Broken Drivers Side Header

Turbo Keith

TURBO KEITH
Joined
Sep 16, 2015
Hello Guys , after inspection I believe I have a cracked header between the last two cylinders on drivers side , where they all break , Question I have is how big a project is it to remove the header ? And I'm understanding a good welder can fix it . I'm bout to spray some PB blaster on the bolts today and try to remove sometime this week , Any thing I need to know before doing this ?
 
Nope pretty easy job Keith. Getting it welded up correctly is key. I’d replace with a TA replacement if it’s in the budget. I left mine on my motor when I dropped it of at Brian’s or I’d make ya a deal on it.
 
The first time it gets pulled can be a PIA. All the unnecessary studs on the rear fasteners require a deep well and/or an articulating ratchet wrench to remove.

Once those bolts spend some quality time with a hacksaw (or replaced with nice new ones) the job gets easy peasy. Pops right out the top.
 
Kirbans has a TA stock replacement for like 450$ , I may go that route but damn I don't wanna spend that kinda $$$$
 
Can some one tell me what kind these are ? I can buy them local
IMG_2388 (1).jpeg
 
They are either ATR or Kenne-bell. The longer drivers side header makes me think Kenne-bell, but in either case you will need a down pipe that will clear them. It would need to be an ATR, Kenne-bell or others listed “for aftermarket headers”.
The gbodyparts DP 3” is designed after the ATR and the GN1’s are listed as such.

It would be cheaper to get yours fixed.
 
Can some one tell me what kind these are ? I can buy them local View attachment 348575
Even those look better then your stockies they will not give you any performance bumps until you are well in the low 10sec power range . If you can get them for cheap I would say go this route and get a better down pipe . If the guy wants acouple gold bricks because he says they came off a GNX and they are super rare just tell him to shove it and get your stock ones welded. Up just my opinion that doesn’t mean much . Just keep on spoolin !!!
 
Even those look better then your stockies they will not give you any performance bumps until you are well in the low 10sec power range . If you can get them for cheap I would say go this route and get a better down pipe . If the guy wants acouple gold bricks because he says they came off a GNX and they are super rare just tell him to shove it and get your stock ones welded. Up just my opinion that doesn’t mean much . Just keep on spoolin !!!
he told me they are ATR and I have a TH down pipe but I'm probably not gonna go that way . get mine off and get it welded , I did have a member give me a good deal on a TA stock replacement . I do appreciate yalls help .
 
he told me they are ATR and I have a TH down pipe but I'm probably not gonna go that way . get mine off and get it welded , I did have a member give me a good deal on a TA stock replacement . I do appreciate yalls help .

Even Terry Houston and Mease Performance had DP’s for stock headers and a different one “ for aftermarket headers”.
The ones made for aftermarket headers almost and in some cases do rub the plastic inner fender.
 
Another question , I plan on getting it welded up when I get it removed but how can I be sure its welded completely ? Is there some pressure test ? And yes , I do tend to over think things
 
stick the flange side in some of that good ole Mississippi mud you got and blow in the end to see if its sealed :p
 
UPDATE , I got it off and it was cracked very bad , got it welded up ( 20$ ) and got installed today . went for a spin and gonna re tighten all the bolts . Not a bad job but taking off the tire helped alot . Thanks for the help as always
 
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