cam selection help

wmerrell

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Building a new engine. Going with a Weber built stroker with an all forged rotating assembly. Have a set of Champion ported iron heads with T & D 1.55 rockers. Using my old 6262 turbo with a PTC NL converter.
What roller cam would be a good fit for this build?
 
Building a new engine. Going with a Weber built stroker with an all forged rotating assembly. Have a set of Champion ported iron heads with T & D 1.55 rockers. Using my old 6262 turbo with a PTC NL converter.
What roller cam would be a good fit for this build?
I have the same exact combo except for the converter. %100 street car and use a 210/215 from Fullthrottle. It is brutal when in boost, but it drives around town like a stocker.
 
a 210/215 in a stroker is like a 206 in a stock stroke motor. If it is mostly a street car it will be great, like them man says brutal, if you want a little more top end a 215/220 is very nice in a stroker
 
This is mainly a street car with a monthly trip to the local drag strip. No cage in the car, sounds like the 210/215 will fit my needs.
 
Weber did my stroker and they used a custom 218/212. Since they're doing the build, I would ask them why they use that over any other grind. The stroker w/6262 and the PTC/NL is a kick arse combo.
 
Weber did my stroker and they used a custom 218/212. Since they're doing the build, I would ask them why they use that over any other grind. The stroker w/6262 and the PTC/NL is a kick arse combo.

Weber suggested the 212/206 for my build as the stall speed of the NL PTC converter is 3000. At 3200 stall speed they recommend the 218/212.
 
You're right. I told them what turbo I planned on running (6265) and an estimate of what the stall speed was going to be (2800~3000). I also told them the truth on how fast I really wanted to go (10.00~10.50). The end result is the combo in the sig. Coming from an all stock setup to this combo on the current tune is phenomenal!! :cool:
 
You're right. I told them what turbo I planned on running (6265) and an estimate of what the stall speed was going to be (2800~3000). I also told them the truth on how fast I really wanted to go (10.00~10.50). The end result is the combo in the sig. Coming from an all stock setup to this combo on the current tune is phenomenal!! :cool:

My goal is to get into the ten's, a 10.9 is all I need. After that, dial back to run 11.5 when I go to the strip once a month. After I get bored with that, I will go for the mid 10 range.

Keep us posted as to your times. Would like to see you crack into the tens and then low tens.
 
I'd run a custom grind in the 205-210 duration range. With added lobe separation for higher vacuum across all cruising rpm. The idle quality
and fuel economy will be better and it will drive the converter a little further down low. You will sacrifice a little peak power but the trade off is
well worth it. You can have a car that spools like a stock one and makes 550whp without too much hassle.
 
I'd run a custom grind in the 205-210 duration range. With added lobe separation for higher vacuum across all cruising rpm. The idle quality
and fuel economy will be better and it will drive the converter a little further down low. You will sacrifice a little peak power but the trade off is
well worth it. You can have a car that spools like a stock one and makes 550whp without too much hassle.

Would anything change with your recommendation if using a stock stroke? 9:1 CR?
 
I'll take a stab, not trying to step on any toes:) ...I would think goals would dictate that answer. i.e. 9:1 Stock stroke looking for sub 10's would = different cam selection.
 
I'll take a stab, not trying to step on any toes:) ...I would think goals would dictate that answer. i.e. 9:1 Stock stroke looking for sub 10's would = different cam selection.

Got ya. I'm shooting for a 9:1 stock stroke, forged internal 109 with billet caps, no girdle. I figure this should be strong to 10.0 and I'd like to run 10.50s to 10.90s with it using a 6262 or similar street friendly turbo. I'm trying to keep my rpm's down too similar to stock ie 5k shifts. Home ported irons and I'm thinking flat tappet cam as I like the quietness and won't need a lot of valve spring shifting at 5k rpm either, so zddp should make it live just fine as I'm doing now with a ft cam; maybe even stock rockers. Possible? Should I start a new thread? Sorry...
 
Got ya. I'm shooting for a 9:1 stock stroke, forged internal 109 with billet caps, no girdle. I figure this should be strong to 10.0 and I'd like to run 10.50s to 10.90s with it using a 6262 or similar street friendly turbo. I'm trying to keep my rpm's down too similar to stock ie 5k shifts. Home ported irons and I'm thinking flat tappet cam as I like the quietness and won't need a lot of valve spring shifting at 5k rpm either, so zddp should make it live just fine as I'm doing now with a ft cam; maybe even stock rockers. Possible? Should I start a new thread? Sorry...
Keeping the rpm low like you want to will require a low duration at .050 like 206* and probably a 108 or 110 LS, and tall gearing which will be very detonation prone. If you add LS it will make less peak power. Making enough power to run 10.50 with this configuration would require a hell of a lot of octane. A more realistic goal with those limitation on rpm would be 10.80. Even going to 5300 would require 29" tires to run in the low 120mph range with little converter slip out the back. That old 7.5:1 engine i had ran 127+@3600 and i used a low lift 212@.050 roller with crappy heads. It took about 30psi to get the mph and it was around 5450-5500 crossing the line with a 29" tire that likely grew beyond that. If you want it quiet order a low lift roller that isnt more than .290 lobe lift and slow ramp. Id still be running at least 120lbs on the seat and 280-300 open looking to run the boost required to get to that mph if you stayed with a close to stock cam.
 
Weber suggested the 212/206 for my build as the stall speed of the NL PTC converter is 3000. At 3200 stall speed they recommend the 218/212.
The converter stall speed doesnt determine the cam. You select a cam based on your goals and use parts that will support it. A 206/206 112LS or possibly even 114LS will make converter stall higher at lower rpm than more duration with less LS. I wouldnt run a 218 intake lobe unless i was looking to go over 135mph. Its just not needed.
 
Hey Bision , I know what they used in my combo due to goals, but I don't understand the difference in the choice of a 212/212 vs the 218/212 they used in my combo. I guess what I'm asking is, what would the difference be if I were running a stroker with a 212/212 vs 218/212? Is it a difference that is noticeable in the power band , vaccum @cruise, idle quality...?
 
Hey Bision , I know what they used in my combo due to goals, but I don't understand the difference in the choice of a 212/212 vs the 218/212 they used in my combo. I guess what I'm asking is, what would the difference be if I were running a stroker with a 212/212 vs 218/212? Is it a difference that is noticeable in the power band , vaccum @cruise, idle quality...?
It would probably have a little different idle but not much. Less LS will have a choppier idle. The power band on a hard running 218 intake engine will be between 5200 and 6000 as long as the turbo isnt choking it. Peaking around 5500. Stroker or not the power band is about the same. You need to consider the stroker isnt even increasing displacement by 10%. It will have a slight effect on the ability to have more torque at lower rpm but once the turbo is spooled its basically limited to the turbo. Once the mass flow potential of the turbo is reached it wont make more power. The larger displacement will make everything work a little better but the turbo is still the determining factor. Having a cam that complements the turbo, heads, and CR will make things much easier. Getting the converter to couple in that zone is very important. Once the turbo is spooled and the engine is under full load the rpm doesnt need a huge window to operate it and the engine can move the car with no problem. 600 rpm is fine as long as thats where the power band is. If its flashing to the top of the power band and starts running on the down side out the back it will slow it down.
 
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