Ok. I removed the volt booster. I went back to my previous race setup. re-installed the reds 103 chip. turned alky off. 116 octane fuel in the tank etc etc. r44ts. @ .032. 22-24 psi boost. I made three runs @ the local 1/8 mi. track. The car felt like its old self again. 7.70, 7.67, 7.64. each run was right around 98 mph. et's got a little better each run as the ambient temp went down. When I got home I drained the 116oct fuel. filled with 93. TT chip back in. alky gain @ 6. went for a quick ride. The car ran very good. pulled real hard through first and second up to about 90 mph. BLM @ idle 131. top end 3rd gear 120. The O2's .741v. I am going back to the track tomorrow night to do more testing. I feel like the problem may be fixed. maybe now i can start fine tuning with the chip parameters, although having never done the chip programming before makes me a little apprehensive.
calling julio/alky experts pls review my pl log
- Thread starter wb's87
- Start date
Good news that it was fine when you removed the new parts and the volt booster. IAT is still perplexing as it should not be much over ambient with a cold air kit. High temp will affect fueling, hot air gets less, and so your car is running lean as indicated by O2 readings which should be 775-800 or even higher sometimes. I'd get the IAT out from under the hood and drive around and see what temps you get. It should be near the outside air temperature.
If not, I'd make Advance give me another one. FWIW, I remove the hood seal when I race to get as much air moving through the engine as possible.
I'd like to see another PL run with the old parts and then another after you put back the new parts.
What version TT chip do you have?
The car is laying down on you in the back half of the track. With you best posted ET, you should be at 118+ instead of 115. Also you need to look at speed gain in the last half of the track on that run and it should be in the mid 20's and not high teens. I would attribute that to weak valve springs.
Tonight, you need to make sure FP is where Eric wants it and I'd recommend adding some fuel through the chip at WOT to bring the O2's up to 800 and start tuning from there.
If not, I'd make Advance give me another one. FWIW, I remove the hood seal when I race to get as much air moving through the engine as possible.
I'd like to see another PL run with the old parts and then another after you put back the new parts.
What version TT chip do you have?
The car is laying down on you in the back half of the track. With you best posted ET, you should be at 118+ instead of 115. Also you need to look at speed gain in the last half of the track on that run and it should be in the mid 20's and not high teens. I would attribute that to weak valve springs.
Tonight, you need to make sure FP is where Eric wants it and I'd recommend adding some fuel through the chip at WOT to bring the O2's up to 800 and start tuning from there.
Hi. Thanks again for sticking with me through this. Unfortunately I didn't get to log any of my runs at the track last night thanks to my wife leaving me with a dead laptop battery. I did get a log from late last night after I switched back to the new setup. I will post that one. I totally agree with everything you are saying. I couldn't go back to the track tonight I forgot about soccer tryouts. I ordered the parts to move the IAT and air filter out of the engine compartment I guess I really don't have a cold air kit. but I will soon. As for the hood seal, I removed that some time ago. I am going to put the furl pressure back to 43 line off, although Eric does state that it may have to be set +/- 3-4 psi. from 43. That could be why it is leaning out in high gear. The TT chip is a 5.6 alky chip. If you would let me know what parameter to add the fuel to. I am assuming that it is parameter 1 wot fuel - overall (all gears including 1st). I am also trying to fabricate some sort of scoop to go between the air dams. I see a lot of guys using the old garbage can trick. I can't/won't do that to my car. I'm trying to come up with something a little more tasteful. Thanks again TTYS!
Eric Stage I
TurboTweak Guy
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I would get a new O2 sensor. That one is really lazy. A lazy sensor will throw the BLM's off, and make it look lean when it's not.
When in closed loop cruising, the O2's should be jumping up and down. See the pic below. The top log is your car, the bottom log is how it should look when cruising (in closed loop).
You could very well be lean, however, it would be nice to see the O2's with a good sensor to be sure.
When in closed loop cruising, the O2's should be jumping up and down. See the pic below. The top log is your car, the bottom log is how it should look when cruising (in closed loop).
You could very well be lean, however, it would be nice to see the O2's with a good sensor to be sure.
Eric: Glad you jumped in here. I was just about to send him to the TT forum.
Back to the PO:
You can download instructions for your chip from the TT website forum. Yes, Parameter 1 is what you adjust for WOT fuel and 2 is for adjusriing spool fuel. Be sure and read the last sentence in the Parameter 2 instructions.
The instructions do a much better job of explaining what to do than I can so I am stopping here.
For clarification, you should get the IAT out of the engine compartment to test it. Once you are sure you have a good sensor, then you put it back in the MAf pipe. Your O2 readings look like a thrill ride at the fair.
