Cam position sensor timing

Kendall1214

Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2014
So I've got my engine in the car and I don't have the timing tool with the light. Think its call a Casper. Anyway I was wondering if I could get a breakdown of how to do it with a multimeter. And if I do it with multimeter will it be as accurate? I ask this because when I start it I have to go into break in. Or can it be fine tuned with scan master? Or is my best bet to just wait? My friend has ordered a timing tool but im hoping to get it done before Sat so I can have it in the car show here in town. I Maybe jumping the gun a bit but I'd rather know for sure if its a viable way.
 
While the Casper method and a multi meter works, Try this much easier, Remove num. one spark plug, bump the engine till you reach TDC Important that its on compression stroke, Now line up the TDC marks below, with the cam sensor cap off you will notice an index tang on the cap that locks into the same on the cam sensor housing, attached to the sensor shaft is a relucter disc held on with a screw in the center. next to it is a tang that indexes the relucter unto the shaft. Simply line the tang up with the index mark in the housing and install it. You want the relucter window facing towards the P/S pump when your done. Using this method will put you within a couple of degrees of perfect.
 
While the Casper method and a multi meter works, Try this much easier, Remove num. one spark plug, bump the engine till you reach TDC Important that its on compression stroke, Now line up the TDC marks below, with the cam sensor cap off you will notice an index tang on the cap that locks into the same on the cam sensor housing, attached to the sensor shaft is a relucter disc held on with a screw in the center. next to it is a tang that indexes the relucter unto the shaft. Simply line the tang up with the index mark in the housing and install it. You want the relucter window facing towards the P/S pump when your done. Using this method will put you within a couple of degrees of perfect.
 
Ive always wondered how they were set at the factory. Cause you know the balancers weren't marked for anything other than TDC and they had to have a quick and dirty method to pop them in from the tdc mark. Probably exactly what lou described
 
I never use setting tool. I use a method very similar to turbolou's.

Note: Setting the cam sensor to factory spec is not always optimal. In some cases the car will not even run when set to spec. Other cases may experience tip in stumble.

Moral of the story is that the cam sensor may need to be further turned to make the motor run and/or smooth out other issues.

Don't think because the manual says to lock it down at a certain point that it's right.

This comes from experience.
 
I too do it by the same alignment method. As for the factory, it appears that they do it via a test light and @25* ATDC. Click on thumbnail for full size image.
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RemoveBeforeFlight
 
I never use setting tool. I use a method very similar to turbolou's.

Note: Setting the cam sensor to factory spec is not always optimal. In some cases the car will not even run when set to spec. Other cases may experience tip in stumble.

Moral of the story is that the cam sensor may need to be further turned to make the motor run and/or smooth out other issues.

Don't think because the manual says to lock it down at a certain point that it's right.

This comes from experience.


Rick that is a correct statement, I have had high miles cars come in with part throttle issues and basically adjusted the cam sensor holding the throttle at 2500 rpm & moving the sensor ever so slightly one way or another till the engine sounded the smoothest. That I figured was due to a sloppy timing chain which would be a clue to its health & wisely replacing it before complete failure. I have also seen the can sensors installed 180 out the car still will run but not very well. I also remember quite vividly the first time I ran into & took me two days to figure a sheared relucter tang broke losing its index and of course car wouldn't start. You have to know after 28 years of nothing but lessons like this it is all about learning from your mistakes and others that gets one through the day in this business.
 
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This is why I built a timing light that triggers off of the cam sensor so I can see where the cam sensor timing is when the engine is running.
 
you own a car thats ~ 30 years old. you should start collecting spares of this kind of thing.

crank sensor, cam sensor, tps, ecm, coil, etc........

Bob
 
But when it stumbles will that hurt the break in or anything? That's one of my biggest worries
If the car starts & runs at all it wont hurt the break in. What will affect a break in is a no start or having to over crank an engine trying to start it.
 
Can anyone share a picture of their cam sensor with the cap off, after the engine has been set to 25 deg ATDC?
 
Here's a picture of one with the cap off (broken ears) and of a timing tool I made 30 years ago. I set it by the manual with a multimeter. I've never had a problem doing it that way and it takes all of 2 minutes. Doesn't mean it will work as well for others.
 

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Can anyone share a picture of their cam sensor with the cap off, after the engine has been set to 25 deg ATDC?

The position of the window when the engine is set 25* ATDC will vary depending on how the cam sensor was installed. Bottom line is....it doesn't make any difference where the widow is when the engine is at 25* ATDC as long as the base/sensor cap is rotated so the sensor triggers 25* ATDC.
 
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