they have a bunch of guy's using their set up on Camaro's for drag racing and said they love it, I personally have used their Non-coil over set up at our crappy local track and it hooked like it did before the swap over but am looking forward to the TB.com event to see if I cut the same 1.84 60' times like it did last year in stock form.

When the new G-Body coil over set up comes out I will let you know and get you some pic's right away.


Scot W.
 
Lowering options:

Now that you know what I am running. What's best in your opinion. Belltech 2" drop spindles or just go to Hotchkis one inch drop? I want UMI upper and lower A frame also. WOuld I run the drop spindles and the hotchkis with some spacers to not go below 2"?

thanks
 
Ended up with nitto 555r DR 315/35/17 on the back and nitto 555r 275/40/17 front

IMAG0064.jpg
 
Looks awesome. You really need to clean that filthy garage floor, though. ;)

thanks guys. I had just cleaned it. Not that it gets dirty. If your intested its 2 part epoxy with urethane coat from garagecoatings.com Its about a 1.00 a foot and will never peal. I cant scratch it. I dont like the company but their stuff is great.
 
You really need to make sure the wheel doesnt scrape on the inside at full turn on either the brake line bracket or a-frame. It would have been ugly at 5" backspace. 4.75 is cutting it close.

I have UMI upper and lower a frames rear control arms, eibachs or hotchkis springs(dont know which one I will use) on the way. I still need swaybars and brakes.
 
Your next step should be brakes. Most aftermarket brakes will push the wheel outward 1/8-3/8". Then decide which route you want to go with your springs.
 
Your next step should be brakes. Most aftermarket brakes will push the wheel outward 1/8-3/8". Then decide which route you want to go with your springs.

I got hotchkis springs and bars I need to install.

I think I am going to do the LS1 front and rears. I have always loved wilwoods but I cant seem to see a kit with big enough rotors.
 
I got hotchkis springs and bars I need to install.

I think I am going to do the LS1 front and rears. I have always loved wilwoods but I cant seem to see a kit with big enough rotors.

I just got some 17x10 epsilon 3 piece mesh's ready to install soon; I purchased the blazer brake upgrade but that was before when I had 16x9.5" rikens. With 17" wheels I'm wondering now what the BIGGEST brake upgrade I can fit in there (from a GM swap of course).

Any ideas on this?
Darkcyde
 
rear tires

Ended up with nitto 555r DR 315/35/17 on the back and nitto 555r 275/40/17 front

IMAG0064.jpg

you got 315's in there without a frame notch? I've got 285's with fenders trimmed and I think there'd be alot of rubbin and cuttin goin on in the twisties. i'm a bit lower tho too..

damn good lookin car tho. sweet singly bikes up high too
 

Looks good! John @ CCW does know what he's talking about when it comes to these cars...

I have 18 x 9.5" up front and 18 x 10" out back with 4.74" BS (no frame notch) and I have no rubbing issues! ;)


Scot W.

Scot what size tires are you running front and rear?
 
Everywhere.

In the front I've cut out the inner fenders and rolled them, and welded on new steering limiters to the lower control arms to keep the tires off the frame and swaybar. Granted I run the B-body spindles so it changes things a bit compared to stock.

Out back the trim and wheel lips were gone when I bought the car. What was left was rolled tightly back into itself and stretched as much as possible using a fender roller. The frame is factory stock. I think the kids call it "hellaflush", we call it "hellarubber". LOL.



Hell, even with just 10s and 285s Scot had to rework his car with a fender roller to keep it from rubbing: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/2437539-post72.html

Fitting 11s (or 11.5, still not sure) and 315s isn't exactly the same challenge. To make an omelet you are going to have to break some eggs... I just happened to use a sledge hammer to do it.


Not to hijack but you wanna loan that roller?
 
Lowering options:

Now that you know what I am running. What's best in your opinion. Belltech 2" drop spindles or just go to Hotchkis one inch drop? I want UMI upper and lower A frame also. WOuld I run the drop spindles and the hotchkis with some spacers to not go below 2"?

thanks


Stay away from belltech. Doesn't help the steering geometry. IMO the best option, tho pricey but looks like you can swing it, is the AFX tall spindle conversion. Based on the forged aluminum C5/6 vette spindle and uses its bearing packs and brake mount. Alters geometry and REALLY makes a difference. Also includes billet steering arms designed for our cars to correct bumpsteer issues.

I've got them with adjustable upper arms (no more alignment spacers) and using C6 Z51 calipers w/DBA4000 13.5" rotors. ANY brake setup for a C5 vette will work.
They drop the car about 3/4" just from the spindle swap (so I'm told, did springs too at the time).
I'm still getting it dialed and only autoX'd it a couple of times but it ain't slow. Has mad potential, especially with some better rubber. Only 245's in front w/555r's :(
 

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