I think that with these 2 items fixed, you'll be in pretty good shape engine management wise. New springs and you'll be ready to rock.
Back to the PO:
You can download instructions for your chip from the TT website forum. Yes, Parameter 1 is what you adjust for WOT fuel and 2 is for adjusriing spool fuel. Be sure and read the last sentence in the Parameter 2 instructions.
The instructions do a much better job of explaining what to do than I can so I am stopping here.
For clarification, you should get the IAT out of the engine compartment to test it. Once you are sure you have a good sensor, then you put it back in the MAf pipe. Your O2 readings look like a thrill ride at the fair.
I think that with these 2 items fixed, you'll be in pretty good shape engine management wise. New springs and you'll be ready to rock.First thing the Iat reads ambient with engine cold, key on. I now have a real cold air kit and it works great IAT is close to ambient while driving. I re-set fuel pressure to 43 line off. Denso O2 sensor installed. the readings now look like the example that Eric posted. Thanks To Eric for jumping in and pointing that out. The car feels better for sure. but it is still not quite right. It still feels like it goes flat just prior to the shift points. maybe the new valve springs will help this, but I am more inclined to believe that it is a fueling /timing issue that hopefully I can tune out with the chip. I am posting my latest log. please let me know if there are any other issues that anyone notices. The BLM's still seem a little low to me at higher RPM? I want to say my sincere thanks again. Without the help from all of you on this forum I would be really shooting in the dark! Bill
Also check the adjustment of the TV cable if you know how. If not, see if there is somebody close to you that knows how.
This article will tell you what the function of the TV cable is and why it needs to be adjusted properly.
GM TV Cable Adjustment Instructions
This article will tell you what the function of the TV cable is and why it needs to be adjusted properly.
GM TV Cable Adjustment Instructions
That is the best instructions I have seen yet on how to adjust the TV cable. Thanks so much. I have been wanting to do this and didn't want to mess with it since I had the tranny and torque converter done. I tried adjusting the TV once @ the track and apparently the cable did not lock into place properly and slipped all the way out. when I came off the line the car never shifted out of first and I hurt the tranny. That little mishap cost me $2600.00 bucks. I will follow these instructions and let you know the results.
Eric Stage I
TurboTweak Guy
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Now that you have a good O2 sensor, we can see that it's on the rich side. Since all your BLM's are low, I would reduce fuel pressure, say 3psi. Make more runs to check WOT O2 and knock again. If no knock, then use the WOT fuel chip adjustment to remove more fuel if necessary.
Option two, increase boost to lean it out (watch for knock).
Option two, increase boost to lean it out (watch for knock).
What octane fuel are you using? 91 is reality for pump gas in Oklahoma City so timing is set 2 degrees less than alky setting per Eric's recommendation. It sucks to have to drive 20 miles to pay a premium price of more than a $1.00 per gallon to get 93.
Before you adjust the TV cable, mark the current location. Bright red nail polish works great. One notch back toward the firewall can make a huge difference.
Runs are looking better every day.
Before you adjust the TV cable, mark the current location. Bright red nail polish works great. One notch back toward the firewall can make a huge difference.
Runs are looking better every day.
I adjusted fuel down to 40psi line off. left everything else the same for right now(1 adjustment @ a time). went for test drive. the car felt better and pulled more consistent through first and second. However I was not able to go any faster for a really good test. the weird thing was my Casper's knock gauge jumped right up into the mid yellow range halfway through first gear, but the power logger does not show any knock at all. It does show 2 knock counts but no knock retard. Should this be a concern if I had didn't have any KR PS. I always run Mobil 93oct.
http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b405/wb7354/IMG_0575.jpg?
http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b405/wb7354/IMG_0575.jpg?
Unless you see some recorded KR, I wouldn't be too concerned. Some of us just have "noisy" motors and you may have a little extra valve train noise. The real test will come when you make a WOT pull in 3rd and that's when you need to watch the knock sensor and your EGT.
Something to consider. I was at the same point you are with the same problems and concerns and about toasted my motor. Steve Wood recommended that I buy a WB and Eric's SD chip so I did and it's one of the best things Iv'e added to the car. I'm not going to say it is a set it and forget it deal but it is pretty darned close and the car runs smoother in everyday driving than it ever has.
Good WB and SD chip is about $400, about $60 less with 6.0 chip but you keep the MAF and Translator. I offset some of the cost by selling my MAF and Translator.
Something to consider. I was at the same point you are with the same problems and concerns and about toasted my motor. Steve Wood recommended that I buy a WB and Eric's SD chip so I did and it's one of the best things Iv'e added to the car. I'm not going to say it is a set it and forget it deal but it is pretty darned close and the car runs smoother in everyday driving than it ever has.
