Cam recomendations

She can "use" your small cam, but secretly, she yearns for something... larger....

She also complains your ET isn't what it could be.. :D

btw, track performance is only half the equation. The proper way to measure the "performance" of one's combination is to put that turd on a dyno. I have a friend that was making in excess of 800HP for a *long* time. He'd go to the track and trap at 135+. He wouldn't however launch the car hard because he didn't (doesn't for that matter) have a cage.

He is now making over 1000hp... He runs a large cam... With no cage, he broke his last motor almost 2 years ago at 1000' and *coasted* to a 9.79. He drives the car on the street all the time, drives it to and from the track as well.

I'll call him and tell him what a dumba$$ he is now for not running a tiny cam.
 
Dynos are for imports and large cam buicks :D .
If you have a small cam you dont need to launch hard ,The Torque and boost hit to qwick .
Maybe we could get John Force's cam ,he makes 5000hp plus you know ,cut the end off of it ,stick it in our V-6 buick and make 3000 hp on the dyno .
 
Do you know what your peak cylinder pressure is? Do you know the net effect 1-2 degrees of timing/retard has on your cylinder pressure? You familiar with what your lobe sep is/should be for your combo?

If you answered *no* to any of those, the "track" will not be your psychic friend. You may run a 11, 10 or even 9, but I guarantee if you DID have that data (and a few other data points I didn't and won't mention here) you'd run a *hell* of a lot faster.


Speaking of John Force, do you have *any* idea what it takes to make a car that powerful? The instrumentation? The tuning? The *knowledge*? I do (know what is involved) and appreciate the fact that kind performance is out of my league. Do you see John Force taking his turd down the interstate (under it's own power) and throttling the local mid-life crisis victim in his new GTS-R? Nope...

You can't throw heaps of money at a car and expect it to be that fast. Money is only part of the problem: sound engineering principles and the willingness to patiently tune out a car and see things for YOURSELF are what will make you go faster than every other n00b running 11's and 10's. Why do I say n00b? Because these days 11's and 10's are *not* enough. Dynos are for people that actually know what the hell they want out of their car, and would like to see it verified. ET's don't verify much in the way of torque values or peak horsepower. Obversely, dynos dont' reveal how fast the car will move down the track either.

If you're satisfied running low 10's when you could go faster without straining your setup, more power to you. (no pun intended)
 
Pro,I have a ?.Do you think that a motor with a larger cam could easily run the same times with less boost than a car with the smaller cam?I want to go fast without pushing the boost to ungodly #s and I think the longer duration would allow packing the cylinder better with less boost and therefore a much cooler intake charge.I am having a TA motor built and want a cam that will take the car to the 9s easily.
 
Your from the Seattle area and have a fast Buick ?KEWL . Are you driving your car to BM and are you going to be running race gas? Just for someting to think about ive been 9.90 with a 208/208 Hyd cam stock block 1.36 60ft;) Looking forward to meeting you at
BM on saturday night:) I thought me Dennis and Al were the only 9 and 10 sec Buick V6 guys around here:confused: It will be nice to see another 9 sec Buick pull up at BM:) The RWHP you said your car makes you should be alot faster than me and Dennis:eek:
 
Well, I'm not *from* here, but I live here now. lol

Sixgun, there are several schools of thought on that subject. I've had better luck camming up, putting killer heads and valvetrain down, and running a larger turbo. This allows me to make the same hp I used to make with a previous combo at a lower amount of boost, and lower trap RPM. The problem is when you start turning up the wick, you have to be *really* careful on cylinder pressure to keep from blowing gaskets (or worse).

I'm not the Jedi master on this stuff though. I've been *around* the Jedi masters though, and when I stopped trying to do my own thing, listened to what they were saying, followed some advice and made some adjustments, the rest fell into line.

Contact me offline and we can have extended discussions on this topic.
 
At least someone, agrees with me, put the biggest cam you can fit in that stock block, I like my 224, and if the car hooked it would go 9's with stock block and heads, without 35 lbs of boost you require with a small cam! that no one mentions to achieve those numbers
 
Originally posted by geno
I thought me Dennis and Al were the only 9 and 10 sec Buick V6 guys around here:

I forgot to add Mike Price as part of the local 10 sec Buick guys:D
Stock block with around 40,000 miles and has only removed the valve covers to replace the springs:) 30# boost also Hehe;)
 
Will you take a polygraph test on that #30 psi?:eek:
 
What about me???

Geno, how could you forget that you helped me become a member of the 10 sec club....? ;)

PS..."only" 26# of boost....:cool:
 
Sorry Bill;)
Me bad
I will help you become a member of the 9 sec club when you get another car;)
Norbs
My boost gage only goes to 30;) and my map sensor was bouncing from 29# to pegged the whole run:D If my 70 turbo would have made more boost i would have turned it up;)
 
Originally posted by norbs
Will you take a polygraph test on that #30 psi?:eek:


I guess your taking the 5th on that question?
 
Originally posted by geno
Sorry Bill;)
Me bad
I will help you become a member of the 9 sec club when you get another car;)

Ohhh, I can hardly wait! Now that my house is sold, I am beginning my search for my next Buick! :D
 
Not to get off topic, but I'm curious how the car idles with the 224 cam. I have to pass smog around here and I'm sure a cam that has any lope will not pass smog. I think my 4.1L is a little undercammed but I refuse to go higher than a 3,000 stall on a daily driver. I have overcammed my old 3.8L with a 2,800 stall and it was no fun to drive.

The stageII car has a 236-236 solid roller. It lopes noticably, doesn't sound like a V6 at idle and doesn't "clean up" until 1,600rpm. This is with 276 cubes. I don't see how a 224 could idle smooth in a 3.8L. I also HATE the 4,000 stall convertor on the street. While it's super responsive, people think you're racing them when you're just trying to keep up with traffic. Not what I call a daily driver.
 
It idles not bad at all, vaccum is at 10 hg @900 rpm and i ahve passed any emssions tests no problem. The engine will rev to 7000 rpm with ease also. The problem with this cam is the centerline is wrong in my opinion, allowing for too much overlap abd poor vacuum signal. gas mileage is also poor at low speeds. However, now i am going larger cam and it should idle even smoother and make more power, if i ever get my other motor together
 
See, mine idles *rock* steady, and makes 18" of vacuum. Throttle response is instant, and the streetability is fine. I run 112* of lobe sep, installed on a 108 centerline. I do all of this on a solid flat-tappet cam. (Lifters and Cam from Crower)


I watch my trans temp, and it doesn't get "hot" as a result of having a higher stall converter in there.

This is on a 231 cid Buick V-6 as well, lest anyone think I'm running the stage setup. (although I will be soon)
 
I have no reason to BS anybody and all i have is my word witch i think is worth something around here:cool: Im a no BS guy norbs:) LOL
Pro
You have a nice car but i would guess that when i heard it idle last night it was around the 1200 rpm range. :
 
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