Catch can vs....

PS.... I'm not saying don't use a catch can, just bringing to light the reasons why they look the way they do.
 
My T was doing the same thing and my compression/leakdown is good. I built a check valve that is just above the pcv valve to stop boost from entering and used a restricter inside the pcv hose to limit the vac. Seems to help a lot. Next time the intake is off I will be adding a baffle.
 
I guess to me it doesn't make a lot of sense the way they have that can designed. Basically, why does it have a breather on it? The breathers should be on the engine where they can ventilate the crankcase at WOT, and the PCV system should be closed. With a breather on the catch can, and the can installed inline in the PCV circuit, then the PCV will pull fresh outside air through that breather and not pull the crankcase vapors.

If they intend to vent the crankcase entirely through the breather on that can, then the fittings are way too small. The engine will build crankcase pressure at WOT due to excessive crankcase ventilation restriction. This will make the gaskets leak and push the dipstick out.

If the engine has some breathers on it, and the can is closed up tight, then it would make sense to me.
 
How is this system plumbed, that it's getting that much oil?
Is the engine "looser than a hookers Panties"??:D

1- Stock location Ac Delco pcv valve 2- to bottom of catch can
3- top of catch can to dog house --- I have a check valve on this line to prevent boost from pressurizing the catch can.
 
I guess to me it doesn't make a lot of sense the way they have that can designed. Basically, why does it have a breather on it? The breathers should be on the engine where they can ventilate the crankcase at WOT, and the PCV system should be closed. With a breather on the catch can, and the can installed inline in the PCV circuit, then the PCV will pull fresh outside air through that breather and not pull the crankcase vapors.

If they intend to vent the crankcase entirely through the breather on that can, then the fittings are way too small. The engine will build crankcase pressure at WOT due to excessive crankcase ventilation restriction. This will make the gaskets leak and push the dipstick out.

If the engine has some breathers on it, and the can is closed up tight, then it would make sense to me.

It appears as tho the breather has a one way valve in it....
3. Black "PCV" Can

- Unlike any of the competition; the full closed loop operation by using the ''boost proof'' all metal fully metering PCV valve allows this can to integrate into an OEM system without freaking it out or being illegal. The PCV valve line hooks to intake manifold vacuum to maximize engine oil life, crankcase vacuum, and EMISSIONS! Uses same dual pass cleaning as the others along with the ONE WAY BREATHER to completely eliminate crankcase pressure. Guaranteed to keep your intake clean.
 
If you get one I would use it with some breathers still installed on the engine to handle the WOT blow by. Just because the hose and barbs are too small to prevent crankcase pressure from building at WOT
 
If you get one I would use it with some breathers still installed on the engine to handle the WOT blow by. Just because the hose and barbs are too small to prevent crankcase pressure from building at WOT

I may get 1 of their PCV valves, and build my own. I have the tools to do that, and some 3" alum tube, too!:D
 
Here's another choice .
I've got 2 of these catch cans on my car.
One for the PCV system, routed back into the plenum (with a check valve in line) , the other venting both valve covers, then routed back into the MAF pipe (pre turbo).

Works well.

AMW Catch Cans.jpg

http://www.accmachtech.com/catchcans.asp
 
Here's another choice .
I've got 2 of these catch cans on my car.
One for the PCV system, routed back into the plenum (with a check valve in line) , the other venting both valve covers, then routed back into the MAF pipe (pre turbo).

Works well.

View attachment 255058

http://www.accmachtech.com/catchcans.asp
Mine is plumbed the same way. I always get a lot of oil in the can going to the PCV can and hardly anything going to the valve breather can. Must be the velocity explained in post #20 by BEATAV8.
 
Nice looking piece!
Are you using a stock pcv?
What are you using for the check valve?


Hi Chuck

I'm using the plastic AutoZone 1162 PCV Valve, think it's labeled "LuberFiner"
Just be sure to check it to make sure if holds pressure in one direction and doesn't leak. Blow through it and be certain it's a positive seal before you leave the store. (I've found a few of them did not).

Here's a picture.

For the check valve, go with US Plastics 3/8" Kynar check valve.
Part # 64175
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=64175
 

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Hi Chuck

I'm using the plastic AutoZone 1162 PCV Valve, think it's labeled "LuberFiner"
Just be sure to check it to make sure if holds pressure in one direction and doesn't leak. Blow through it and be certain it's a positive seal before you leave the store. (I've found a few of them did not).

Here's a picture.

For the check valve, go with US Plastics 3/8" Kynar check valve.
Part # 64175
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=64175


THANKS!:cool:
 
Well, my initial "assessment" Appears to be wrong. Whoda thunk it??:smuggrin:
I'm pulling the engine, and have just taken the plenum off.
Intake and plenum have the usual soot, [light], and no oil. Neither does the intake, or head runners.
W/ the amt of oil dripped onto the i/c corner, & in the up pipe, it now appears that the culprit is a toasted turbo seal.:(
The TE34 is too small for 60# injs, anyway!:smug:
Would a TE44 be a good choice w/ stock engine, stock converter, ATR headers/exh, TT street chip, CAI??
 
Thanks, thats exactly what i was looking at but just wanted to confirm. I saw the moroso 1 from gn1 performance and didn't like it. ill order the MM today. Thanks again!
 
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