Good WB and SD chip is about $400, about $60 less with 6.0 chip but you keep the MAF and Translator. I offset some of the cost by selling my MAF and Translator.
I have no doubt that the WB and SD are the way to go. There are 2 reasons why I cannot do it right now.
1) I just bought the alky kit, chip and PL about 8 weeks ago and I probably only have driven about 3-400 miles since I installed them.
2) My wife has informed me that my GN budget is $0.00 I had an accident in Dec, '08 and in May of this year I was diagnosed with a serious illness. I have been out of work since the accident and at this point it is unlikely I can work in the future. I had a nice little stash of mad money but it has mysteriously disappeared. Or maybe I spent it on the car? I can't remember....LOL
I am going to try to go to the track Tues or Wed and get some good data. I will post it if I can go.
Oh by the way I was at a huge car show today and won a trophy for best Buick!!! Check the pics.
[URL="http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b405/wb7354/025.jpg"]http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b405/wb7354/025.jpg[/URL]
1) I just bought the alky kit, chip and PL about 8 weeks ago and I probably only have driven about 3-400 miles since I installed them.
2) My wife has informed me that my GN budget is $0.00 I had an accident in Dec, '08 and in May of this year I was diagnosed with a serious illness. I have been out of work since the accident and at this point it is unlikely I can work in the future. I had a nice little stash of mad money but it has mysteriously disappeared. Or maybe I spent it on the car? I can't remember....LOL
I am going to try to go to the track Tues or Wed and get some good data. I will post it if I can go.
Oh by the way I was at a huge car show today and won a trophy for best Buick!!! Check the pics.
[URL="http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b405/wb7354/025.jpg"]http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b405/wb7354/025.jpg[/URL]
I am sorry that you have had these problems. I pray that you retain your sense of humor and regain your health.
Congratulations on the trophy; you need to post some pictures of your car.
Look forward to seeing your results from the visit to the track.
Congratulations on the trophy; you need to post some pictures of your car.
Look forward to seeing your results from the visit to the track.
hotairgnx548
hotairgnx548
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2010
update on hot air alchol setup to Julio
Julio my new set up on 3.8 hot air 85 (2) aqua mist nozzels in rear of intake start spraying @15 psi boost . Launching @ 4400 rpm . At 20 psi larger nozzel in neck of turbo comes in. 26.8 deg 1&2 gear drops to 25.6 third gear. No knock retard .750 oxygen sensor reading at end of run. 25 lb boost 110 race fuel tt chip B/L 122 thruout run 7.20 1/8 11.41 @ 117 using over 20 oz methanol per run. John Bruce Bowling Green
Julio my new set up on 3.8 hot air 85 (2) aqua mist nozzels in rear of intake start spraying @15 psi boost . Launching @ 4400 rpm . At 20 psi larger nozzel in neck of turbo comes in. 26.8 deg 1&2 gear drops to 25.6 third gear. No knock retard .750 oxygen sensor reading at end of run. 25 lb boost 110 race fuel tt chip B/L 122 thruout run 7.20 1/8 11.41 @ 117 using over 20 oz methanol per run. John Bruce Bowling Green
Thanks for the nice thoughts and all the advice you guys are the best!!! I didn't get back to the dragstrip but I did go out and make a few test runs on the "track" I am concerned about the knock gauge though. The PL is not showing any KR but it does show knock counts and the knock gauge keeps lighting about midway through first gear. I re-set the TV cable. it seems as it was probably out of adjustment by 1-2 clicks to the soft side. It is shifting just a bit firmer. I also raised the fuel pressure from 40 psi line off to 42. At 40 it didn't seem to run very well. Overall it seems pretty good now. I am trying for the dragstrip tomorrow.
http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b405/wb7354/grand%20national/006.jpg
http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b405/wb7354/grand%20national/002.jpg
http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b405/wb7354/grand%20national/001.jpg
I am concerned about the knock gauge though. The PL is not showing any KR but it does show knock counts and the knock gauge keeps lighting about midway through first gear. I re-set the TV cable. it seems as it was probably out of adjustment by 1-2 clicks to the soft side. It is shifting just a bit firmer. I also raised the fuel pressure from 40 psi line off to 42. At 40 it didn't seem to run very well. Overall it seems pretty good now. I am trying for the dragstrip tomorrow.http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b405/wb7354/grand%20national/006.jpg
http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b405/wb7354/grand%20national/002.jpg
http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b405/wb7354/grand%20national/001.jpg
