hello, I have a 87 gn that has been running rough. I decided to check the cam sensor after reading some posts on here. is the ring on top of sensor with the cut out section meant to be moved by hand? turned mine about 1/4 inch counter clockwise and returned it to position it was in. from what I read I am thinking this is not meant to move without the whole shaft moving? now car wont start, guess time to get new sensor and cam tool lol. also, the chip my car came with was extender, burned for a 200-208 cam. if I have to replace cam sensor, would this bet set the same way as a stock cam? any guidance appreciated. thanks
cam sensor question
- Thread starter JC AUTO
- Start date
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Sorry Brian, we have found just the opposite when the cam is upgraded. This was debated extensively in the 90's on the gn/t-type forum!
Phoneguy
Cometic HG stress tester
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2002
So, you plan on sharing ?
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2009
X2 ... If your cam sensor is the original it probably needs a rebuild . Mine was very sloppy with the spring washer half worn off , it came back from a GNS rebuild like new , clean & tight with no slop , well worth the $80 . Sam
just got back in town. thanks for the help. will get the repair kit and cam tool. car has 70000 miles, so hope I don't need the sensor rebuild. mr micale might be contacting you to get your thoughts how this should be set once I get my stuff to set the timing. I have a chart that shows airflow after heads and manifold were ported. it has spec for what the valve springs were ground to. not sure if this would shed any light on what type of cam it is. possibly ati, the car had some ati chips , 7th injector set up at vacuum block and ati sticker on turbo heat shield. thought about contacting the owner who had most of the work done, but he is deceased. he lived bolwing green ky. think that is where the mods were done.
Phoneguy
Cometic HG stress tester
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2002
What does this have to do with initially installing the cam sensor ? Yes you can move the window to take advantage of fueling but it still doesnt change the initial install correct?
Am I missing something? Not being argumentative at all , I am asking a question. Nick didnt come back to answer me.
Bryan
Right. Our fuel injection isn't constant flow, it's pulsed. You want the pule to coincide with with the intake valve opening event.
If you install a big ass cam (even worse if it's ground or installed advanced), the valve will open before the fuel gets on the clock.
That's the science behind the 'mysterious' solution of rotating the cam sensor an extra 1/8" or so to kill a dead spot if you have a big cam.
If you install a big ass cam (even worse if it's ground or installed advanced), the valve will open before the fuel gets on the clock.
That's the science behind the 'mysterious' solution of rotating the cam sensor an extra 1/8" or so to kill a dead spot if you have a big cam.
Last edited:
Phoneguy
Cometic HG stress tester
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2002
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Sorry I did not get back to you Brian as I have been very busy, but Earl has the answer!
Fwiw the fuel injection timing doesn't mean crap as far as power is concerned. I tried various settings on the Dyno with no change. Proper injection timing may help particularly when the car is cranking and at low speed but doesn't mean a damn when the engine rpm is at flash rpm under full load. There's no time for it to matter. Especially if an entire injector entire pulse width takes 500-600* of crankshaft rotation to complete.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Similar threads
