car is slower with new trans and convertor why?
- Thread starter turbo tom
- Start date
Forget the advertised stall rating on the converter, we need to know what pump# the converter is?!?! Oh, and the converter isn't the problem... 
Just make sure you're locking it at w.o.t., otherwise it might not be the most efficient operating on the big end of the track.
Most importantly, and I'm surprised no one has already asked... What are you using for datalogging? You mention you've made other changes to the car as well, so now there are multiple variables involved.
K.
Just make sure you're locking it at w.o.t., otherwise it might not be the most efficient operating on the big end of the track.Most importantly, and I'm surprised no one has already asked... What are you using for datalogging? You mention you've made other changes to the car as well, so now there are multiple variables involved.
K.
So when you (or anyone else for that matter) make a w.o.t. pull with your car, and you run the rpm up to 5200, how much does the rpm drop at each shift point? I'm thinking it's probably closer to 3200 rpm instead of 1800 rpm. Putting the effective powerband (rpm range) where?!?! Hhhhmmm
K.
forcefed3.8's
Buckeye Bullet
- Joined
- May 26, 2002
I can't see a Vigilante being inefficient at that power level. I had under 10% slip running 10.8's@125. The car would pick up 29mph in the last 1/8 uunlocked. We have used 0 pump Vigilante's in 12sec to 9 sec cars, with no complaints, they work great. It is the converter I recommend to anyone wanting to keep lock up and run down into the 10's.
We need alot more info, old times/mph vs. new times/mph, boost, timing, O2's,etc. Just because you open the hood and dump in a bucket of $, doesn't mean it will instantly go faster.
We need alot more info, old times/mph vs. new times/mph, boost, timing, O2's,etc. Just because you open the hood and dump in a bucket of $, doesn't mean it will instantly go faster.
Thats not the converter or trans
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
If the converter was a true 3400 stall, it would give you a much better 60' time than a 2.0?
These Vigilante converters have been a big problem for the cars I have personally tried to work with using them over the years. I do not believe your converter stall is accurate.
On the last GN when I removed the Vigilante, it went from a 13 sec. car to a low 12 with much better 60' times - nothing else was changed.
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I recently bought a new rebuilt 2004r trans from Extreme Automatics and had it installed. The trans is a stage 2 and I have a lightly modified 1987 Turbo Buick Grand National. The tcc switch was replaced after the install and it seems to be bad again. What could be causing it to go bad? It down shift and jerks as im slowing down just like im driving a manual shift.Thank for any help.
turbo tom
248-390-3345
turbomillwright@sbcglobal.net
I recently bought a new rebuilt 2004r trans from Extreme Automatics and had it installed. The trans is a stage 2 and I have a lightly modified 1987 Turbo Buick Grand National. The tcc switch was replaced after the install and it seems to be bad again. What could be causing it to go bad? It down shift and jerks as im slowing down just like im driving a manual shift.Thank for any help.
turbo tom
248-390-3345
turbomillwright@sbcglobal.net
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
Did u do the pump mod to the trans for the vig convertor? Makew sure that is done before forcing l/u with that multi disk
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
The chip change back to stock due to the KR you spoke of.... that could be it right there.
If you are running a chip with less timing and lees boost or same boost and less timing then yeah its gonna slow down.
Im not real sure whats all you have done.
Thread sayd car slowed............you think its trans and conv. Then you mention the stock chip going back in.
With the car running "slower" what chip do you have?
What psi boost?
If you are running a chip with less timing and lees boost or same boost and less timing then yeah its gonna slow down.
Im not real sure whats all you have done.
Thread sayd car slowed............you think its trans and conv. Then you mention the stock chip going back in.
With the car running "slower" what chip do you have?
What psi boost?
How do you know it's false? It could be real or something mechanical causing the knock. The issue causing the knock could be why the performance of the car fell off some. Regardless... Most street chips pull the timing back to account for the knock, which would slow the car as well.
If you plan on owning one of these cars for an extended period of time you should invest in a datalogging program...
K.